Mhollaek9

so if I already have stage 2's in my built gsr is it worth to change to pro 1s?

jime64871

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mhollaek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if I already have stage 2's in my built gsr is it worth to change to pro 1s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you want power throughout the RPM range, then YES
But S2S2's are better DD
IMO

anothersickhatch

why do you think the pro 1's are better for daily driving?

i have them in my daily driver and they are fine. you just have to get someone to tune them to idle correctly.

oldskool teggy

i'd think its also because the car runs different when cold and warmed up. Once the car runs cooler then that, it starts to dump more fuel. most guys tune hondata to run at optimum temp. No one I can think of tunes an ECU's cold temp program if there even is such a thing.

Also take into consideration the location where you live. Jime lives in WA, so cold weather and temp is obviously a big concern of his and drivability is much different than it is down here, not to mention taking elevation and etc into account.


It would make sense that the car would idle worse first in the morning, right after start up or after sitting for awhile, vs. right after a 15 min highway affair. regardless of how well it was tuned. If i'm wrong dont shoot me. regarding the s2s2, I love them and I couldnt be happier unless someone can guarantee me at least 15+ hp to the wheels over my current setup throughout my entire rpm, and at least .5 sec decrease in 1/4 time.

t0ekn3e

nm

jime64871

iTrader: (1)

you have a point there. That is what i'm experiencing right now. So until i get the car back in to tune some more i ain't touching it. The driveability just really sucks with having bad idles @ the point of dying off........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anothersickhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you think the pro 1's are better for daily driving?
i have them in my daily driver and they are fine. you just have to get someone to tune them to idle correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why don't you get into detail about this. What cam gears you using and what are the settings? What's your set-up consist of, etc.

No, i think S2S2's are better than Pro1's for driveability. Due to its smaller low cam profile compared to the Pro 1's as its almost as big as the VTEC lob...

Mhollaek9

My tuner said go for stage 3s tuner series instead of pro1s. Is the stage 3s better than stage 2s? What you guys thing

jime64871

iTrader: (1)

it's not a matter of what is better than what. It's the way you wanna make power and what it's use for.

anothersickhatch

i skunk2 cam gears as well. i believe they are 4 degrees advanced on the exhaust cam and 2 degrees advanced on the intake. it may be the other way around, im not sure off hand. i have p30 pistons, a highend header, skunk2 manifold, jg throttle body, rc 310 injectors...my dyno is in this thread somewhere. it idles like **** because its dumping too much fuel at idle. skunk2 recommends taking away like 15-30% fuel away at idle.

in my opinion, i think pro1's are better for daily driving because they give tons more low, mid range power and torque. you dont have to give it too much gas to get going when driving around town. the power is just always right there.

my dyno graph is on page 15, in the middle.

jime64871

iTrader: (1)

good stuff.
When your on the road @ a stop light how's the idle then? Does it drop down to the point of dying or actually dying? mine does. It's tough to drive...
On the other hand i do agree with you about making power throughout the power band. That is what actually made me to switch from Stage2's to Pro1's. Just didn't expect the complicated tunability.
Where did you get that info about the 15-30% less fuel? link?

707CIVIC

I now have 196 whp with some jun3 and a stock jdm b18c block do u think if i changed into skunk2 cams i would get more power

anothersickhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 707CIVIC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I now have 196 whp with some jun3 and a stock jdm b18c block do u think if i changed into skunk2 cams i would get more power</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not assuming anything, but i would think you would. it would have to be more than a stage 1 though.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jime64871 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good stuff.
When your on the road @ a stop light how's the idle then? Does it drop down to the point of dying or actually dying? mine does. It's tough to drive...
On the other hand i do agree with you about making power throughout the power band. That is what actually made me to switch from Stage2's to Pro1's. Just didn't expect the complicated tunability.
Where did you get that info about the 15-30% less fuel? link?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they idle really good. its not at like 750 rpms, its around 1050 so it idles high. its a little lumpy, but not too bad. i havent had any problems with dying at idle. they just need to be tuned by a good tuner. that 30% less fuel is from this link... http://www.skunk2.com/Engine/i...=CSPB

all the way at the bottom.

jime64871

iTrader: (1)

thanks for looking out!

Teamdiesel

here is my graph
B16B
11.5:1 cr
Hytech production header
Edelbrock performerX IM
68mm throttle body
P28 Crome chipped ECU by Pherable.net
Custom 3" intake w/velocity stack
Skunk Pro series cam gears
Gates timing belt
Mfactory 4.785 final drive
V-AFC2
AEM fuel rail
310cc injectors

before cam gear tuning

After cam gear tuning

anothersickhatch

impressive. thats a whole lot of torque for a 1.6 liter. well done.

Team 400M_Dr. Pepper

Here's my old set up. By old I mean 1996..
95 4 door RS teg
Bone stock B18 A1 RS / LS block
Ported LS head
JG 403 sticks
.30 over mill
45 webers (39 mm venturi's)
DC 4-2-1 ceramic header - 3" ultra flow muffler
AEM carb manifold (custom) by dan parimore. *remember that guy*
4 puck action clutch
she squeezed out 178 hp and 142 lbs.. I used to love that car..


Modified by Team 400M_Dr. Pepper at 5:27 AM 12/6/2007

ricekiller1

bump for more setups

DC4R27

bump

paddy b

im in the middle of my build,
da8 xsi integra
b18c1 stock bottom end
b16a sir head
itr cams
buddyclub adjustible pulleys
ported and polished head
buddyclub 2layer headgasket
toda exhaust manifold
buddyclub spec3 system+de-cat
j's racing induction kit

im not too sure wether to go with a jdm dc2 type-r ecu or buy a power fc?
i hope to get 170whp think its possible with a proper map?

oldskool teggy

anothersickhatch - are you running a straight pipe?

anothersickhatch

yeah....2.5 in. all the way back.

anothersickhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paddy b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im in the middle of my build,
da8 xsi integra
b18c1 stock bottom end
b16a sir head
itr cams
buddyclub adjustible pulleys
ported and polished head
buddyclub 2layer headgasket
toda exhaust manifold
buddyclub spec3 system+de-cat
j's racing induction kit

im not too sure wether to go with a jdm dc2 type-r ecu or buy a power fc?
i hope to get 170whp think its possible with a proper map?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. i see that motor making 170, at the least.

jcvelez360

b18c1
b18c5 internals
rods balanced
cranck lighte and balanced
compresion 11.5
head port and polish
s2s2 cams
s2 camgears
s2 valves, retainers, springs
aem cold air intake
s2 intake manifold 66tb hondata gasket
dc sports 4-1 header
custom cat (crap)

it only mades 185whp, wath do you thing is wrong with the set up???

anothersickhatch

it could for sure be the cat. those things KILL power. you might be looking at around 15whp from removing that thing.

it does sound a little low. i have almost the same set-up, but without a port and polish.

NguyenDC2

Before I make a thread, I think I would ask here first. So I have a 1996 Integra GSR and planning to go all motor. I want something that is good for daily driving, but in the 200whp area. The only mod I have on my motor is a BLOX intake manifold. What would you guys recommend? As for my spending amount, I'm not so sure about it. I planning to buy stuff as I get money. And for the person that relaly helps me out with this, I'll paypal ya $10 for you time and help.