audio wiring guru's HELP!!!!!
my set up is as follows. (simple)
2 channel amp powering sub.
4 channel amp powering front and rear.
mounted to back of rear seat with distribution block.
common ground.
(alot of reading I know but i would greatly appreciate any help)
so my situation is as follows. Ive had the system working for over a year with no problem. (just some background info)I got into an accident a few months ago got hit in th rear. i got it fixed and my system was fine for a while. I have a water leak in my trunk now. I realized it recently since it has been raining alot in NY.
anyhow. one day i go to listen to my music and notice that my speakers aren't working but my bass is. so i check the distributor fuse and sure enough the 4 channel side is blown. so i take the other fuse and put it the 4 channel side and next thing i know my amp is smoking. not sure what happend. but when i opened it. i saw that one of the channels got fried. SO expletive. i got another amp.
I intalled the new amp. (an audiobahn) and i was happy to find that it worked. however a few days later my fuse blew again (same one) so i was affraid to replace it.
so today i decide i want to check to make sure there arent any exposed wires. and that the water isnt shorting something. I rebutted a few things but didnt see any obvious water problem. so after that I was cofident enough to put the fuse back in, the fuse just blew as soon as it made contact. It was getting late and dark so I didnt have a chance to check further. I Just dont understand what could have happened. i dont understand since the 2 channel amp was still working and they are using the same power source and ground.
side note: my distribution block uses a pair of 30 amp fuses. my old amp worked fine that way till it blew. but the new amp has 2 25 amp fuses. would i need to use a higher amp fuse could that be why it blows each time. I thought not since it did work for a while with a 30amp. till that fuse blew.
- The remote wire is shared too.
[b]- Can the speaker wires short the amp?? maybe they're crossed somewher down the line.
- Could my ground wire be bad?
- If there is a short where could it be?
- Im sharing the 12V with the block and the same ground point. where else could i have a short? my other amp seems fine.
2 channel amp powering sub.
4 channel amp powering front and rear.
mounted to back of rear seat with distribution block.
common ground.
(alot of reading I know but i would greatly appreciate any help)
so my situation is as follows. Ive had the system working for over a year with no problem. (just some background info)I got into an accident a few months ago got hit in th rear. i got it fixed and my system was fine for a while. I have a water leak in my trunk now. I realized it recently since it has been raining alot in NY.
anyhow. one day i go to listen to my music and notice that my speakers aren't working but my bass is. so i check the distributor fuse and sure enough the 4 channel side is blown. so i take the other fuse and put it the 4 channel side and next thing i know my amp is smoking. not sure what happend. but when i opened it. i saw that one of the channels got fried. SO expletive. i got another amp.
I intalled the new amp. (an audiobahn) and i was happy to find that it worked. however a few days later my fuse blew again (same one) so i was affraid to replace it.
so today i decide i want to check to make sure there arent any exposed wires. and that the water isnt shorting something. I rebutted a few things but didnt see any obvious water problem. so after that I was cofident enough to put the fuse back in, the fuse just blew as soon as it made contact. It was getting late and dark so I didnt have a chance to check further. I Just dont understand what could have happened. i dont understand since the 2 channel amp was still working and they are using the same power source and ground.
side note: my distribution block uses a pair of 30 amp fuses. my old amp worked fine that way till it blew. but the new amp has 2 25 amp fuses. would i need to use a higher amp fuse could that be why it blows each time. I thought not since it did work for a while with a 30amp. till that fuse blew.
- The remote wire is shared too.
[b]- Can the speaker wires short the amp?? maybe they're crossed somewher down the line.
- Could my ground wire be bad?
- If there is a short where could it be?
- Im sharing the 12V with the block and the same ground point. where else could i have a short? my other amp seems fine.
Your problem is a shorted speaker it speaker wire/s for the front or rear speakers, also, sad to say, your new amp is also toast, if the fuse blows as soon as you put it in, the problem is not your power or ground, unless the power lead the runs from the dist./fuse block is shorting to chassis between the block and the amp.
Try this, disconnect all 4 speaker wires from amp, and if you are sure the power wire does not have a short , install the fuse, if it blows amp is toast, use a multimeter to check the speaker wires for short to ground, if you don't have a meter, you can do a simple test, using a 9V batt, ground one terminal the the chassis, and one by one touch each speaker wire to the other term., [8 of them] if you hear a speaker "pop" you have a short in that speaker wire, the short is in the wire you are not touching to the batt., you can also check and see if both wires have a minor short, [pinched wire] if you touch both wires, [of one speaker] to both batt. term., [one to each term.] the speaker will "pop", if one speaker, [or more] does not "pop" or the "pop" is significantly quieter, then the others you have a shorted speaker lead or a short in the speaker itself, you can do this with a 1.5V batt. just harder to hear.
BTW if you work on your own car and you don't have a multimeter, you can get one for under $20 or a good one for under $50 at radio shack http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch or the good one http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch a real good on will cost you $200 + but the best they have is http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch but the $20 one will do everything you would need it for .
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Try this, disconnect all 4 speaker wires from amp, and if you are sure the power wire does not have a short , install the fuse, if it blows amp is toast, use a multimeter to check the speaker wires for short to ground, if you don't have a meter, you can do a simple test, using a 9V batt, ground one terminal the the chassis, and one by one touch each speaker wire to the other term., [8 of them] if you hear a speaker "pop" you have a short in that speaker wire, the short is in the wire you are not touching to the batt., you can also check and see if both wires have a minor short, [pinched wire] if you touch both wires, [of one speaker] to both batt. term., [one to each term.] the speaker will "pop", if one speaker, [or more] does not "pop" or the "pop" is significantly quieter, then the others you have a shorted speaker lead or a short in the speaker itself, you can do this with a 1.5V batt. just harder to hear.
BTW if you work on your own car and you don't have a multimeter, you can get one for under $20 or a good one for under $50 at radio shack http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch or the good one http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch a real good on will cost you $200 + but the best they have is http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch but the $20 one will do everything you would need it for .
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Did you happen to replace your door speakers with aftermarket ones? Did you remove the plastic rain gaurds in order to make the speaker fit?
I think your amp is toast. Get an ohm meter and measure the resistance through the wire. This will tell you if you have a short. If you have a leak I would take that back to the body shop right away. They could be responsible for all the damage if it wasn't repaired correctly.
I think your amp is toast. Get an ohm meter and measure the resistance through the wire. This will tell you if you have a short. If you have a leak I would take that back to the body shop right away. They could be responsible for all the damage if it wasn't repaired correctly.
Damn man I really hope i didnt fry it. im sure you guys are right about the speaker wires being crossed, I just didnt think that it would be that.
I also noticed that when I tried to directly connect the amp to the 12v. the protection LED on the amp went on. The fuses on the amp never blew either. (2 25 amp fuses)
It's raining here again so I wont be able to check again till next weekend. Im gonna be screwed if i need to get another amp. I can afford it. does anyone know if there a waranty for something like this. i havent even registered the amp.
I also noticed that when I tried to directly connect the amp to the 12v. the protection LED on the amp went on. The fuses on the amp never blew either. (2 25 amp fuses)
It's raining here again so I wont be able to check again till next weekend. Im gonna be screwed if i need to get another amp. I can afford it. does anyone know if there a waranty for something like this. i havent even registered the amp.
LOL blowing an amp because of shorted speaker leads isn't exactly a manufacturers defect, take it back where you got it, tell them it never worked, fix the problem in the car first, they will probably want to check, I would
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you happen to replace your door speakers with aftermarket ones? Did you remove the plastic rain gaurds in order to make the speaker fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The reason I ask is water does get down inside your door panels. If you did like most people you just removed the plastic rain gaurds thinking they were nothing special and slapped a new bigger set of speakers in the door. This works great unitl the first time it rains. Then the speaker gets soaked in water. Check your door speakers.
The reason I ask is water does get down inside your door panels. If you did like most people you just removed the plastic rain gaurds thinking they were nothing special and slapped a new bigger set of speakers in the door. This works great unitl the first time it rains. Then the speaker gets soaked in water. Check your door speakers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason I ask is water does get down inside your door panels. If you did like most people you just removed the plastic rain gaurds thinking they were nothing special and slapped a new bigger set of speakers in the door. This works great unitl the first time it rains. Then the speaker gets soaked in water. Check your door speakers.</TD></TR></TABLE> Or worse, every time you wash the car, that hot soapy water isn't doing the speakers any good, rain water is "soft" generally clean and although not good for a speaker, when it dries it does not leave very much behind, but when soapy water dries, it leaves CHUNKS behind.
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The reason I ask is water does get down inside your door panels. If you did like most people you just removed the plastic rain gaurds thinking they were nothing special and slapped a new bigger set of speakers in the door. This works great unitl the first time it rains. Then the speaker gets soaked in water. Check your door speakers.</TD></TR></TABLE> Or worse, every time you wash the car, that hot soapy water isn't doing the speakers any good, rain water is "soft" generally clean and although not good for a speaker, when it dries it does not leave very much behind, but when soapy water dries, it leaves CHUNKS behind.
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Im dreading to find out that the damn amp is blown. i would think the the reason the fuses are on the amp is to protect from things like this. i checked them and the were in tact.
It would really suck if its busted again. I wont be able to afford another one for a while not to mention i just bought this one.
It would really suck if its busted again. I wont be able to afford another one for a while not to mention i just bought this one.
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