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My local dealer won't price match dealer website sale prices, only list. $136 is still steep for a battery.
This wasn't on sale either, and the last battery I purchased which was 4yrs ago was the same price... under $100
Either way the warranty still seems better than that of auto parts stores
Yeah I'm sure it's a better quality battery too. Did you get it from a local dealer? I looked up the price for a 2000 SI on Hondapartsnow and it was a $97.10.
Yeah I'm sure it's a better quality battery too. Did you get it from a local dealer? I looked up the price for a 2000 SI on Hondapartsnow and it was a $97.10.
It was from Showcase Honda, a local dealership here in Phx.
Walk in and walk out with it or else they try to scew you with installing it in your car.
Last edited by chuck chainz; Nov 6, 2020 at 12:10 PM.
I finally found a good 4th gear locally and waiting for it in the mail but in the mean time here is a little more on the mirror block off molding process.
I waxed the base plate with Partall paste and I also sprayed on some PVA release agent.
Later today or early tomorrow I’ll be mixing the black gel coat and fiberglass. Fiberglass block-off plates will initially be available and then I’ll make some carbon fiber pieces.
Preval sprayer for those non-compressor having *****!
I've been slacking on the transmission and turbo progress because I've been too busy playing with fiberglass 'n stuff. Silly me, but also because of the fourth gear problem.
But I did manage to fiddle with the reverse light wires and clean them up with expandable sleeving and ooey gooey heatshrink.
Tackling the engine and headlight harness is in the works as well but that'll come a bit later and its not going to be a tucked harness either... just cleaned up is all.
I literally have not made any good progress on this car. I've been too busy playing with fiberglass and trying to perfect the mold making process, however I have now put that aside until I finish the trans.
Moving on...
After work today I checked the thrust on the main shaft and I ended up with this .009"
Spec is within .004"-.007"
Given that number I need a different shim, I'll order that tonight.
Over the weekend I'll make a video regarding that part of the trans rebuild since YouTube is devoid of it for a Honda trans.
Onto the pics.
Stack up the MS
Close the trans with several bolts, dont use Hondabond though
Set up your Indicator and base along with the MS holding tool
This will show you if you need to purchase another shim or if you're golden.
I was not golden in fact... I need to purchase a thicker shim.
I know I know, another trans pic but this is good since I've had a hell of a time getting good parts and finding broken parts down the line that need replacing, Ugh!!!
I also realized that my problem last time was a bad 3/4 gear hub... how? Well, it made 4th gear bind upon 5th/R hub being installed, and I know its the hub since it did the same thing on the spare MS I have... the two OEM 3/4 hubs did not give me that problem when installed.
But anyway, I'll be happy to have this trans finished and installed.
Update!
The Integra is finally on all fours, but sadly sans turbo at the moment.
After many months, 2 mainshafts, 2 "3rd/4th" gear hubs, a distance collar, a mainshaft 4th gear, a 3rd gear synchro gear, countless measurements, and a MAP sensor... she is running smoothly.
I filled the trans with TORCO MTF and I have to say, I love this stuff. I definitely recommend it over Honda MTF and even Amsoil MTF. It has a smooth engagement and also a smooth/cushion feel to it that the other fluids didnt have.
The turbo stuff had to be put on hold because I had to buy a new welder. I ended up purchasing a PrimeWeld 225x which should be here by weeks end.
This should get things moving along nicely. I'm not sure how I feel about the cart though but we will see.
I was previously welding with an AHP 2XX and it was good but I'm excited to start welding with this unit and see what it can do.
First order of business will be finishing my charge pipes.
I picked up this dirty as hell sum' bitch the other day.
The plan is to open it up and tear it down and rebuild/replace worn parts while adding a clutch/metal type LSD and keep it as a spare. I will of course film it and add it to my small library of videos on Youtube and add to the countless Honda transmission videos... LOL.
It was time to
A: rotate my wheels/tires
and
B: contemplate whether I'll be making the jump to 17's instead of replacing my tires when the time comes. I do like how the bigger wheels fill up the wheel arches though.
Along with that it seems as if my front brakes will need replacing soon. Good thing I have pads, no rotors though and my stupid KONI STR.T dampers need replacing too. The replacements will likely be KONI yellows since I dont think I need coilovers nor want them... at the moment.
Last edited by chuck chainz; Jun 7, 2021 at 04:08 PM.
I'll be honest I've been putting this off for my fear of messing **** up, but I said **** it and went for it, so while waiting on my rotors, this I had to do. I made a purge block as well.
2.5" downpipe for my Greddy 18g. I had to re-ordered a flange because the one I have is not stainless. Most of that should be squared through out next week. Kind of taking it slow because welding in 118* degree heat is not fun.
Last edited by chuck chainz; Jun 19, 2021 at 02:24 PM.
The end result... I’m pretty happy with it, being my first time dealing with stainless steel and backpurging and all.
I have more stainless I have to cut to make the rest of the DP but this served as good practice.
You can see I need a bit more heat in some areas as far as penetration goes.
Continuing with the down pipe and charge pipes has been on my to do list but I couldn't proceed any further without the ability to cut my tubing, so enter this awesome combo!
Milwaukee deep cut bandsaw and SWAG portaband stand. I already knew it but fabrication is not cheap.
I also picked these up but im not sure if I want to keep them, I guess we'll see.
I finally washed her and it felt good! Doesn’t take away from the fact that the paint is fucked but it’s clean so that’s good.
The front brake pads and rotors were just replaced with Hawk HP Plus pads Raybestos rotor blanks. Braking is so much better now compared to that oem bullshit. Noise and dust are more present but whatever.
I also made some headway on the AIM9 GT vent ducting. I have aluminum to bend into the shape I need, so that’ll be done tomorrow.