spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Ehh, every machine ever made has a problem or two. No big deal.

Thatk20life

man the block looks so clean keep it up!!!!!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Thanks dude. I wish it was still as clean, but at least it looks pretty good for a 45k motor!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Car has developed a very light miss or surge between 2-3k at really light loads (<60kPa MAP). It's hard to tell which it is, but it's gone from very intermittent to pretty consistent. Sometimes under coast down it feels like it's going in and out of fuel cut too, but the data says it's not. Really weird and hard to pin down behavior.

I need to go through the grounds this weekend, I feel like last time I freshened them up that it got better... but that may have just been panacea. It might also be coincidence, but it seems to have become more noticeable in the last two weeks in which it has not stopped raining (I think this was the case last time too).

Anyone run into this before? I know it's difficult to diagnose something over the web unless the symptoms are something that has been run into time and again, so I'm hoping someone here will have run into it before.

aeros

iTrader: (1)

maybe tps sensor?

blackeg

Is it a lean condition? U running o2 sensors or just off the ecu? I just dealt with the same symptoms with mine running stock p75 and a fpr. Turns out the rear o2 harness where it goes up into tje car and through the floor had worn away the sheathing and the wires was griunding out causing the sensor to have bad readings. Ita very random but same symptoms so I figured id bring it up worth a try.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

No, AFR is stable at hat point and seems to have no effect on the condition when adjusted in either direction. I'm running a P28 with Demon/NepTune and it's in open loop.

TPS and MAP are stable and accurate. I actually had an issue a couple of months back where connector D on the ecu adapter was allowing the pins to jiggle around. It manifested itself as an offset between MAP and Baro at key on/engine off and as a TPS that would change from the calibrated values randomly. Replaced the janky aftermarket connector shells with OE and it's rock steady now.

Otherwise,

- Cap & Rotor are about a month old (OEM)
- Swapped ICM & coil, one at a time, for known good parts with no change
- Plugs are in good condition
- Fuel pump is new and has been changed since the issue popped up - no effect.
- Valve adjustment is current
- Mechanical & base spark timing are dead nuts.
- Due for an oil change this weekend

I could go on, but for the most part I maintain and document the crap out of the car so I don't think it's a maintenance issue.

Car is otherwise running fine. The weird thing about it is that it only does it at really light throttle. If I go above ~25-30% it smooths out. Average consumption remains right around 30mpg, seems that if I was missing it would be falling off.

I'm kind of running out of ideas, but I might socket this P75 ecu I picked up a month or two ago so I can drop my old base chip in it and eliminate that variable.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone,

I got a new job in California, and B20+OBD1 means that the car can't come with me... so it's up for sale.

PM me if interested, I'll have a FS thread up soon.

blackeg

hell yeah man! congrats.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, I'm stoked!

Most likely going to work with Indy cars. It's like going straight from street ball to the NBA.

I guess all of these years of pissing around with old Civics is finally paying off!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

If anyone that is familiar with the process and/or knows of some loopholes that will allow me to bring this car with me to California, please post or contact me privately.

Much appreciated

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

The old girl came with me, I couldn't face the potential of having a car payment while looking for a $4-500000 house! Still not sure what I'm going to do about the whole CA registration thing.

Anyway, I've been catching up on maintenance. Fortunately the guy I'm renting a room from right now is a total hot rodder so I have some space to work and more tools tthan I brought with me.

Did the belts/thermostat/cooling system a couple of weeks ago. Can't believe I've already put almost 80k on this thing:



I went with a GS-R water pump and timing belt this time. It underdrives the pump a little, but it works fine on the vtec engines, so why not? I think it might have actually gotten me a little extra fuel efficiency, now that I look at my fuel records.

Oild change is on deck today, thought I'd go ahead and hit a couple of the leaks that have really been bothering me:



Pan gasket is obvious. I've been using the I've been using the Prelude block fittings with Aeroquip push on hose crammed onto them for my breather setup, but it's always seeped a little bit and I can't stand it. Unfortunately, in this case, I used -8 line. All of the block fitting I could find were -10, so I had to get step down adapters. The alternative would have been to replace all of my lines and my can, but I'm not on board for that project right now. Maybe down the road.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Mods, I don't know if you'll see this, but is there any chance of me changing the thread title?

honda_90

Have you found what you have needed for california registration? I might have a buddy who knows a couple of people that might be able to help you.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to work on that, preferably by passing the plug in check in a legitimate manner. In the meantime, my Florida registration is valid for two more years anyway.

Caoboy

What year is your car, what year is your motor?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

00/01

Caoboy

Ok.

You'll need to make sure all emissions sensors are on the engine and working, for the year you're trying to pass BAR as.

Basically you'll be reffing this as a 'replacement' for a b18b integra engine.

You'll need a factory obd2b P75 ecu. Something I've never actually tried though, is a factory CRV ecu. This is something you may want to ask the bar station about.

If the 00-01 ecu has an immobilizer it needs to be working.



OEM LS exhaust manifold or CARB EO equivalent needs to be on the car. As well as a CA compliant catalytic converter.

Exhaust piping doesn't matter after the cat.

OEM airbox or CARB EO equivalent.

OEM intake manifold or CARB EO skunk 2 manifold will work.

You may or may not pass visual with the harness. I've never tried to pass bar with an aftermarket harness.

As long as you have no CEL, the ecu is reading all sensors fine, and there are no loose ends, you'll pass bar.

96ekb20

good numbers my 11.8;1 b20 did 184/142 i get 36mpg with b16 with ls 5th. i have bc stage 3 cams. pro series intake but found out that its restricting the engine victor x is the way to go. and 2.5 exhaust plm long tube.3' cold airs and blox v stacks help alot. mine was tunned conserative max timing was 20 degrees.

PyroProblem

I thought you weren't allowed to swap truck engines into cars either? And the crv was considered a truck...

Possibly register it out of state?

Caoboy

It's been classified as a replacement motor for a b18a/b since those are hard to find, since 2009. This info was told to my brother when he went to referee his b20 swap into his 1991 Integra. Passed on the first try, no issues.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I had heard a rumor about that, but nothing confirmed until now. That's good news.

All good info.

The 00-01 P75 (37820-P75-A05) ecu is pretty much a no-go, I've been looking for one for a while now with no luck. If I could find one, the immobilizer wouldn't be a problem as there are chips available to remove it from the ecu without a MIL... so not concerned with that. CR-V 5-speed ecus (37820-PHK-A02/A03) are available and not too expensive.

Other than that, at this point I'd need:

- LS Exhaust manifold
- Catalyst (mine is 2.5")
- Secondary HO2S installed
- OBD2 intake manifold with evap valve
- OBD1 injectors (have them somewhere, currently running custom Bosch's)
- OEM knock sensor (Currently Bosch flat response)
- figure out what to do about the primary HO2S (currently wired for LSU4.2)
- OEM fuel pressure regulator

Everything else is present and all wiring is there, except for the lambda sensors. I doubt the harness will be a problem, everything is there and oem except for the sleeving. I did it that way on purpose.

So, it's doable.

One option for the primary O2S is using the narrowband output on it and building a simple black box to keep the heater circuit happy. It probably wouldn't even get noticed, and I might make it anyways just for ***** and giggles... it would be a good tool for my test bench.

How long is the BAR sticker valid for?

Caoboy

I believe the immobilizer has to work. It can't be removed. Not 100% on this.

I didn't realize you were running a different primary O2. That will most likely need to be changed to a factory narrowband.

BAR sticker is for the life of the car. It allows the engine swap to be 'legal' and once it is there you never have to pass that inspection again.

Smog inspection is every 2 years.

If you Google California BAR, you will come up with a number to set an appointment. Take your car down for inspection. It is a $8.25 fee.

If you fail they give you a huge printout of everything you need to do to pass. They don't look for ways to fail you, they want to pass you. Talk to them and they'll tell you everything you need to know.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I've read that the BAR people are actually pretty good to work with. There's no point in me showing up until I at least have the things fixed that I know I have to fix. After that I can start honing in on the little things. Step one will be to get a PHK ecu and start working to eliminate DTCs, then I can go from there. Can't do anything at all unless I can make an OBD2 ecu happy.


Of course, all of this pretty much has to wait until I get a house and get settled in, all of my tools and stuff are still in Florida and it doesn't make sense for me to accumulate stuff while I'm renting a room... so I'm not stressing about it for now.


My only other question is about the smog test side of things. With the swap cars, do they test them to the normal standards for the year of the car? From what I've read, 2000 and newer are no longer subject to the dyno and only require a plug-in test (if stock). I'm concerned that, with ~11:1 compression, stock cams, and stock ecu, that this thing has no chance of passing a tailpipe test. If it's just a plug-in check, things are significantly easier to pull off.


Thanks again for your input

Caoboy

Yes they will test the emissions based off of what the engine requirements are iirc.

It's been a while since I've smogged a 00+ vehicle so I don't know what the standards are. I believe my 01 CRV never got on the dyno.

If you poke around here : Laws and Regulations you'll most likely find out.