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we built an ls/vtec this summer. it lasted 200 miles. it had alot done. rod re-condtioned, crank polished, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, new w/p, new ls timing belt, head resurfaced, block decked, honed, new rings. so pretty much it was brand new re build with arp head and rod hardware. it had pr4 pistons in it. it was all going god till about 100 miles. then it started to overheat. i changed thermostat to no avail. then i took it out. that helped a litle bit but it still ran at about 210 minimum. i even changed the HG thinking that there were blocked passages and there werent. we used the stock OEM HG.

help me figure what made spin a bearing after 200 miles.this is where i think i couldve went wrong:

1st: i told machine shop to order bearings that would fit the crank. they order acl in std. i installed them to the correct tq. specs out of the Helms.

2nd: i used the fastory ls oil pump.


now i am going to rebuild the motor and it will live. im a very determined person.

is there anything else the ls/crvtec boys would like to advise?

MrParks

BASICLY IT COMES DOWN TO A # OF THINGS. WHEN YOU PUT IT TOGETHER WHAT LBS OF TQ DID YOU SEQUENCE THEM ? ALSO ARP ROD BOLTS HAVE ALOT MORE TOLERANCE THEN THE ALSO GOOD FACTORY ONES YOU SHOULD GO THE EXTRA 10. FT LBS OVER STOCK NEXT TIME OVER HEATING? WELL WHAT TYPE OF CAR AND RAD YOU USING?

b19coupe

Sounds like your engine had more than one issue. Cooling system problems and lubrication/clearance problems. It would be advisable to check your bearing clearances with plastigage when assembling the engine. As for the cooling system 210 minimum? Not good; 210 should be closer to maximum. If you are running the wimpy stock Civic radiator, upgrade it. Make sure that your block and head surfaces are flat and even. Have the block decked and the head resurfaced if necessary. Head gasket seal is critical for proper cooling system operation.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like your engine had more than one issue. Cooling system problems and lubrication/clearance problems. It would be advisable to check your bearing clearances with plastigage when assembling the engine. As for the cooling system 210 minimum? Not good; 210 should be closer to maximum. If you are running the wimpy stock Civic radiator, upgrade it. Make sure that your block and head surfaces are flat and even. Have the block decked and the head resurfaced if necessary. Head gasket seal is critical for proper cooling system operation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had block deck and head resurfaced. i know ti should be like 210 max. it was in a DA with the full length stock rad. i also check the head and block for flatness after that with a str8 edge going corner to corner. however about the overheating i did find that one of the water pump bolts busted so i think that something was going wierd with that. about he bearings i have no clue why that went wrong. i followed the helms tediously.

JDMlyfestyle

u should have been running a better oil pump than a LS also.

b16supertuner

never. ever take out your thermostat. the rapid heating of the pistons and sleeves versus the cold flowing coolant = sleeves expanding from the heat and cold coolant not letting it = mass ring wear and friction. a thermostat only lets a little coolant through the passage at a time, letting it warm up

usdm420

iTrader: (1)

i'd start at the LS oil pump

blackcruzan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd start at the LS oil pump

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that might've been the problem

Rusty Shackleferd