i've alwaise had my sound system hooked up with subs and all until about 6 months ago. i took it out just because. then i did a motor swap and now that the swap is done i put the sound system back in and it acts real wierd. whenever i have the amp and sub hooked up it like makes the car kind of struggle. like everytime i switch tracks there is a loud noise and the lights dim and everything. plus the sub looks like its being sucked in. its the same old setup so i dont know whats wrong. could it be a bad battery? its never been changed and its a 2000 civic

 

bump anyone know?

 

bump for the nite

 

possible the engine that you swapped in wants more current than the old one. How old is the battery?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKtypeRhaTcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've alwaise had my sound system hooked up with subs and all until about 6 months ago. i took it out just because. then i did a motor swap and now that the swap is done i put the sound system back in and it acts real wierd. whenever i have the amp and sub hooked up it like makes the car kind of struggle. like everytime i switch tracks there is a loud noise and the lights dim and everything. plus the sub looks like its being sucked in. its the same old setup so i dont know whats wrong. could it be a bad battery? its never been changed and its a 2000 civic </TD></TR></TABLE> It sounds like you have a problem with short somplace, if it only happens when the sub amp is hooked up, I would say its in the sub amp. 94

 

i checked and theres no shortages. it also blew the fuse in my amp, so i took it out already. my battery is almost 5 years old, should i get like an optima battery?

 

the battery is pretty damn old. thats' about the life expectancy of those kinds of batteries.

If you get an optima battery, get the red top for starting. You do not need the yellow top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the battery is pretty damn old. thats' about the life expectancy of those kinds of batteries.

If you get an optima battery, get the red top for starting. You do not need the yellow top. </TD></TR></TABLE>Ditto that . 5 years is old for a batt., go to a batt. shop and get a load and grav. check done, most places do it for free, they will be able to tell you what the output of the alt. is, what cond. the batt. is in, and if there is a draw on the batt. when car is off. 94

 

if you want your system booming without needing a capacitor i recommend the yellow top optima

 

thanks everyone

 

Don't they only make a yellow top for Hondas? But if they did make a red top, the price difference is 10 bucks from sears, so just go with a yellow.

When you did your swap, did you make sure that all your grounds were making nice, solid contact with the chassis?

If you replace your battery but still have the same problem, maybe you should upgrade all your ground wires to at least 8ga wire, or even 4ga wire if you're running a high wattage stereo system.

 

not sure if they have a red top, but if they do, i would get it over the yellow top. That is if you're using it as a primary battery. if the optima is going to be used as a secondary battery for reserve, yellow top is a better choice.

 

when you did the motor swap did you go bigger? and if so did you go with a bigger alternator? you might need a new battery depending on where your from. southern california where its never cold then i would say no. Lil hole in the wall Montana where it gets cold then i would say yeah.

I am with that one guy on saying when they did the motor swap did they tighten all the connections for wiring. might wanna start there.