I've heard that you could take your swapped honda to a honda dealership and they can do something that kind of registers it as a "hotrod" and then your only required to pass by some 1980s standard. Not too sure on the whole process or if its even true lol. (If anyone knows for a fact pleaseeeee chime in on that!) Even if that is true, I'm not certain what your insurance company will think.

 

Hoping to get the motor bolted in tomorrow. I pretty much didn't do any work on it this weekend other than a small amout of frame rail banging (definitely going to need more) and some grinding on the crankshaft pulley. Only a few pics but I was lucky enough to have the actual f20b pulley and don't have to worry about taking off the air conditioning/power steering pulleys




You can see how much I actually took off, first I took a small metal mallet and tapped around the outer rim to crack off the lip, then took a grinder and took off down to the first rib. I'll be using the exact same belt as my EG h2b setup because of how narrow it is, along with a b18c1 gsr alternator pulley to match it. This looks sketchy but it won't come off the crank pulley.

 

Probably had the motor in and out at least 10 times today but I think it's finally in the right spot. Still need to do wiring, coolant hoses, fuel lines, axles, exhaust, figure out alternator...

 

Today I finished most of the wiring (everything but the knock sensor and vtec wire) the distributor/external coil was a nightmare but its done. Also all the coolant and vacuum lines are done, radiator is in, fuel lines are good.

To do list:
-axles
-weld in o2 sensor bungs and weld cracks in exhaust
-wire up knock and vtakkkk wires
-clutch lines
-recharge and install battery
-front knuckles
-figure out alternator
-SPRAY PAINT THE ******* DISTRIBUTOR CAP
-swap skunk2 rear coilovers from EG civic
-swap walbro fuel pump from EG civic

...I'm sure there's a lot more to do but I can't remember right now

few pics

 

Nice

 

Knuckles, axles, and alternater are done, and dizzy cap is painted. Motor and tranny have oil, but the thermostat housing is leaking coolant.

Also still need to weld up exhaust, wire knock and vtec sensors, install clutch line when its in, and figure out the coolant leak.

Only took 2 pics today

 

So close yet so far.


Garage is a mess lol

 

No pics or vids yet but it's up and running. It has a crazy idle surge at the moment that I need to figure out along with a check engine light. How do you check obd1 cel codes with an obd2b car? Is there a wire I can loop at the ecu that allows the cel to flash the codes?

 

Small update:

So I got everything running how I want it as a daily as an obd1 setup (no CELs), just a few small tweaks left.

Before I can really register it though, the car needs to pass CT emissions as an obd2 car with a usdm obd2 ecu. As it is I just need to install and wire up an upstream o2 sensor and do a crank fluctuation sensor delete at the ecu, and that should clear the only 2 check engine lights I have at the moment. (With obd2 setup)

I had a few friends ask how I'm switching between obd1/obd2 and I feel the easiest way is to:
1. Match fitv to ecu
2. Match iacv to ecu
3. Match throttle body to ecu
4. Delete (bypass) the crank fluctuation sensor
5. Hard wire both obd2 o2 sensors

Assuming it passes, I'll probably spend a day or two getting the car back to obd1 and working out the bugs.

.....I think that's it for now. Good talk, see you out there

 

Ok so...

I set the car up as obd2b, used a d16 ecu (nooooo power) and babied it to emissions, passed, registered at the dmv, babied the car home, switched everything back to obd1, car runs amazing... EXCEPT I can nottttt get vtec to work. I need ideas bc I'm all out.

1. Vtec solenoid is from my h22a and I know it works
2. I tapped pin D6 into pin A4 at the ecu so the vtec oil pressure sensor is bypassed
3. Checked wiring with a multi-meter

Any ideas would be a huge help

 

Does your speed sensor work? Any check engine lights?

Re check the wiring, or continuity check the harness.

 

Does the ecu pin D6 (vtec oil pressure switch) need to go to ground at all? Or is it ok to just wire it directly to the A4 solenoid wire?

Ive checked the continuity, and the speed sensor works at the gauge cluster at least. I should check that at the ecu side though. Def a good call!

 

Forgot to post these.
compression update
#1


#2


#3


#4

 

Does you ECU chip have the Vtec oil pressure switch bypassed? On the second page it looks as if the vtec solenoid oil pressure switch was blocked off. JDM engines to my knowledge do not have them.

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead!
I got the car running like a beast and have been daily driving ever since but never bothered to update.

Now, the car needs a lot of maintenance soon and I'm considering going turbo while I'm at it, but an h2b setup isnt so easy to turbo in an EK. For the most part the f20b (sir-t) is stock other than ks tuned balance shaft delete kit and timing tensioner. I've been doing research but I feel like I still have no idea which turbo/trim to go with. I've seen some pretty good results with t3/t4 setups.

Are there any somewhat easy kits out there that would allow H series charge piping/intercooler/exhaust... ect in a 2000 civic hatch?

 

I have the exact same setup as u but if u don't mind me askin, what made u use the h2b instead of the t2t4 trans?