ef2hondaboi

iTrader: (-1)

b16 got potential my friend. i have a fully built b16a n/a just kill an k20eg the other day.

DOCH

more you spend more power you'll most likely make.

m_shake

Here's my help, SEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

m_shake

k20a3 eg??

Red_Army

he woke up after the race was over.

buy a b20. throw the b16a head on it. go to race town. i'm in the search for a b20. been driving with I/H/E for almost a year now. its fun and all but a b20 will be sick fun.

for earlier. a USDM b16a123 puts out 160. jdm is 170. and b is 185. at crank.

for actual potential power. whenever the engine stops or breaks. theres 200+whp. not high over 2 but they've done it. b16s seem to be turbos best friends in the B world. but the head, IM, and tranny are golden on b16s.

mikesrex

My friend Huy's all motor B16A put down 270 WHP and went 11.2@121 in a street CRX

he spent a lot of money to do that, though. It run a custom stroker kit, sleeved block, 86mm bore, roller cams, custom intake manifold and header.

anothersickhatch

Once you start boring and stroking a b16, it's not a b16 anymore. If you want to say "it's a b16", leave it as such. Other wise, buy a b20 or a b18. The most I ever got out of my 1.6 liter was 187 to the wheels.

mikesrex

It is still a B16A motor, though. You nay-sayers are the ones with slow cars when it comes to race day....

Red_Army

no because when you tell anyone hey heres my b16. they think 1.6 liter engine. not hey heres my b16 but its actally bored out to 1.8ish. totally different.

its you sandbaggers that ruin race days.

Serge L

^^^ hahhahaha

but what i finally decided im gona do is what a previous person said, is a b20 then get b16 head build that up with upgraded internals. and since i heard sooooo many good things about the b16 tranny get that and ill be good. just gona stay N/A

FRANKENSTEIN SWAP ((:

Turbo vw

ok im gona try and lay it out with resonble out **** hear ok i figer ur not planing on sleving ur block out and going with some custom stroker set up a b16a can on a farly resonble all motor buget make around 200whp but ill tell you this u spend a good chunk of change to git verry little gane in the end it just hast to be what you really want, if ur just wanting to make a fun car to drive every day (dont really care for auto x are driving up and doun curvie roads) id just git my hands on a

b20 short block (id git a b20z it will net u more hp and tork in the end do to the higher comp pistons) freshin it up id add some arp main studs and rod bolts, git new honda barings and a new honda oil pump (b16 gsr are itr will work just fine) also git a new water pump from the same b16, gsr, itr, new set of wrings

take ur b16 head have it ported and polished (i recomend a reptoble person do this it will pay off better in the end) you can also have over sized valves instaled and the cams of ur choosing, just depinds on how much you wana spend (this is really ware u will see the power being made) you can also deck the block and head to incras the compreshin a we bit

the next biggest things are going to be ur intake and exhoust as for intake manafold you can do a itr/ctr are go with a skunk2 are elderblock... the AEM intake has done best on my b16 out of the ones weve use also with the hedder a lot of guys have had good luck out of the toda hedders and i beleve its the RMF maby


it dosent coust a forchen if u know what u want and know ware to spend the money you can git away with using a ITR cams and valve spring set up are even a little cheeper just a set of GSR cams it just depinds on ware u wana end up when ur finsh

as for obd0, obd1 and obd2 that is the compert system in witch the motor is run on 90 and maby 91 is obd0 92-95 is obd1 and 96 up is obd2

the trans being hydro and cable ezest way to put it is the EF and DA's are cable and EG EK DC are hydro, being a cable refers to a cable operated clutch, hydro refers to the cutch uses hydroic cylinders to ingage and diss ingage the clutch

the171

this particular forum on honda-tech is mostly left to advanced tuners. I would recommend another forum to learn about some of the basics of hondas automotive engine family.

As others have mentioned, the B16 is a nice engine, but difficult to make power with due to its size (N/A). It has been done, but the b20s and so on provide more for less. Generally, with some money and time, 170whp is an achievable and respectable number out of a B16A. They are an extremely reliable and high revving motor (with little low end).

mADmAN-86

B16A setups ive encountered...

B16A with All B16B Bolt ons... pistons, cams, intake etc etc : 175hp on wheel

the 2 highest B16A setups ive encountered were 197hp on wheel and both are daily driven...

both has had a shitload of money spent on them and one of them used to belong to rhommel of romtuning....this car was also driven at least once a month for long distance (about 5 hours drive 1 way)...unsure wats in it though

the other was a friend of mine...whooped a mildly modded 4G63T on the 1/4 mile. and i mean whooped. this one was built similar to Toda's engine specs with all Toda internals.

my cousin had a B16A with 84mm pistons in custom sleeves. unknown horsepower...but he says the torque was significantly improved.


all these are based on the JDM B16A 170hp.

wolve

b16's max out 2 about 200whp on the stock stroke. non stock stroke is going to cost you!

if you don't care about the b16 stamp, get a b20 with rs-machine pistons and arp rodbolts. then it starts @ ~200whp

Serge L

how come everybody always says "arp rodbolts" is that so the stock ones dont break on you?
i am simi new just trying to learn all i can, a friends is "mentoring" me with a swap, so dont want to be totally clueless when he tells me to buy thing an what not

Turbo vw

there stronger than ur factory bolts and really for the added sucuraty of the bolts when u start spinning a motor high and fast it puts a lot of stress on the botom end bolts can cause thim to stretch are even brake


replacing thim no u are not garentyed thay wont brake are strech but thay will take a bigger and better beeting than the factory bolts

head bolts/studs on a NA motor unless ur running super retarted compreshen arnt nessasery but there nice to have sens thay are re usable incase u ever haft to pull the head agen

wolve

any b18c rod bolts are good for up to 9250-9500rpms

b16, b18 and b20 use smaller weaker rod bolts.

for the b16 that's not much of an issue because of the small stroke (can stil spin 9500rpm hassle free)

but the same bolt is in the b20/b18, not a problem either because their designed to run max 7000-7500rpm, once your getting a vtec head on it and want to run 8000+rpm it becomes a ticking time bomb!

so vtec shortblocks is safe up to about 9500rpm, non vtec up to max 8000ish rpm and with arp bolts you can go 9500rpm again

Serge L

thats a good thing to know, thanks will deff keep that in mind when doing the swap.
whats a good website for parts??

161822

iTrader: (1)

Sold the car. I had my first s2000 ap1. 11lbs on a comp tech sc put down 370whp. Sold that and got another one, an ap2. 8 lbs of boost on another comp tech sc and put down 371whp! I finally got around to getting another civic 6 years later. I'm building a b20vtec at the moment. My s2000 is done for now. Go with a b20. Power will be a lot easier to make. When I built my b16 it was to show that I could and make power!

livedew12

Want some easy power? Swap in a B20 vtec.

SergEK

Skip the Bs all together

Build a Big H or a Big K and save the tiny motors for the slow guys

Bseries < F20B/H22/H23

H2B FTW

jrhdominos

To answer your initial question, the b16 has potential, N/A or turbo. What these gentlemen are trying to tell you is, going the turbo route generates a LOT more power for equal or less amount spent. An all motor b16 that revs to 9500 would be fun, just wouldn't be practical for your time and money. They are also explaining that you would be better off going with the bigger b18 or b20 for displacement's sake. Way easier to yield more hp/tq(definately) on the b18 or b20. Bang for your buck, if you are ready for a little bit more labor, an h22 bone stock in an eg would be cheaper and faster than MOST LS/B20 VTECS out there.
Im going to say calmly, do research, and I mean TONS of research. How do you think you learn in school??? Schools give you books for a reason. Im not bashing on you, man, but I'm explaining that there is an answer out there for most questions you ask. Be specific when using the search function. All I'm saying is read up bro. Lots of info out there. I hoped I helped you some.