Battery Question
Well im looking to get a smaller battery for my car. Thing is im running an the Alpine MRP-F240 4 ch amp. I would like to know if this battery will crank my car and run this amp without descharging it before the alternator charges the battery.
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC680
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC680
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLD211 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Optima does make a civic size battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
thing is im looking to remove weight then add weight. the od. battery is less then 15 pounds and the optima or stinger batteries are 35-40 pounds. I think im just going to try it and see wha happens. If it dont work then i got an amp for sale. Thanks guys!
thing is im looking to remove weight then add weight. the od. battery is less then 15 pounds and the optima or stinger batteries are 35-40 pounds. I think im just going to try it and see wha happens. If it dont work then i got an amp for sale. Thanks guys!
Haven't heard from you in a while romoracing, it makes no diff what size the batt, is, if you consistently draw more power then the alt. can provide, by whatever load, be it an amp or a full set of "rally lights" the batt. will eventually draw down.
Also do not confuse CA, [cranking amps] CCA, [cold cranking amps] and RC, [reserve capacity].
CA= is the amount of power a batt. can supply at 32 deg. F.
CCA= is the amount of power a batt. can supply at 0 deg. F.
Both CA and CCA are an indication of how good the batt. is in starting the car.
RC= how long, at 80 deg. the batt. can deliver 25A before voltage drops to below 10.5V.
I have said it before and I will say it again, there is no way to add more power, [amps] to your car other then a bigger alt., you can extend the time you can run a load that draws more currant then the alt. can supply, you can install batt. that are better for one thing or another, EG: a "deep cycle" batt. is better if you plan on drawing the batt. down low a lot, [they have the ability to withstand multiple discharges and charging] a "regular" batt. can't, and anybody that has left the lights on and killed a regular batt. once or twice, knows it will no longer hold a charge.
Also remember this, the batt. in the car is there to start the car, once it's running, the alt. supplies all the power a car needs, and an alt. is not the best way to recharge a dead batt. [that's why GOD make batt. chargers].
Your amp comes with a 25A fuse, if I remember, so it never uses more then that, and that would be only at full blast with a continuous 2V input signal, however, music is dynamic so I would bet, even when turned up, the average draw is more like 10A or 15A, the amp is 4 x 40W rms into a 4 ohm load, a total of 160W rms, peak power is only 300W I think the batt you are looking at, will work fine, but then you could probably just as well get away with the stock one, although upgrading your batt. can't hurt anything, and by all indications it will handle a lot more abuse then the stock one could, I mean, good enough for a tank, should be great for a Honda.
94
Also do not confuse CA, [cranking amps] CCA, [cold cranking amps] and RC, [reserve capacity].
CA= is the amount of power a batt. can supply at 32 deg. F.
CCA= is the amount of power a batt. can supply at 0 deg. F.
Both CA and CCA are an indication of how good the batt. is in starting the car.
RC= how long, at 80 deg. the batt. can deliver 25A before voltage drops to below 10.5V.
I have said it before and I will say it again, there is no way to add more power, [amps] to your car other then a bigger alt., you can extend the time you can run a load that draws more currant then the alt. can supply, you can install batt. that are better for one thing or another, EG: a "deep cycle" batt. is better if you plan on drawing the batt. down low a lot, [they have the ability to withstand multiple discharges and charging] a "regular" batt. can't, and anybody that has left the lights on and killed a regular batt. once or twice, knows it will no longer hold a charge.
Also remember this, the batt. in the car is there to start the car, once it's running, the alt. supplies all the power a car needs, and an alt. is not the best way to recharge a dead batt. [that's why GOD make batt. chargers].
Your amp comes with a 25A fuse, if I remember, so it never uses more then that, and that would be only at full blast with a continuous 2V input signal, however, music is dynamic so I would bet, even when turned up, the average draw is more like 10A or 15A, the amp is 4 x 40W rms into a 4 ohm load, a total of 160W rms, peak power is only 300W I think the batt you are looking at, will work fine, but then you could probably just as well get away with the stock one, although upgrading your batt. can't hurt anything, and by all indications it will handle a lot more abuse then the stock one could, I mean, good enough for a tank, should be great for a Honda.
94
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Thank you very much!
Like always your info was great. I was about to say hey its good for a tank it should be good for a honda.lol, I dont blast my volume. I cant sit in the car if I do. Yeah, Its been a while. Ive just been very busy. I go work in the morning, school in the afternoon and then its homework, shopping and girlfriend in the evening. But im a guy and most of us get bored in school so I log onto the internet during class or like right now im at starbucks and I get some free time.
Well it was great hearing from you again. Ill drop in now and then when I got some time. Lol, I think after the hoilday's. Again thanks for your help all you guys~!
Like always your info was great. I was about to say hey its good for a tank it should be good for a honda.lol, I dont blast my volume. I cant sit in the car if I do. Yeah, Its been a while. Ive just been very busy. I go work in the morning, school in the afternoon and then its homework, shopping and girlfriend in the evening. But im a guy and most of us get bored in school so I log onto the internet during class or like right now im at starbucks and I get some free time.
Well it was great hearing from you again. Ill drop in now and then when I got some time. Lol, I think after the hoilday's. Again thanks for your help all you guys~!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have said it before and I will say it again, there is no way to add more power, [amps] to your car other then a bigger alt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The way you say things is what makes them wrong. Power is what? V*I=P correct?
Adding a second battery definetly adds more "power" to you car. The car is just not able to provide those high current levels for extended periods of time. If your going to talk technically at least try to be accurate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and an alt. is not the best way to recharge a dead batt. [that's why GOD make batt. chargers].</TD></TR></TABLE> That depends on how dead the battery is. Not all battery chargers are created equal.
I aslo garantee that battery is not used in a tank. It may be "based" on the same technology but no where near the same battery. It is also highly doubtful a tank uses 12v. Probably more like 48v.
The way you say things is what makes them wrong. Power is what? V*I=P correct?
Adding a second battery definetly adds more "power" to you car. The car is just not able to provide those high current levels for extended periods of time. If your going to talk technically at least try to be accurate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and an alt. is not the best way to recharge a dead batt. [that's why GOD make batt. chargers].</TD></TR></TABLE> That depends on how dead the battery is. Not all battery chargers are created equal.
I aslo garantee that battery is not used in a tank. It may be "based" on the same technology but no where near the same battery. It is also highly doubtful a tank uses 12v. Probably more like 48v.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The way you say things is what makes them wrong. Power is what? V*I=P correct?
Adding a second battery definetly adds more "power" to you car. The car is just not able to provide those high current levels for extended periods of time. If your going to talk technically at least try to be accurate.</TD></TR></TABLE> Your right. technically I'm wrong, but then most of the time I'm not speaking to engineers, You know as well as I do, the best and proper way to get more current, [rate of flow of electricity, "amps"] in your car, is installing a bigger alt.
I know you don't think adding another batt. is the best way.
So I will rephrase, IMO the best way to add more current to your car is to install an alt. with more current output.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That depends on how dead the battery is. Not all battery chargers are created equal.</TD></TR></TABLE> Technically what does that mean?
I can't think of a better way to say, alt. should not be used, [and a were not designed] to recharge a dead, [and when I say dead, I assume everyone can understand DEAD] batt. and a batt. charger should be used, or is it just that you think there is something not accurate about the statement?
Also I never said that that batt was used in a tank, "good enough for a tank, should be great for a Honda" is a response to the links reference to "Military Grade" technology.
So other then just wanting to flame me because I don't use engineer "speak" when I want to get my point across to non engineers, how exactly does your post help romoracing with his question?
Also, other then the words "there is no way" in that one line in that paragraph that you think is technically wrong, and does not make it plain and understandable to most anybody that the proper way to get more current into your car is with a bigger alt., you asked "power is what" and you show V*I=P, I bet a lot of people on H/T understand it better as HP, as in how much horse power does your car have, or watts, how much power does that amp have, I'd be willing to bet that more people understand what a powerful fart is then know what V*I=P is.
So excuse me for not being technical, and dead on accurate when I try and help people by explaining things in a way I think they will understand.
94
The way you say things is what makes them wrong. Power is what? V*I=P correct?
Adding a second battery definetly adds more "power" to you car. The car is just not able to provide those high current levels for extended periods of time. If your going to talk technically at least try to be accurate.</TD></TR></TABLE> Your right. technically I'm wrong, but then most of the time I'm not speaking to engineers, You know as well as I do, the best and proper way to get more current, [rate of flow of electricity, "amps"] in your car, is installing a bigger alt.
I know you don't think adding another batt. is the best way.
So I will rephrase, IMO the best way to add more current to your car is to install an alt. with more current output.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That depends on how dead the battery is. Not all battery chargers are created equal.</TD></TR></TABLE> Technically what does that mean?
I can't think of a better way to say, alt. should not be used, [and a were not designed] to recharge a dead, [and when I say dead, I assume everyone can understand DEAD] batt. and a batt. charger should be used, or is it just that you think there is something not accurate about the statement?
Also I never said that that batt was used in a tank, "good enough for a tank, should be great for a Honda" is a response to the links reference to "Military Grade" technology.
So other then just wanting to flame me because I don't use engineer "speak" when I want to get my point across to non engineers, how exactly does your post help romoracing with his question?
Also, other then the words "there is no way" in that one line in that paragraph that you think is technically wrong, and does not make it plain and understandable to most anybody that the proper way to get more current into your car is with a bigger alt., you asked "power is what" and you show V*I=P, I bet a lot of people on H/T understand it better as HP, as in how much horse power does your car have, or watts, how much power does that amp have, I'd be willing to bet that more people understand what a powerful fart is then know what V*I=P is.
So excuse me for not being technical, and dead on accurate when I try and help people by explaining things in a way I think they will understand.
94
None of my posts are evey meant to flame anyone. I think you just need to think through what you say sometimes. No one expects anyone to be 100% correct all the time.
You can add more sustainable current by adding an alternator.
First thing I would add would be a cap. Then go get my current draw measured. If the RMS current draw exceeds the output of the alternator then I would upgrade it. There is a reason why I say RMS current draw. Why?
An alternator charges at a regulated 14.4 volts. Some battery chargers are unregulated and who knows what the voltage or current is. Some charges can overcharge your battery which is also harmful.
Tank statement had nothing to do with you.
A larger alternator will use more HP and slow you down more then adding a heavier battery. Most people dont need more static power they need dynamic power. Music is dynamic lights would be static. There is no generic do this and it fixes all your problems to any power systems. You need to know the needs of the user first.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 2:22 PM 11/4/2005
You can add more sustainable current by adding an alternator.
First thing I would add would be a cap. Then go get my current draw measured. If the RMS current draw exceeds the output of the alternator then I would upgrade it. There is a reason why I say RMS current draw. Why?
An alternator charges at a regulated 14.4 volts. Some battery chargers are unregulated and who knows what the voltage or current is. Some charges can overcharge your battery which is also harmful.
Tank statement had nothing to do with you.
A larger alternator will use more HP and slow you down more then adding a heavier battery. Most people dont need more static power they need dynamic power. Music is dynamic lights would be static. There is no generic do this and it fixes all your problems to any power systems. You need to know the needs of the user first.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 2:22 PM 11/4/2005
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deeksmooth
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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