lienail

Hi guys I got JDM ITR swapp to acura 1999, I noticed that my battery was draining that fast. I checked the alternator its giving me only 12.30 volts while engine is running, so I thought its alternator problem I do replaced the alternator with another JDM alternator and seems to be samething 12.35volts. The garage said the alternator is no good,but when i go to alternator shop to fix my alternator that was replaced they said its running well on their machine with 13.8volt. do you guys have any idea whats the real problem? any thoughts will apreciated. thanks

1998GsRIntegra

Replace the battery. The alt. is not your issue.

racebum

x9,752,987,123

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

You can make a night-time visual check of the alt.

At night with the hood open, look at the alt, as a buddy increases the rpm from idle to about 3,000. If you see any sparks, at all. The alt is bad.

The next option is to make yourself a $10 resestor rig. I have one and will check the size of the resistor (but I think that it's a 10W 1 ohm). Do a parasitic voltage drop check, of your fuses. It's quite easy and clean work.

lienail

I do replaced my battery with new one still same problem

lienail

what this no. represent? no idea..

lienail

I did the test in alternator and no sign of sparks found.

1998GsRIntegra

If the battery is new and the alt. is good you have a parasitic draw.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

I corrected the size of the resistor, in my 1st post.
I looked at mine and it is a 10 watt, 1 ohm resistor.

You will need a dc volt meter, some tape (or solder) and about 15 feet of speaker wire.

Make your resistor legs longer, with the speaker wire.
Ie...one resistor leg gets the stripped speaker wire and the other resistor leg gets the unstripped speaker wire.

Parasitic draw test:

1. remove the neg. cable from your battery.

2. connect one leg of the resistor to the neg cable, and don't let the big neg cable touch the battery.

3. connect the other leg of the resistor, to the neg post of the battery. Remember, don't let the big neg cable touch the battery.

4. turn the car's key to accessory.
You won't be able to start the car so don't try, as 18 guage speaker wire isn't thick enough to carry several hundred amps to the starter.

5. turn on the meter (to dc volts) and put it across the resistor.
*note...In a perfect world you would read zero dc volts, but your ECU has to have a few millivolts on it at all times, and a couple of other items will need some millivolts.
The total of all of these voltage draws/drops will only amount to, about, .003 and .002 dc volts.

6. read the meter and pull any fuse out, to see if the meter changes.

7. as you continue to pull fuses, sooner or later one fuse will show a big change in voltage, like .033. That is the fuse that you need to look up in the manual.

I did this test to my Ford van. I found out that the GEM, which "times out" my courtesy equipment, was not removing .042 dc volts from my wipers and my windows. So, with the key in my pocket, I could push the button and make my windows go up or down. I could turn the wiper **** and the wipers would work.

lienail

Thanks guys for the speedy reply, however I did found the main problem. I put my multimeter in the battery while the engine is running and its read 12.3 volts as was before then I tried to touch/pull the harness wire that connected to the alternator, its jump to 14.5volts. I did verify the alternator connector and ground its good but as soon I slightly pull the main wiring of it the one under the manifold intake I'm getting the right voltage and when I released it it will come back to 12 volts. What you guys think about this? since the wiring is a bit hard to reach,whats my best option here? do I have a cut wire or a shorted wire? thanks again in advance.

SpoonREVS

sound like the harness is making contact with the intake manifold, typical problem with the civic they have a braket that goes from the block to the intake manifold that touches the harness and creates a short. check to see where its touching might have a issue with one of the wires in the spot.

lienail

The harness wiring is closed with a wrapparound black plastic,i dont know what you called that with electrical tape around it. cant see any wire that direct contact with it.

1998GsRIntegra

Yep, honda actually put out a TSB a long time ago for the civics noting that problem.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Wow..smh, you need to check the clips inside of the harness plug. As you have allready found your problems. I seen alot of harnesses that the wire is broken inside and looks good cause the insulate is still attached to the plug. You do not need a new battery as of yet. I would source a new plug and solder a new one on. You have 4 wires on the alternator plug. Ecu-white/red, ecu control-white/green, igniton- black/yellow, cluster- white/blue. The ecu only tells the alternator to kick in when the lights are on or the eld says so. Other then that the alternator regulator does the job without the ecu help. Most issue are blown fueses and the alternator does not know to come on. Fix that and your good to go.

If you have not ran the battery down to a flat dead state. It might not have been damage and might not have any memory of it which leads to a bad battery. Or dead cells.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Not true, Do you know how much of a draw it would take to make the car show 12 volts at idle!

Not true in all cases. Depends on the load. I have 2 alternators that are 250 amp each and when I burp my system. It will show a slight spark. Normal.

holmesnmanny

Turn on the lights and see if the voltage goes up instead of down.