Eric R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael Delaney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The statement that he shouldn't have advanced because it falsefies the gain attributable to the intake alone is more of a sign of inexperience.
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With all the respect you may deserve, I don't realy think you're qualified to judge my experience. The point is, he's comparing the performance of intake "A" to the performance of intake "B", supposedly, under the same conditions. He should not touch the timing at the distributor, period.

In other instance, he may readjust the fuel pressure to correct the A/F ratio. Therefore, obtain a gain or a loss in performance.

Eric

SMSP

Static air flow on a dyno does not equal a good test platform for a CAI.

With a correction factor of 1.23 don't loose any sleep over your numbers just look at the differences and they will be less for you since your O2 content sucks at 6100 ft. You just don't have the O2 we do down near sea level.

Michael Delaney

we know that even in part throttle tuning where at least the engine is loaded at increasing increments and not steady state, the dyno lacks the air flow you experience while the car is moving. So a dyno sometimes will miss some flat spots that you otherwise would experience while the car is moving.

as your rpms increase, the intake flow should increase as well up to your peak torque which co-incides with your peak volumetric efficiency.

a constant velocity intake (contant diameter) will not generate high flow early in the mid rpms.

a tapered diameter intake like the J's will generate higher flow earlier but the compromise is that you saturate the "chamber" at an ealier rpm. The upper rpms suffer (even if the car is moving). The diameter is just too small. You're creating your own restrictor plate in a sense.

The story may be different if you lower your displacement.

The nosedive in af ratio to a too rich range after 6400 rpm should be a flashing red alarm light to people who do HPDE and like to live above 6000 rpm a lot.

Eric R: you compare optimized tuned packages. Package A (baseline with stock intake) should be TUNED to the best performance possible. Then you add package B (J's intake) and TUNE the new package to it's best performance. That sir, tells you what the J's does.

You must look at whether the powerband improved for the gearing that you have...not what the peak whp gained only. In an ITR tranny, you should know where the rpms land after each upshift in each gear...if you don't know what that is by now, you will not be judging whether a new part is actually helping you or not.

Dave: wouldn't mind being at sea level in Hawaii right around now....cheers

Racebrewer

Michael,

If you were going to fabricate an intake from scratch, what would you do? I'm looking for a spring project and I have a lathe available.

Thanks for any input!

John