Alarm install help
I'm at the part of connecting to the door trigger, checking for continuity. I'm supposed to tap into the light green/red and I found it (lots of insulation). When I open the driver door it is at 787 ish, and the passenger door open it says 87. but when the doors are closed it reads nothing on the display. I don't have my instructions but I used this instead.
http://mechatronics.mech.north....html
Is this the right wire?
http://mechatronics.mech.north....html
Is this the right wire?
Light green/red is the right color, I would check it with voltage though. Since it is a negative trigger, your meter shoud read i'd say 10-12 volts and when you open the door the voltage shoud drop to 0 volts. The wire is in the driver kick area. It shouldn't be a wire with a lot of insulation, I'd say that it is about an 18 or 20 guage wire, but check to make sure anyway. I hope this helps.
He sounds like he has the meter set to the wrong setting or he has the wrong type of battery in the meter. You need to set your meter to 20 DC.
Just to clarify what ****-breath is saying, you'll have the red probe connected to constant 12v and the black probe connected to the door trigger. Since it is a negative trigger, the wire will ground when the door is opened. So the meter will show 0V DC with the door closed and 12V DC when it's opened.
Another way of testing it (that I have in the writeup) is to set the meter to continuity, ground the black probe to the chassis, and touch the red wire to the door trigger. With the door closed, the wire is open so there is no continuity to ground. Open the door and your meter should go to infinity (0) and beep if your meter beeps.
Check it by opening the passenger side door, not the driver's. On Hondas (up to 01+ 4 doors), if it detects the passenger door, it detects all doors.
Just to clarify what ****-breath is saying, you'll have the red probe connected to constant 12v and the black probe connected to the door trigger. Since it is a negative trigger, the wire will ground when the door is opened. So the meter will show 0V DC with the door closed and 12V DC when it's opened.
Another way of testing it (that I have in the writeup) is to set the meter to continuity, ground the black probe to the chassis, and touch the red wire to the door trigger. With the door closed, the wire is open so there is no continuity to ground. Open the door and your meter should go to infinity (0) and beep if your meter beeps.
Check it by opening the passenger side door, not the driver's. On Hondas (up to 01+ 4 doors), if it detects the passenger door, it detects all doors.
I have it set correctly, because when i simply touch the two ends together it beeps. It just doesn't do what it should when i open the door (passenger side goes to 87 and driver to 647)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just to clarify what ****-breath is saying, you'll have the red probe connected to constant 12v and the black probe connected to the door trigger. Since it is a negative trigger, the wire will ground when the door is opened. So the meter will show 0V DC with the door closed and 12V DC when it's opened.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not what I was saying at all, with the meter on VDC, connect the red probe to the suspected wire and the black probe to chassis ground. With the door closed the meter will read 10-12v and when you open the door, it will read 0 volts.
Suspended your right its just the opposite of what I was saying thats all.
That's not what I was saying at all, with the meter on VDC, connect the red probe to the suspected wire and the black probe to chassis ground. With the door closed the meter will read 10-12v and when you open the door, it will read 0 volts.
Suspended your right its just the opposite of what I was saying thats all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95civicdx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have it set correctly, because when i simply touch the two ends together it beeps. It just doesn't do what it should when i open the door (passenger side goes to 87 and driver to 647)</TD></TR></TABLE> The door trigger lead in 99-00 Civics can be found in the OEM alarm plug, [along with other leads you may need like trunk/hatch] it is a green plug the the right of steering column, if no OEM alarm came with the car, the green plug will be taped onto a wire harness with blue tape.
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
94
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The door trigger lead in 99-00 Civics can be found in the OEM alarm plug, [along with other leads you may need like trunk/hatch] it is a green plug the the right of steering column, if no OEM alarm came with the car, the green plug will be taped onto a wire harness with blue tape.
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
fcm, is this possible for 96-98 Civics as well?
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3
94</TD></TR></TABLE>fcm, is this possible for 96-98 Civics as well?
Well if you're doing a stealth install, then you can grab the passenger door trigger wire right at the base of the rear seat. You could also tag into it right at the damn switch in the passenger side B pillar, and you wouldn't need to verify it with a meter. Done that car 10k times.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never had much reason to handle my own *****, what with your sisters always making themselves available to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
**THUD**
**THUD**
I'm hooking up the keyless stuff right now, Should I only use 2 wires off of the door lock harness? green/black and blue/black? Are the other wires for aftermarket actuators or something?
Yes inside the car, I flush mount them into HU install kits if I can, maybe a switch location dummy plug or even the dash trim, [and paint to match, must be disassembled to paint], I have installed them in the "A" or "B" or "C" pillar trim, even the case for the high mount brake light.
Use wiring diagram B... http://www.directeddealers.com...t.pdf page 11, you will also need the violet and violet/black, common w/ 15A fuse, ground that to chassis.
94
Use wiring diagram B... http://www.directeddealers.com...t.pdf page 11, you will also need the violet and violet/black, common w/ 15A fuse, ground that to chassis.
94
[QUOTE=fcm] Yes inside the car, I flush mount them into HU install kits if I can, maybe a switch location dummy plug or even the dash trim, [and paint to match, must be disassembled to paint], I have installed them in the "A" or "B" or "C" pillar trim, even the case for the high mount brake light.
I am confused to what you are talking about above? What are you saying about a dummy plug, painting and flush mounting???
I now understand I just use the blue/black and green/black, and the violet wires need to be grounded, I also have a black/white wire which i am guessing is ground, but it is not on the wiring diagram given or the one i have (same manual). Do i lose this wire because i am grounding it with violet or do i ground it out as well?
I am confused to what you are talking about above? What are you saying about a dummy plug, painting and flush mounting???
I now understand I just use the blue/black and green/black, and the violet wires need to be grounded, I also have a black/white wire which i am guessing is ground, but it is not on the wiring diagram given or the one i have (same manual). Do i lose this wire because i am grounding it with violet or do i ground it out as well?
Dummy plug = plastic plug plugging hole in dash were a switch would go if you had that option.
Flush mounting = drilling a hole in a plastic piece and pushing mic. through, [from behind] only far enough so front of mic. is flush, [does not stick out] with the plastic.
Painting = painting mic. housing to color match the plastic it is mounted in.
94
Flush mounting = drilling a hole in a plastic piece and pushing mic. through, [from behind] only far enough so front of mic. is flush, [does not stick out] with the plastic.
Painting = painting mic. housing to color match the plastic it is mounted in.
94
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hondacivic00
Audio / Security / Video
1
Apr 29, 2007 09:08 AM





