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B20z
84.5x89
weisco 14-1 forged Pistons,
skunk 2 forged rods,
fully balanced bottom end,
b18 c6 type r head,
diy polished & ported head,
skunk 2 pro 3 cams, dialed in to spec,
skunk 2 pro series springs,
skunk 2 pro series retainers,
skunk 2 lma's
bosch 470cc injectors,
toda cam gears,
jenvey 48mm itb's,
skunk 2 megapower tri-y header,
3" exhaust.
car made 262bhp &173ft lbs torque
engine is in a classic mini and previously ran a 11.8 at 111.5mph and only had 230bhp at the time
RDX 410cc injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 93oct from shell
Tuned by Alex @ Granite State Dyno in NH on a DynoJet
217whp/151ft-lbs on the best pull.
No 1/4 mile times worth gloating about... second hit at the track went 13.8 @ 101, spinning and throwing up oil all over the track due to my catch-can.
RDX 410cc injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 93oct from shell
Tuned by Alex @ Granite State Dyno in NH on a DynoJet
217whp/151ft-lbs on the best pull.
No 1/4 mile times worth gloating about... second hit at the track went 13.8 @ 101, spinning and throwing up oil all over the track due to my catch-can.
217 seems very low for what you're working with.. what tunigt do you have? My setup is pretty close to yours, BC4 cams, 84mm RS Machine ITR pistons, Omni Power valve train (flat valves) with s300 and I'm shooting for over 250.. going to Delacruz to have it tuned in a couple weeks. I'm in Bangor ME btw lol
I'm using Hondata S300V2 with a very restrictive exhaust, pump gas 93oct, and we kept the timing conservative overall.
250WHP would be a stretch as most setups barely get to 240-ish with E85 and higher compression.
I was kinda thinking your exhaust had something to do with it. I'm running Torco on top of 93. It's a fully built GSR head with S2 IM and S2 TB and BC4 like I said with full Omni Power VT.. ARP all thru it also. It's gonna spin 9-10k at Delacruz and I can almost guarantee 250 but the proof will come after of course. B16 trans, MFactory LSD, fidanza 7.5, single drive crank pulley, walbro 255, aem rail, rc440 injectors, big tube smsp rep ,PWJDM power chamber. Built to exceed 200 wheel definitely 220-230. It's about 13:1, 275-280 psi per cyl as of yesterday when I checked it
Update on my setup, tomorrow is dyno time at Delacruz Motorsport in Pelham NH. Ill post my results as soon as i get a chance. Was planning on running torco on top of the 93 but cant find any so it looks like its gonna be straight 93.
----Block and Trans:
84mm Stock sleeved B20B from HMOTORSONLINE
RS Machine ITR rep pistons
Stock rods with ARP bolts
ACL bearings
Fidanza 7.5 lb flywheel
VMS single pulley
ARP head studs
B16 transmission with LS 5th
MFactory LSD
GSR water pump
----Head and everything else:
GSR head port n polished
Buddy Club 4 cams
Omni Power Flat valves
Omni Power Dual springs
Omni Power Retainers
Blox LMA's
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
Password:JDM Carbon power chamber
AEM fuel rail
RC 440 injectors
NGK 8 plugs
NGK blue wires
Walbro 255 pump
Hondata s300 V3
AEM wideband
Cusco catch tank off block port
SMSP rep big tube header
Skunk2 Megapower RR 3" no cat
Cometic head gasket
Hondata intake gasket
Golden Eagle conversion kit
Mishimoto full size radiator
Blox slim fan
Spoon SW388 16x7"
Falken RT615K 205/40R16
Update on my setup, tomorrow is dyno time at Delacruz Motorsport in Pelham NH. Ill post my results as soon as i get a chance. Was planning on running torco on top of the 93 but cant find any so it looks like its gonna be straight 93.
----Block and Trans:
84mm Stock sleeved B20B from HMOTORSONLINE
RS Machine ITR rep pistons
Stock rods with ARP bolts
ACL bearings
Fidanza 7.5 lb flywheel
VMS single pulley
ARP head studs
B16 transmission with LS 5th
MFactory LSD
GSR water pump
----Head and everything else:
GSR head port n polished
Buddy Club 4 cams
Omni Power Flat valves
Omni Power Dual springs
Omni Power Retainers
Blox LMA's
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
Password:JDM Carbon power chamber
AEM fuel rail
RC 440 injectors
NGK 8 plugs
NGK blue wires
Walbro 255 pump
Hondata s300 V3
AEM wideband
Cusco catch tank off block port
SMSP rep big tube header
Skunk2 Megapower RR 3" no cat
Cometic head gasket
Hondata intake gasket
Golden Eagle conversion kit
Mishimoto full size radiator
Blox slim fan
Spoon SW388 16x7"
Falken RT615K 205/40R16
Here's my Dyno results. Was a good day. Thanks to Steve at Delacruz Motorsports in Pelham, NH. He's said the Dynojet he has reads low. But I'm super impressed with the ourcome! 231 and 154. 8800 rev limit, VTEC at 5500 and pump gas 93.
JE Pistions, 84.5mm wide, 12.5:1 ratio
Egale H beam rods
Buddyclub racing cam with springs, retainers, adjustable cam gears
Cometic b20 - b16/b18 headgasket
stock b20 crank
stock bolts ons with a aftermarket fuel rail and regulator
tuned at 127kw with crome, fully stock internally before i pulled it apart to rebuild
hopping for 200kw/260hp
once built, it'll be a weekender and track car.
currently got a LSD with a solid center clutch.
will post again once its built and dynoed
Question for the guys who rebuilds their blocks.say your block goes out.and you need a new one.would you pick a B20 block over the b18c if you can grab them for the same price?
Question for the guys who rebuilds their blocks.say your block goes out.and you need a new one.would you pick a B20 block over the b18c if you can grab them for the same price?
I like the modularity of the B18C1 over the B20. No need for a LSVTEC kit, and I can always use a B20/LS crankshaft to gain torque. It would be about 20lbs-ft less due to the slight smaller bore (3'm) but I'll take that modularity over the betting a B20 any day
Mostly street use.my car is acting up and someone says it needs a new block but i don’t think it does.but im wondering if he does come down to that.would it be better to slap on a vtec block that was suppose to be on there in the first place.mostly looking for reliability or go for b20?if I were to pick the b20 I’d want to upgrade the pistons to itr to make it atleast last.if the b18c then it’s staying stock.by the way they built this My b20 vtec motor doesn’t look like it’s lasting
if I were to pick the b20 I’d want to upgrade the pistons to itr to make it atleast last.if the b18c then it’s staying stock.by the way they built this My b20 vtec motor doesn’t look like it’s lasting
wait a sec, the pistons are not the reason they fail. It’s cracked sleeves due to rpm and or lean tune/excess timing.
The jerking and hesitation and pebble ratting in a can noise when on the gas almost perfectly describes pinging and detonation which could cause you to crack your sleeves. You need to tune that out ASAP before you hurt it.
Mild cracked sleeve could look like a blown head gasket, I had a cracked sleeve that drove totally fine, mixed no fluids but overheated once in a while. If you’re unlucky you’ll grenade the block. Do a compression test first and if it’s okay fix your tune and just keep using what you have.
The jerking and hesitation and pebble ratting in a can noise when on the gas almost perfectly describes pinging and detonation which could cause you to crack your sleeves. You need to tune that out ASAP before you hurt it.
Mild cracked sleeve could look like a blown head gasket, I had a cracked sleeve that drove totally fine, mixed no fluids but overheated once in a while. If you’re unlucky you’ll grenade the block. Do a compression test first and if it’s okay fix your tune and just keep using what you have.
fluids all good.does not over heat.i had someone check in a shop but I didn’t see myself that they did the compression but hey were the ones who told me I needed a new block.its tuned on hondata.i brought the car in before to get it checked out and since then that’s when it started
The jerking and hesitation and pebble ratting in a can noise when on the gas almost perfectly describes pinging and detonation which could cause you to crack your sleeves. You need to tune that out ASAP before you hurt it.
Mild cracked sleeve could look like a blown head gasket, I had a cracked sleeve that drove totally fine, mixed no fluids but overheated once in a while. If you’re unlucky you’ll grenade the block. Do a compression test first and if it’s okay fix your tune and just keep using what you have.
when you say a mild cracked sleeve did a compression test pick it up? My b20 was perfect then it spun a bearing, I rebuilt it and since then the temp seemed to run a little warmer than it did and the pipes seemed hard, So I took head off had head checked and was all good, and very closely inspected the sleeves and I’m 100% happy there are no cracks. I put it back together and it’s no different. It generally sits around 90degrees but if I give it some it can quickly go up to around 100degrees but comes down again no problems, I have a 1.1bar rad cap and at no point does it spit any water out.
do you think I’m ok and just being paranoid? Just as a heads up this engine is in a Austin mini and has a lot less room around the engine.
08-14-2017, 09:22 AM
Re: ***Official All-Motor Stock Sleeve B20VTEC Thread***
