C-Speed says nothing about cutting off elec. to the distributor. Is this neccesary? Also, can't I just unclip the two gray clips attached to the dist. instead of dicking around w/ the coil? TIA

Ryan, who appreciates C Speeds How to's, although wish they were a bit more descriptive.

 

Just pull the ECU fuse and crank away.

 

and make sure you keep your foot on the throttle. You want the T.B. plate open.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just pull the ECU fuse and crank away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is this fuse located, I don't have a cover on my fuse box? Anyone? TIA

 

i removed the fuse that cuts FUEL, not ecu.. as shown below

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i removed the fuse that cuts FUEL, not ecu.. as shown below

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but you can fry your coil if you don't cut power to the distributor also. Everybody has their own opinion on how to go about this.

 

better safe than sorry

I pulled the plugs from mine, and had no issues.

 

let us know the #s when you get done

 

Another way is to just pull the injector clips off. The whole point is not flood your car with fuel while you're cranking it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> let us know the #s when you get done</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will do, hoping this misshift hasn't caused any bent valves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another way is to just pull the injector clips off. The whole point is not flood your car with fuel while you're cranking it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


ditto.. i just pulled the injector wires off too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Will do, hoping this misshift hasn't caused any bent valves </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you notice a bumpy idle? Give us your numbers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you notice a bumpy idle? Give us your numbers </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by bumpy? It seems a little rough although it idles exactly where it should around 800 w/o lights 1100 w/ lights.

 

bumpy as in abnormal idle issues... If it idles normally around 800 then you should be fine. But to play on the safe side about misshifting, i'd still recommend that you get compression numbers first and we can help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lost Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bumpy as in abnormal idle issues... If it idles normally around 800 then you should be fine. But to play on the safe side about misshifting, i'd still recommend that you get compression numbers first and we can help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, all the help is appreciated. I'm very confident the comp. test results will be normal, the car never went above 9,000 rpms and it seems to be running fine. I'm waiting to do the compression test as I just ordered some fresh NGK's and want to install them at the same time.

 

If it never went over 9k rpms than you are more than fine. I make power up to 9k with my turbo setup with a complete stock ITR motor.