When doing a battery relocation to the trunk, you put an inline fuse (150 amp) by the battery.

Do you need to put in a fuse between the distribution block and the starter? This is for a 96 Prelude.

 

The distribution block should have a fuse for each power connection built into it. For the most protection in this kind of situation, I think it's better to run the lowest size fuse possible. So if the starter should only be drawing X amps, the fuse should be just a little over X amps eventhough the wire can handle more. So whatever your original starter fuse was, that is what you want to run for the starter connection to the distro.

Each power connection should have it's own fuse as close to the source of the power as possible. That includes not only the connection between the distribution block and the battery, but between each load source and it's connection to the distro block.

Sorry if I'm being repetitive but it's late and I want to make sure I'm making myself perfectly clear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So whatever your original starter fuse was</TD></TR></TABLE> what cars have you seen that have a fuse between the starter and the battery, every car ive ever seen has a big ol fat hot wire from the battery straight down to the starter. not trying to be a dick, im honestly curious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what cars have you seen that have a fuse between the starter and the battery, every car ive ever seen has a big ol fat hot wire from the battery straight down to the starter. not trying to be a dick, im honestly curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

None. However, there's generally no reason to fuse when the battery is in the engine bay... There's little resistance and not much chance for a short. When this guy puts his battery in the trunk, there's a bigger chance that something can chaff and short the wire, or even worse, a screw getting put through it at some point in the future.

Better to cover your *** with a fuse or two then to have a burnt wire or charred car because you didn't do it...

Just my thoughts... :shrugs:

 

weve done battery relocations before at my work. we run two hot wires. we connect one to all of the wires that were on the battery except the starter wire, and fuse it accordingly in the rear at the battery. then we take the second and run it straight to the starter unfused from the battery in the rear, but before we connect it to the battery we get a ford starter solenoid and mount in the rear (next to the fuse holder for the 1st power wire) and run the power through it. we also run another wire from the original starter solenoid to the ford solenoid in the rear to trigger it. this way the starter wire never has power on it unless your key is in the start position. and if it shorts out you let off the key and it cuts power. their may be better ways but this is the best weve come up with so far. the cars weve done were hotrods, and 400 amp fuses(we used an ammeter...it pulled 396 amps to start) for v8 starters were out of the question. if any one has better ideas im open to hear them because their still is probably a better way.

 

om hello, anybody here?

 

Thanks for all of the help. I really appreciate it. Got everything figured out.

 

I would suggest a Battery Kill switch also. Either near batter box or on outside of car because relocating batteries tends to burn them out quicker, the extended wires have a longer slow drain.

 

^ For real???

 

Ah, my bad. I was thinking about those big *** fuses next to the battery. My g/f hooked up her battery backwards and blew a big *** 80A. I don't know why I was thinking that's a starter fuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah, my bad. I was thinking about those big *** fuses next to the battery. My g/f hooked up her battery backwards and blew a big *** 80A. I don't know why I was thinking that's a starter fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sadly, I did the same thing years ago!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krillian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would suggest a Battery Kill switch also. Either near batter box or on outside of car because relocating batteries tends to burn them out quicker, the extended wires have a longer slow drain.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can anyone confirm this?

 

i would think not. there will be a slight voltage drop due to the length of wire, and a larger voltage drop under a high current load. but other than that should be ok. this has been done for decades, its not rocket science.