Thanks for all the replies and comments.


I guess I'll be stickin to the NA game. I just LOVE the sound of a turbo spooling and the BOV, but I also love the sound of a motor Screaming at 9000rpm.

 

i agree. i noticed your setup and i know ive seen your dyno before. could you post the sheet up hear? i have almost the same setup:

apexi filter
HKS cam gears
skunk2 stage 1's (not in yet)
dc jdm 4-1
carsound cat
apexi N-1
Rps clutch
skunk manifold with CAI(process of buying)
JIC FLT-A2 (be here tomorrow)
lightweight fly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JunIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree. i noticed your setup and i know ive seen your dyno before. could you post the sheet up hear? </TD></TR></TABLE>




my usdm DC 4-1 header and stock cat are gonna be replaced by DTR header soon hopefully. I already picked up a OBD2-1 Harness, and need a chipped p28 ecu. But before that, I'll be upgrading my valvetrain so I can rev safely up to 9000rpm. I know for sure my car makes power past the stock redline.


Maybe down the line, I'll get some pistons too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkMonkeY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd stick with N/A. If you ask me turbo is the easy way out, it takes a real tuner to squeeze that much natural power from that little cuisinart! I respect people who get mad power out of purely tuned engines. GO WIT DA MOTAH</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you think that tuning a turbo car is a cake walk then you are mistaken IMO
turbos are a good way to get lots of power but they are by no means easy

 

good numbers. how did the skunk manifold feel after you put it on? was it before or after the cams?

 

Boost dude. You wont regret it.

My JRSC kit will be up for sale soon if anyone is interested.

 

FI is best band for the buck period. All the $ you guys spend on expensive head work, huge *** cams, pistons, expensive header, Leads to a quick car, but no more room to grow.

Turbo has endless potential, but you can stay conservative too. Turbo is not unreliable, its the builder and owner that can make it unreliable, just as any setup can be reliable or unrelibale. Dude honestly do you want to spend alot of money on na parts that still don't add the power that 1psi does. Get the turbo, and then mod it to handle the boost and make the power you want whether you want minimal or alot of power. Come over and research more in the FI forum and there are plenty of knowledgable members that will help you out. To each his own, but if you come to the darkside you'll never go back

 

If you want alot of power and you mostly do 1/4 racing then turbo is the way to go, even with a greddy kit integras are fast. If you like to do auto-x or an occiasional windy road, NA power is easier to work with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want alot of power and you mostly do 1/4 racing then turbo is the way to go, even with a greddy kit integras are fast. If you like to do auto-x or an occiasional windy road, NA power is easier to work with. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for restating my post..j/k man. very true. if you have ever seen some of the touge's on best motoring, you will see that handling and driving are just as important as powerband and delivery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JunIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for restating my post..j/k man. very true. if you have ever seen some of the touge's on best motoring, you will see that handling and driving are just as important as powerband and delivery</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, you car is too far along with your N/A plans to boost it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

stay with NA man. for some reason i just have this anti-turbo honda thing. i recently got a chance to drive my homeboy's turbo B16A EG and i have to say it was a rush. however, i don't think it was any better than the rush you'd prolly get with a dope NA setup and some agressive tuning.

NA

 

BOOST IT!!!!!!

then sell me your skunk parts.

 

whats so great about DTR headers? never really heard of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calavera &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats so great about DTR headers? never really heard of them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They're one of the High Quality header like SMSP and Header-tech headers. If you search for "DTR" you'll see some threads with dyno's making 10-15wHP gains OVER their JDM 4-1 header. Now thas JUICE!

 

nm, yeah I just read a bunch of posts on DTR headers. a hefty $1075 price tag.

I didn't see a header for GSR though. just b18c5's, lsvtecs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calavera &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nm, yeah I just read a bunch of posts on DTR headers. a hefty $1075 price tag.

I didn't see a header for GSR though. just b18c5's, lsvtecs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeap. $875 for the mild steel and $1075 for the SS header. Pretty pricey.

Also, Danny does make headers for the GS-R.

 

Well...most importantly...how fast do you want to be?

 

Can you sell your car? You should just do that and get a stock turbo ride.

 

I'd stick with all motor if I were you. Just because you started on your way towards it already anyway. It seems more ideal too if you drive daily and also want to auto-X your car. I think both are dope though. Sometimes I wish I had a turbo for those times when you really just want to show off. Nothing like driving by a group of people all slow and letting the BOV hiss. To floss an NA car, you actually have to drive WOT so people hear it...hahaha. Oh and one other thing, how much whp do you think a FWD could actually handle? It'd be pretty sweet to have a car with 300+ whp, but how functional is that?

 

might as well finish up what you started, stick with NA.

 

I am in NO WAY trying to put all the attention on myself, but I'm possibly gonna be in this predicament next year. By then my car will have ~190K on it. That's time for a rebuild. Now, on an older engine, would N/A be better, since you're gonna have to replace alot of the part either way? I guess I'm asking if any of ya'll's opinions would change if his car were mine, and it was stock?

 

I'll buy your skunk 2 stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll buy your skunk 2 stuff </TD></TR></TABLE>

No! Buy my skunk2 cams!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=651945

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeap. $875 for the mild steel and $1075 for the SS header. Pretty pricey.

Also, Danny does make headers for the GS-R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a headertech header. Makes 12hp over the JDM DC 4-1 and it's around 650-700 bux.