<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unbreakable6161 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mount that brain on the firewall! </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what quarter panels are for

 

my security system:

1. alarm(tilt,window,etc)
2. 4 different lug nuts for each wheel
3. kill switch
4. hood locks

and thats pretty much it, dont know if i should add some more just to be safer haha

 

my soon to be security system involves
1) Wheel boot for unknown areas
2) Rear tow hooked removed and set in an "unknown" location
3) Interior and Exterior wire harnesses shaved and tucked
4) Two independent alarm systems with wire harness's integrated into the vehicle harness's
5) Fuel, Ground, Ignition, and clutch kill switches
6) Wheel and clutch bar
7) Front tow hooks removed entirely due to them not being a necessity at all
8) Hidden hood latch release
9) Hood pins recquiring a key to unlock
10) Alarm stealth instal with alarms brains in two seperate locations
11) Alarm siren located inside and outside of the vehicle
12) Sensors that detect Tilt, glass, interior movement, exterior movement, And attempted forced entry into vehicle
13) Different locking lugs on all wheels
14) Vehicle immobilizer
15) Onboard GPS tracking DIY version
16) Secondary power backup for each alarm
Other ideas may pop into my head but that is about it right now It may seem like overkill but I cant get enough security in my head to give me piece of mind...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my soon to be security system involves
1) Wheel boot for unknown areas
2) Rear tow hooked removed and set in an "unknown" location
3) Interior and Exterior wire harnesses shaved and tucked
4) Two independent alarm systems with wire harness's integrated into the vehicle harness's
5) Fuel, Ground, Ignition, and clutch kill switches
6) Wheel and clutch bar
7) Front tow hooks removed entirely due to them not being a necessity at all
8) Hidden hood latch release
9) Hood pins recquiring a key to unlock
10) Alarm stealth instal with alarms brains in two seperate locations
11) Alarm siren located inside and outside of the vehicle
12) Sensors that detect Tilt, glass, interior movement, exterior movement, And attempted forced entry into vehicle
13) Different locking lugs on all wheels
14) Vehicle immobilizer
15) Onboard GPS tracking DIY version
16) Secondary power backup for each alarm
Other ideas may pop into my head but that is about it right now It may seem like overkill but I cant get enough security in my head to give me piece of mind...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

2) What good does that do? You don't need tow hooks to tow or push a car.
3) What good does this do?
4) Why would you get two alarm systems? It's a waste of money
5) Ground kill? Um. What? Clutch kill? A waste imo
7) See #2
8) Hidden or rerouted?
9) Ever heard of bold cutters?
14) Um what? What do you mean by this. Something different than your alarm?
15) Diy version? Cell phone thing?

 

I'm going to relocate my latch as well. I need to build a "guard" for the hood latch too. This will surely **** them off.

Your alarm setup sounds too crazy... 8520 pointed out most of what I find confusing/disagree with. You don't need a glass breakage and motion detector, doesn't make you hardcore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my soon to be security system involves
1) Wheel boot for unknown areas
2) Rear tow hooked removed and set in an "unknown" location
3) Interior and Exterior wire harnesses shaved and tucked
4) Two independent alarm systems with wire harness's integrated into the vehicle harness's
5) Fuel, Ground, Ignition, and clutch kill switches
6) Wheel and clutch bar
7) Front tow hooks removed entirely due to them not being a necessity at all
8) Hidden hood latch release
9) Hood pins recquiring a key to unlock
10) Alarm stealth instal with alarms brains in two seperate locations
11) Alarm siren located inside and outside of the vehicle
12) Sensors that detect Tilt, glass, interior movement, exterior movement, And attempted forced entry into vehicle
13) Different locking lugs on all wheels
14) Vehicle immobilizer
15) Onboard GPS tracking DIY version
16) Secondary power backup for each alarm
Other ideas may pop into my head but that is about it right now It may seem like overkill but I cant get enough security in my head to give me piece of mind...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

bro just buy a garage. sheesh! i would never ever ever go that far to protect the car. i'd just move if **** is THAT bad! where in NW jers is **** that bad? if you said newark, JC or 46 east then maybe, but NW?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unbreakable6161 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You don't need a glass breakage and motion detector, doesn't make you hardcore
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would never ever ever go that far to protect the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Neither would I. No car is worth that much hassle. A good stealth install on an alarm and gps are good enough to stop 99% of thieves imo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15) Diy version? Cell phone thing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

do you think an alarm and fuel kill switch will be enough? my car stays in the garage 95% of the time but when im at school thats a different story. i try to park in totally different sides of the parking lot every time so someone doesnt see my car in the same place everyday. what is a good alarm around 100-150 with the screens on the remotes that will page me

 

At school a paging alarm (with good install) is worth it's weight in gold!

 

Ground kill will make it so the car wont start at all even with the key...
The gps is the cell phone thing yes..
and stop giving me a hard time to each his own asshat I put two alarms in for my own reasons.
I live in NW NJ I am usually in germantown philly not a very nice place to have your car parked alone for extgended periods of time...
And why the expletive do I care if you wouldnt go through that much of a hassle I will and wont complain about it go have your period somewhere else *******.
BTW towhooks are not needed what so ever the car can be lifted/pulled by numerous other things on the vehicle tow hooks are just a helpful addon especially for thieves.

 

I wasn't being an *******, merely pointing out areas that are questionable as well as ones that seem redundant.

Ground kill on what? The ecu?

You still didn't answer the rest of my questions by the way.

 

2) I had them removed due to the fact that they are not needed and without them it will actually slow the process of them getting the car on the tow truck. I kept the rear but moved it to not easily accesed area because the rear is "needed" where I live for some reason....
3) Since they can still figure out wires that are loomed into the harness that are for the alarm I had the harnesses "tucked" so they arent as easily accesable and it makes it harder for them to get to if they can find them.
4) My reason for having two seperate alarms is for a few reasons.
a) If they find one and disable it there is still another that is active so they still have a nuisance
b) Each alarm has different sensors reading different things just asscurance for me that more areas are covered they are both set on the same frequency so one remote can be used.
5) I have the ground wires for the transmission and engine also loomed into the harness into the cabin where I have a "killswitch" that will disconnect it causing nothing even with a key. In which in case they do figure it out I have the fuel pump, clutch, and ignition all on kills also although I dont turn them all off at the same time I alternate so its always different.
7) See #2
8) Both I rerouted the cable as well as moving the release in the car to a different "hidden" location.
9) Bolt cutters wont really help they arent hoodpins per say they are locks that mount like the pins but the keyhole is flush with the surface of the hood.
14) It is a feature of one of the alarm systems like on the new vehicles if the chip isnt present the car wont start. Here if the alarm has been triggered the immobilizer will cause it not to start until I disable the alarm.
15) Yes I did the cellphone thing and hid it as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15) Yes I did the cellphone thing and hid it as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What cell phone thing? You mean just leaving a phone in the car? That will get you no where.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What cell phone thing? You mean just leaving a phone in the car? That will get you no where.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man people have to learn the hard way. Plus we can use the new thread in the future pointing out why we don't reccommend the cell phone thingie.

My setup for customers are dash pulled, Wire tucked into factory harness, main realy kill and relocated, Clifford 50.5x, clifford210c gps tracking, 520t back up battery, Siren in fender and special routed into the car, 1 mini peizo siren in the fender with main siren and one in the car, horn honk with horn relocated. Dash in stalled so it can not be pulled out. You will not seee anything period, you will not start the car period, You tow that car you will get busted period. The owner get the phone car in 2 mins and has the option of having the police do the job or himself. You can not get that car anywere without the owner know were the car is. You can't break the car down quick enough to defeat it with out the police or owner busting your ***. I go through diffrent install packages fitting the owner budget or needs.

 

Had to deduct points for that stupid ****. Don't drop back to junior high name calling. It doesn't impress anybody. Use your brain and put up a good counterargument.

If they get past a first alarm done correctly, the second wont be a problem either. The same tactics they used to defeat the one will defeat both. You don't have to go to the brain to beat an alarm. If you want to back up an alarm, use a real tracking device, physical locking device, a kill switch; something completely different than an alarm.

Cell phone for car security is a myth that has been disproven.

When you say "this is what my security system is going to be , it's the equivalent of me saying I'm going to put in an LS/VTEC twin turbo on N20 w/a tranny spool running Motec. Yeah right. Let's talk about what you have in the meantime.

 

The only reason I said that is because Im not finish by three items a boot, moving my hood latch, and a gps tracking device so dont tell me its not going to happen.
The second alarm may be as easy as the first is to bypass but welcome to the real world where every added minute they have to sit there figuring out what is what may end up saving my car if an attempt is made.
I was never told until now that the cellphone was a myth so thats news to me w/e im not paying a cellphone bill everymonth so i can follow myh car down the street when my gf drives it and have it tell me how fast she is going....

 

can someone please answer my question ? what alarm should i buy that has everything that youre talking about?

 

Most alarms come with one sensor, normally dual stage impact, you can add as many more as you like, some alarms will come with one extra dual stage sensor input, although not needed to add extra sensors.

Stick with a brand name alarm, from an authorized dealer, that has the features you want, [2way, extra sensor input, EXT functions and so on] add to the alarm the extra sensors you want, [I see no need for anything more then a good dual stage proximity sensor or tilt sensor] add a backup batt. or backup batt. siren.

For extra, redundant protection, add a stand alone, [not part of alarm] kill switch.

Brands I recommend...
Compustar
DEI, [Viper, Clifford, Avital]
Audiovox, [Audiovox, Prestige, Persuit]. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my soon to be security system involves
1) Wheel boot for unknown areas
2) Rear tow hooked removed and set in an "unknown" location
3) Interior and Exterior wire harnesses shaved and tucked
4) Two independent alarm systems with wire harness's integrated into the vehicle harness's
5) Fuel, Ground, Ignition, and clutch kill switches
6) Wheel and clutch bar
7) Front tow hooks removed entirely due to them not being a necessity at all
8) Hidden hood latch release
9) Hood pins recquiring a key to unlock
10) Alarm stealth instal with alarms brains in two seperate locations
11) Alarm siren located inside and outside of the vehicle
12) Sensors that detect Tilt, glass, interior movement, exterior movement, And attempted forced entry into vehicle
13) Different locking lugs on all wheels
14) Vehicle immobilizer
15) Onboard GPS tracking DIY version
16) Secondary power backup for each alarm
Other ideas may pop into my head but that is about it right now It may seem like overkill but I cant get enough security in my head to give me piece of mind...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

man is that a daily driver? At some point you have to just say oh well and buy a car that isnt a theft target

some of you guys must be putting a good 2500 into security i bet!

props for loving your honda tho

 

I look at car security like a hobby. There's so much that can be refined/modified/improved, takes alot of time. At least thats how I look at it.

I wonder what he's actually protecting. I hope he says R.

 

Unless he has more than one car, it's a 96 civic with a y8 swap

 

another thing i heard is cover upur vin in the windowpeople are going to dealers and getting keys made for ur car..i no they arnt supposed togive them out but some do.... and u could keep an angry pitbull in there to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastboy559 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another thing i heard is cover upur vin in the windowpeople are going to dealers and getting keys made for ur car..i no they arnt supposed togive them out but some do.... and u could keep an angry pitbull in there to</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get keys made through the dealership as long as you have the VIN. I've done it before. They do usually require proof of ownership and a photo ID.

Not that this won't stop someone with a friend who works at the dealership.

 

Blocking your VIN's is a no brainer