Another 'how does this setup sound' thread
After about 2 weeks of reading threads and shopping for parts this is what i've come up with:
Head Unit - Alpine 9825
Fronts - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R companants
Rear - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R Coaxial
Amp - Hifonics TX8805 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...14797)
This would be my first attempt at a sound system, and im still a noob but let me know what you think
Head Unit - Alpine 9825
Fronts - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R companants
Rear - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R Coaxial
Amp - Hifonics TX8805 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...14797)
This would be my first attempt at a sound system, and im still a noob but let me know what you think
Should sound great imo.
Don't expect it to be too bassy though (no sub). If I were you, I'd rather get a sub and power it with the amp's 2 rear chnls bridged and wire the 2 rear coaxs to the HU, since you wouldn't want too much sound coming from the back anyway, unless u're used to listening to live music facing the back of the hall
Also be sure to cut the front with the HPF at 60-80Hz so they don't get overloaded with the frequencies they were not designed to play, and the rear at ~150Hz so that you don't get too much of mid-bass coming from the back.
Dynamatting (or any-other-brand-matting) the front doors imo is a must.
Good luck!
Don't expect it to be too bassy though (no sub). If I were you, I'd rather get a sub and power it with the amp's 2 rear chnls bridged and wire the 2 rear coaxs to the HU, since you wouldn't want too much sound coming from the back anyway, unless u're used to listening to live music facing the back of the hall
Also be sure to cut the front with the HPF at 60-80Hz so they don't get overloaded with the frequencies they were not designed to play, and the rear at ~150Hz so that you don't get too much of mid-bass coming from the back.
Dynamatting (or any-other-brand-matting) the front doors imo is a must.
Good luck!
im planning on throwing in some subs later on down the road when I get more money, id probably use same type of amp (except mono or 2 way obviously) and type R subs.
Would that HU be able to power the rear speakers ok? I already own the rear type R speakers and they are rated at 40watt RMS while the HU is rated at 18watt RMS.
Would that HU be able to power the rear speakers ok? I already own the rear type R speakers and they are rated at 40watt RMS while the HU is rated at 18watt RMS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboDaveR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would that HU be able to power the rear speakers ok? I already own the rear type R speakers and they are rated at 40watt RMS while the HU is rated at 18watt RMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You see, Watts- electrical or mechanical power is not a measurement of perceived loudness. More watts won't necessarily sound louder to you. It all depends on a frequency. For instance a 1 kHz tone will sound (to a human ear) much louder than a 100Hz tone, given the same power and played by the same speaker. Therefore if a pair of rear speakers only plays the mid-range, 18W will sound loud enough.
An easy way to set a volume for the rear pair is to turn them all the way down and then start increasing the volume slowly. As soon as you start feeling that the sound's changing somehow that would be a good time to stop. As I said, unless you want to screw up the sound image there should be no sound coming from the back (perceived sound, not absolute). In general, in correctly built systems the rear pair is only used to add some "air", some additional space to the overall sound, while the main work is done by the front components.
I have a very similar setup- Alpine 9815, TypeR components front, TypeS coaxials in the back (tweeters removed), TypeR 12” sub. Soundstream Van Gogh 4 ch. amp (amazingly sounding amp, btw) is driving the front and the sub while the rear pair is driven by the HU and only play within a 200Hz-2 kHz range. I’m absolutely happy with the sound and the only improvement I can think of is a 3-way components in the front (just started saving for Focal’s polykevlar set)
On the other hand if you don’t really care about the sound image, then just ignore. Try different configurations and listen, I’m sure you’ll find something that would sound best to you.
Would that HU be able to power the rear speakers ok? I already own the rear type R speakers and they are rated at 40watt RMS while the HU is rated at 18watt RMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You see, Watts- electrical or mechanical power is not a measurement of perceived loudness. More watts won't necessarily sound louder to you. It all depends on a frequency. For instance a 1 kHz tone will sound (to a human ear) much louder than a 100Hz tone, given the same power and played by the same speaker. Therefore if a pair of rear speakers only plays the mid-range, 18W will sound loud enough.
An easy way to set a volume for the rear pair is to turn them all the way down and then start increasing the volume slowly. As soon as you start feeling that the sound's changing somehow that would be a good time to stop. As I said, unless you want to screw up the sound image there should be no sound coming from the back (perceived sound, not absolute). In general, in correctly built systems the rear pair is only used to add some "air", some additional space to the overall sound, while the main work is done by the front components.
I have a very similar setup- Alpine 9815, TypeR components front, TypeS coaxials in the back (tweeters removed), TypeR 12” sub. Soundstream Van Gogh 4 ch. amp (amazingly sounding amp, btw) is driving the front and the sub while the rear pair is driven by the HU and only play within a 200Hz-2 kHz range. I’m absolutely happy with the sound and the only improvement I can think of is a 3-way components in the front (just started saving for Focal’s polykevlar set)
On the other hand if you don’t really care about the sound image, then just ignore. Try different configurations and listen, I’m sure you’ll find something that would sound best to you.
BTW here's a quote from the FAQ:
What is "rear fill", and how do I effectively use it?
Rear fill refers to the presence of depth and ambiance in music. A properly designed system using two channels will reproduce original rear fill on the source without rear high frequency drivers. Since recordings are made in two channels, that is all you will need to reproduce it. What is captured at the recording session (coincident pair mics, Blumlein mic patterns, etc.) by a two channel mic array will capture the so called rear fill or ambiance. Many of the winning IASCA vehicles have no rear high frequency drivers. Also a lot of this has to do with system tuning. If rear high frequency drivers are added, however, the power level of the rear fill speakers should be lower than that of the front speakers, or else you will lose your front-primary staging, which is not what you want (when was the last time you went to a concert and stood backwards?). The proper amount of amplification for rear fill speakers is the point where you can just barely detect their presence while sitting in the front seat. Separates are not a requirement for rear fill; in fact, you may be better of with a pair of coaxial speakers, as separates may throw off your staging.
What is "rear fill", and how do I effectively use it?
Rear fill refers to the presence of depth and ambiance in music. A properly designed system using two channels will reproduce original rear fill on the source without rear high frequency drivers. Since recordings are made in two channels, that is all you will need to reproduce it. What is captured at the recording session (coincident pair mics, Blumlein mic patterns, etc.) by a two channel mic array will capture the so called rear fill or ambiance. Many of the winning IASCA vehicles have no rear high frequency drivers. Also a lot of this has to do with system tuning. If rear high frequency drivers are added, however, the power level of the rear fill speakers should be lower than that of the front speakers, or else you will lose your front-primary staging, which is not what you want (when was the last time you went to a concert and stood backwards?). The proper amount of amplification for rear fill speakers is the point where you can just barely detect their presence while sitting in the front seat. Separates are not a requirement for rear fill; in fact, you may be better of with a pair of coaxial speakers, as separates may throw off your staging.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboDaveR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After about 2 weeks of reading threads and shopping for parts this is what i've come up with:
Head Unit - Alpine 9825
Fronts - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R companants
Rear - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R Coaxial
Amp - Hifonics TX8805 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...14797)
This would be my first attempt at a sound system, and im still a noob but let me know what you think
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Head Unit - Alpine 9825
Fronts - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R companants
Rear - 6 1/2 Alpine Type R Coaxial
Amp - Hifonics TX8805 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...14797)
This would be my first attempt at a sound system, and im still a noob but let me know what you think
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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