BONNARSKI

Tried the A1 and A2 dizzy's on a running B16a1, no good.

The A1 did nothing but the did spark but didn't start.

The funny thing was that when i took number 4 lead off, leaving the spark plug in the engine and using another to test for spark, and cranked the engine it tried to start.

When i put the lead back on it just cranked again.

Tested the CKP sensors in both and seem to be giving good readings of between the 350-700 ohm's their ment to.

What is the resistance readings for working TDC and CYP sensors just to rule them out of the equation.

BONNARSKI

Anybody?

BONNARSKI

This must of never happened anybody else who has owned a Honda then

BONNARSKI

Talking to a Honda head i know and he says he had this same problem and it was the ecu.

This sound familiar to anybody?

ymemag

Hey guys and gals! I'm new to the forum but in searching for help found this thread.

My del sol with b16a swap is doing something similar. So far, I had the car and ran it for over a year with no problems. I lost 5th gear in my S80 hydro tranny so I parked it for 5 years. 3 weeks ago I resurrected the car, clean fluids, plug wires, plugs, air filter, clutch and brake sensor buttons, steering wheel, and requisite seat covers. The car started perfectly for about a week then problems. I can hear the pump prime, turn the key and for about 1 second the engine makes normal sounds to crank but then goes high pitched. It sounds very similar to the description presented above. It will eventually fire but it sounds like it is running on 2-3 cylinders instead of 4. After a few seconds it will "wake up" and run normally. It will start normally until it cools down, which it then goes through the weird crank sound again. The time to get it to run normally, when it is running on 2-3 cylinders, is progressively getting longer. This morning it took over a minute of bad firing to get it to run correctly. I have tried:
- "jabbing the throttle" to get it to run badly, warm up, and run well.
- pumping the throttle which doesn't seem to work as well as holding it down
- priming several times before turning it over, no difference

Again, like the previous posts, the car ran fine. The difference here is mine will run fine after a small amount of what seems like "warm up" time. No wiring was changed and the car has over 130k on it from me.

I can post a video, pictures, anything that might help someone help me figure this out..... Thanks!

ymemag

*Update* just went out after it had time to cool off from the drive in to work.

The engine turned twice normally then did the usual. I had two people watching the motor (in the rain lol). When the engine switched from running terribly to running normally they both heard an audible "click". It ran perfectly after the click.

One other side note is my VTEC doesn't seem to be kicking in. I have checked the oil and it is near the full mark. VTEC worked 2 weeks ago.... Very curious what could cause VTEC to stop working might be tied to it running like it has bad timing.

ssjr0498

Had a similar issue with my b16 (swapped, earlier had a obd2 d15sohc vtec), turned out to be multiple issues,

1. Wiring to 2 of the injectors had issues (were chipped),
2. The connection from the ecu to the MAP sensor had somehow gone loose.
3. TPS wire got cut (engine bay side)

All of the above problems happened one after the other, not simultaneously. But in all of the cases above,the car felt exactly like how you've described.

I solved 1, the car ran fine, one night with the gang the car just died on me with 0 throttle response, wouldn't fire up! Saw the readings on the s300, no MAP. Fixed that, some other night had issue no 3. Re did the whole wiring, she runs perfect now.

Would suggest, check the wiring very carefully for any cuts!!

ymemag

OK just got it fixed. I read all of the above posts very carefully as well as several other from other threads. One thing I wasn't sure on was the IACV, what it does, where it was, and how to clean it. I found another post with most of the info and followed the instructions. I removed it, sprayed it with carb cleaner, waited for it to dry, then reattached it. The car immediately started to run correctly and there was no "click". I think that was the big give away, the click was the stepper motor moving finally. It now runs perfectly! Going to research VTEC more, I thought I remembered VTEC kicking in at 4400 RPM and not 5-6K... Thanks to all of you for your posts and help.

ymemag

The problem came up again 2 days later. I cleaned the IACV again, this time using almost a whole can of carb cleaner. Worked! Now getting upwards of 30mpg in fourth gear on the way to and from work. Now to fix my tranny....