10" or 12"
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
10" or 12"
im looking at buying a sub/amp in a month or so and i cant make up my mind on weather to get a 10 or 12. Im not new at this so you don't need to get all elementary on me lol. Ive been looking at the SWX-1042D & SWX-1242D
they have almost 100% identical features with the exception of one has 32% more surface area. I know the 12 will have the ability to play lower tones better but at what sacrifice? for out right sound Q what would you guys go for? the speaker will go in a sealed box, I listen to mostly Rock and Trance/House
also, its going in a mid size car, 6x9s in the rear & 6.5s up front
they have almost 100% identical features with the exception of one has 32% more surface area. I know the 12 will have the ability to play lower tones better but at what sacrifice? for out right sound Q what would you guys go for? the speaker will go in a sealed box, I listen to mostly Rock and Trance/House
also, its going in a mid size car, 6x9s in the rear & 6.5s up front
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sterling Heights, MI, USA
Posts: 2,006
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Re: 10" or 12" (hks85)
The 12" is 2 dB/watt more efficient than the 10. For sound quality, go with the biggest driver you can afford/fit. I currently have a 15" running with my stock 6.5s, and I'm nowhere close to using up all of the 23 mm of one-way xmax. But it sure sounds good. The bigger cone area of the 12 will produce the same output as the 10 but with less excursion, which also means less distortion (due to suspension unlinearities[less suspension travel, less distortion]).
#5
Old Fart
Join Date: May 2004
Location: kelowna, bc, canada
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Re: 10" or 12" (hks85)
I have installed both subs in sealed box's, the 12" will go a little "deeper" the 10" has a "tighter" sound, [everything else being equal, proper box design and construction].
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 10" or 12" (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have installed both subs in sealed box's, the 12" will go a little "deeper" the 10" has a "tighter" sound, [everything else being equal, proper box design and construction].
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking perhaps the 12 in a 1.0^3 box. 3/4" thick & had laying the inside of the box with Fiberglas. prob around a 1/4" or so. That should be air tight with the exception of the rubber surround. Anyone know anything about the Santoprene used on the SWX? its a air tight? also the speaker calls for .65^3 to 1.25^3 Im too lazy to try and calculate the 1/4" loss all the way around but i do know it will be smaller then 1.0^3. should i start with a 1.25^3 instead? Ill be running 1Kw RMS.
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking perhaps the 12 in a 1.0^3 box. 3/4" thick & had laying the inside of the box with Fiberglas. prob around a 1/4" or so. That should be air tight with the exception of the rubber surround. Anyone know anything about the Santoprene used on the SWX? its a air tight? also the speaker calls for .65^3 to 1.25^3 Im too lazy to try and calculate the 1/4" loss all the way around but i do know it will be smaller then 1.0^3. should i start with a 1.25^3 instead? Ill be running 1Kw RMS.
Trending Topics
#8
Old Fart
Join Date: May 2004
Location: kelowna, bc, canada
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Re: 10" or 12" (hks85)
The "optimum" sealed box is 0.71cuft net, build box to 0.9cuft gross.
Seal the box with fiberglass resin, you do not need fiberglass mat, as long as you brace it.
The "santropene" surround is "closed cell" and it is airtight. 94
Seal the box with fiberglass resin, you do not need fiberglass mat, as long as you brace it.
The "santropene" surround is "closed cell" and it is airtight. 94
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD, USA
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 10" or 12" (fcm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have installed both subs in sealed box's, the 12" will go a little "deeper" the 10" has a "tighter" sound, [everything else being equal, proper box design and construction].
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with you 100%.....but ive ran both 10's and 12's in my vehicles and i like the 12's much better. I have 3 JL 12w3 v2's in my truck now and it hits great. I had it metered a couple days ago and i did 139.4 dB's
These are "high power" subs, [1000W continuous, 3000W peak] I would recommend no less then 3/4"MDF with 1" MDF sides and sub mounting surface, also I would recommend bracing, sealing MDF with fiberglass resin, wood sealer or one of the spray dampening materials, [do not forget the cut edge of the subs mounting hole] I would also recommend running a bead of silicon along all the seams, [all the above done inside of box] a sealed box needs to be airtight, and MDF, [even 1" is not airtight]. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with you 100%.....but ive ran both 10's and 12's in my vehicles and i like the 12's much better. I have 3 JL 12w3 v2's in my truck now and it hits great. I had it metered a couple days ago and i did 139.4 dB's
#10
I would have to argue that there is no difference in "tightness" provided that you are using similar Qtc sealed enclosures, but the difference in output is noticeable. I would recommend going with the 12" option.
Also, remember to never judge a sub by it's SPL or 1w/1m rating; that tells you nothing.
Cheers,
Neil
Also, remember to never judge a sub by it's SPL or 1w/1m rating; that tells you nothing.
Cheers,
Neil
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Punk0Rama)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punk0Rama »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, remember to never judge a sub by it's SPL or 1w/1m rating; that tells you nothing.
Cheers,
Neil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've noticed that, one more question, Ive never herd either of the two but when comparing two Perfect 12 and one type X 12 which would you rather go with? either way it will be in a sealed box, the perfects are 350w RMS each and the X is 1000RMS, so i was thinking a 1000W amp either way. what do you guys think would be the better way to go?
Also, remember to never judge a sub by it's SPL or 1w/1m rating; that tells you nothing.
Cheers,
Neil</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've noticed that, one more question, Ive never herd either of the two but when comparing two Perfect 12 and one type X 12 which would you rather go with? either way it will be in a sealed box, the perfects are 350w RMS each and the X is 1000RMS, so i was thinking a 1000W amp either way. what do you guys think would be the better way to go?
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Punk0Rama)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punk0Rama »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would have to argue that there is no difference in "tightness" provided that you are using similar Qtc sealed enclosures, but the difference in output is noticeable. I would recommend going with the 12" option.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have to agree by "tightness" I assume you mean the response time of the driver which is limited by the inductance and the amount of power given to a particular driver.
I would also go with the 12" if you have the room.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have to agree by "tightness" I assume you mean the response time of the driver which is limited by the inductance and the amount of power given to a particular driver.
I would also go with the 12" if you have the room.
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Monroe, MI, USA
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 10" or 12" (hks85)
I must say from expierince, go with the 12....I have one sitting in my trunk...Make sure you power that thing to its potential (1000w RMS) its very loud when you want it to be...but sounds amazing...I would def say on the same playing field as the JL 12 W7........One more thing, if your going for SPL this isnt your sub, i mean dont get me wrong its loud, but someone with 2 cheap 12's and ported box tuned to 50hz will be louder, but it will also sound like ****...Good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
UTCiv
Audio / Security / Video
2
07-04-2002 12:23 PM