I have a clifford rsx 3.5 and Im installing it in my 94 civic cx. And I cant seem to find the starter input from the ignition. In the manual it says its on the key side, but I cant seem to find it. Ive read that its suppose to be a blue/black wire. Is that right?

 

So let me guess that your trying to install remote start.

 

Yes.

The pager comes on but it doesnt show much. Its like it cant find any signal. I know there is power somewhere cause the shock sensor was flashing.

 

What manual are you using? Honda has been using black/white for the starter wire color for decades across the entire line.

"Key side" refers to when you cut the wire, you now have two sides, key side and starter side.

 

Oh aight. Thanks.

 

Also as for the high current 12v input could I hook it up to the same wire? And what would be the best 12v wire to connect that to

 

I still cant seem to get the alarm to work

 

Here: http://www.the12volt.com/insta....html
I would probably hook up the 12v input to the constant 12v+ on the ignition harness.

 

Aight let me try to get this right cause I dont want anything to mess up


Alarm---Car

(H1)
RED-(+)constant power input **** 12v(white)
BROWN-(+)siren output *** Red wire on the siren
BLACK - Ground *** Ground
Violet- *** NOT USED
BLUE- multiplexed input - *** Not needed
GREEN- (-)door trigger input *** Light green/Red
BLACK/WHITE- *** NOT NEEDED
WHITE-(+)/(-)Selectable light flash output *** Red/Black

(H2)
Second unlock output
channel 5 output
channel 4 output
factory alarm rearm
wait to start input
factory alarm disarm

SATELLITE CONNECTOR

PURPLE-(+)starter output to starter *** Black/White --Starter Side
GREEN-starter input from ignition *** Black/White---Key Side
RED-high current 12v
ORANGE-(+)output to accessory circuit *** Blue(Tach wire)
PINK-(+)output to primary ignition circuit *** Black/Yellow
RED-(+)high current 12v
PINK/WHITE-(+)output to second ignition circuit *** Not Used
RED/WHITE- (+)high current 12v

(H3)
BLACK/WHITE-(-) neutral safety switch input *** Not needed?
VIOLET/WHITE-Tach input wire *** Blue?
BROWN-(+)brake shutdown wire *** Not needed?
GREY-(-)hood pinswitch input *** ?
BLUE/WHITE-latched/pulsed ***Not needed?

Could you guys verify that is correct and help me out? Im not really sure where to hook up the high current 12v. Should I just hook it up straight up to one constant wire?

Also where would I need relays? Im also putting actuators for my doors.

 

Dood, I don't even know where to start. I think you need someone with more expertise, but I will try. First, with the satellite connector, don't connect the orange to the tach, it goes to the ACC (yellow)wire in the ignition harness. Also, for the high current 12v in the relay satellite, why not tap 12v on the ignition harness since all the other wires go to that harness? Have you read this yet? http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html

 

"BLUE- multiplexed input - *** Not needed
GREEN- (-)door trigger input *** Light green/Red""""

i would use the trunk trigger (-) input instead (usually green in 5th gen. civics), less likey that the system will bypass when the system is violated 3 times within 60 minutes.... and btw, worry about the alarm first then move onto the xcrs satelite.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sniggler316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dood, I don't even know where to start. I think you need someone with more expertise, but I will try. First, with the satellite connector, don't connect the orange to the tach, it goes to the ACC (yellow)wire in the ignition harness. Also, for the high current 12v in the relay satellite, why not tap 12v on the ignition harness since all the other wires go to that harness? Have you read this yet? http://causeforalarm.thecarthi....html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I read that already, but it still doesnt work for me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akunamatta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"BLUE- multiplexed input - *** Not needed
GREEN- (-)door trigger input *** Light green/Red""""


i would use the trunk trigger (-) input instead (usually green in 5th gen. civics), less likey that the system will bypass when the system is violated 3 times within 60 minutes.... and btw, worry about the alarm first then move onto the xcrs satelite. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah Im just trying to get the alarm to work before I do any extras.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheTealHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also as for the high current 12v input could I hook it up to the same wire? And what would be the best 12v wire to connect that to</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you can't hook up your constant 12v to the starter wire!@?

If you have the antenna plugged in and the small red wire from the alarm and the three red wires from the satellite all connected side by side to the thick white wire on the ignition harness, and you have the black wire from the alarm grounded to the chassis, the alarm should "work". It wont actually do much, but you should hear it click and get a response on the remote when you hit the lock/unlock buttons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No you can't hook up your constant 12v to the starter wire!@?

If you have the antenna plugged in and the small red wire from the alarm and the three red wires from the satellite all connected side by side to the thick white wire on the ignition harness, and you have the black wire from the alarm grounded to the chassis, the alarm should "work". It wont actually do much, but you should hear it click and get a response on the remote when you hit the lock/unlock buttons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what wire should I connect the high current 12v too?

Also the remote doesnt show much. All that came up was the unlock picture and the car and it wont even show if its disarm or arm when I click it.

 

bump

 

Are you serious? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have the antenna plugged in and the small red wire from the alarm and the three red wires from the satellite all connected side by side to the thick white wire on the ignition harness, and you have the black wire from the alarm grounded to the chassis, the alarm should "work". It wont actually do much, but you should hear it click and get a response on the remote when you hit the lock/unlock buttons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, for the high current 12v in the relay satellite, why not tap 12v on the ignition harness since all the other wires go to that harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheTealHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what wire should I connect the high current 12v too?

Also the remote doesnt show much. All that came up was the unlock picture and the car and it wont even show if its disarm or arm when I click it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

high current 12v = constant 12v = white wire on the ignition harness

Unlock on the remote means that the alarm is disarmed. How else would you want to represent that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

high current 12v = constant 12v = white wire on the ignition harness

Unlock on the remote means that the alarm is disarmed. How else would you want to represent that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used the far left plug for my constant 12v and a female quick disconnect, i have a backup battery so if this is unplugged it wont be detrimental.

"Under-dash Fuse Block Outputs: 92-95 Honda Civic, 94+ Acura Integra Under-dash fuse block
Key: RED CONSTANT 12V, PURPLE ACCESSORY 12V, WHITE PARKING LIGHTS (+)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheTealHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So what wire should I connect the high current 12v too?

Also the remote doesnt show much. All that came up was the unlock picture and the car and it wont even show if its disarm or arm when I click it.</TD></TR></TABLE> Geezzz, how hard can it be?
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/pr...eID=3

Use the above tag in sheet to make your connections. 94

 

Where do they sell the female connectors for large wires?

 

Best thing to do is open the yellow pages and find a local mom and pop electronics supply store.

You're looking for female quick disconnects or "speaker connectors".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheTealHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do they sell the female connectors for large wires?</TD></TR></TABLE>Why would you need connectors for an alarm install, all connections should be soldered, I guess you could use one for the park light flash, [park light free pin on under dash fuse box]. 94

 

Do I need relays for any part of the alarm? Im adding actuators but doesnt the rsx3.5 alarm have a built in relay for adding actuators?

 

Do I need to hook up the relay satellite to get alarm working or is that just for the remote start? Cause if its just for the remote start then I think there is something wrong with my main brain for alarm. It seems to not trigger work. When I plug in the harness half way into the brain there is a small tone of sound like the alarm is going off. Any ideas guy?

 

Door lock relays are not built in to the Clifford Matrix RSX3.5 it has a -/+ low current output, you will need a pr of relays for door locks.

You will only need the yellow lead in the ribbon wire to the satellite relay pack if you are not doing remote start, depin all the other leads and connect the yellow to a true ign. source. 94