B00ST2nR

**** it. I've been bitten by the bug too. I was an All-Motor guy but now I'm gonna sell my parts and get a Turbo kit for my 2000 GSR. I'll be browsing these forums alot often now, so treat me like a family.

I'm a Turbo NOOB so I'll be asking around alot of questions. Please be nice. It's not like you're born knowin the Turbo ****.

Anyways... let me give some info about my car first.

2000 Integra GSR with the following performance mods:

- Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
- Skunk2 Cam Gears
- Skunk2 Intake Manifold
- ITR AEM CAI
- USDM DC 4-1 header
- Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion Exhaust
- Apex'i VAFC
- Benen 3 Point Strut Brace
- B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
- AEM Hi-Flow Fuel Rail


I also have a Header-Tech header, Skunk2 valvesprings / retainers, chipped p28 ecu with OBD1 harness, and an ACT XACT Prolite flywheel I was gonna install before I changed my mind to go Turbo.

Now I'm either gonna get a Greddy Turbo kit w/ Intercooler kit or a Turbonetics (Fmax) Turbo kit. I don't wanna do anything too extreme. I just wanna run 7-10lbs of boost. My goal will be to hit 250-300wHP and be RELIABLE!

Now I know some of my NA parts will need to go.

HELP ME ANSWER SOME QUESTIONS PLEASE!!

I'm gonna put GS-R cams back in since Skunk2 Stage 1's are too big to boost with. Now should I still use my Skunk2 cam gears or will the Stock cam gears work fine with the Turbo setup? Will adjusting the cam gears on the GS-R cams when tuning give me better gains or will it be the same as using stock cam gears at TDC?

I'm selling:

Skunk2 Stage 1 cams - GS-R cams will replace them
Header - Turbo manifold will replace it
AEM CAI - Charge pipe will replace it
chipped p28 ecu - Won't need to rev to 9000rpm with a Turbo
Skunk2 Valvesprings/Retainers - Won't need to rev pass 8000rpm
ACT XACT Prolite flywheel - 8.8lbs Flywheel is too light for a turbo setup

How does that sound? About right to you?


Also, the Greddy kits say 96-99 GSR's. Why not the 00-01 GSR's? I know the exhaust is SLIGHTLY different from 96-99 GSR's. Is that why? Will the kit work anyways with my 2000 GSR? Also, I have a Skunk2 Intake Manifold which sits higher than the stock GSR Intake Manifold. Will the charge pipe from a GSR Turbo Kit fit with the Skunk2 IM?


Now my biggest question:

Will it be OK and Reliable for me to boost 7-10lbs with Stock internals with 91 octane gas? I don't wanna build the internals (sleeves, pistons/rods, etc.) because it'll cost me TOO much money. I'm most likely gonna get a thicker head gasket from Cometic, ARP Head studs, and block guards and that's about it. 7-10lbs should be ok right?


So basically my setup will look something like this:


2000 Integra GS-R with:

Greddy Turbo kit w/ Intercooler (7-10lbs of boost)
Cometic Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Block Guards
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M FPR
Tanabe Hyper Medallion Exhaust
Apex'i VAFC

And then I'll be off to the Dyno for some tuning.


I know a Hondata or AEM ems will be better for tuning, but my VAFC is already plugged and ready to be tuned with my stock ECU. An S2000 with a turbo kit used a VAFC for tuning and pulled over 400wHP. So I think I'll be using the VAFC.


Fill this turbo noob some knowledge. Thanks!

hadboosttroy

1.) Keep the skunk2 cam gears, you can adjust the gsr cams for gains.

2.) The greddy kit will work, just the downpipe is not a direct fit. I am pretty sure the blue box will run fine as well on the 00-01's.

3.) Keep the 8.8 flywheel, you will build boost faster. I don't understand why people think light flywheels are bad for f/i cars.

Good choice on the greddy kit, i plan to boost my 01 gsr with it as well.

B00ST2nR

ok... so keep the skunk2 cam gears. Got it.

I talked to some people, and they're telling me a thicker headgasket, block guards, and head studs aren't really needed if I plan to boost 10psi or under. If this is true, I would really like to leave my internals alone. I don't wanna crack the head open.

hadboosttroy

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with a block guard period, but thats just me. If you have the know how then I would do the headgasket and studs for peace of mind. However I dont, and would have to pay someone so i wouldnt But if you have the cash by all means do it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok... so keep the skunk2 cam gears. Got it.

I talked to some people, and they're telling me a thicker headgasket, block guards, and head studs aren't really needed if I plan to boost 10psi or under. If this is true, I would really like to leave my internals alone. I don't wanna crack the head open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

B00ST2nR

hmmm... I'm seriously considering the Spoolin Performance turbo package.

for $3000 you get installation, FMIC, RFL BOV, 2.25 to 2 inch charge piping, brand new garrett t3/t4 turbo, tial 38MM wastegate, 2.5 downpipe, hondata S200B, seimen deka 440CC injectors, dump tube, ss oil feed/return line

How's this sound folks? This on a 2000 GSR @ 10psi with stock internals but Tuned. Sound ok?

hondalawnmower

i would keep these parts:

chipped p28 ecu - Won't need to rev to 9000rpm with a Turbo
Skunk2 Valvesprings/Retainers - Won't need to rev pass 8000rpm
ACT XACT Prolite flywheel - 8.8lbs Flywheel is too light for a turbo setup

I would also recommend the thicker head gasket and arp head studs just for insurance. I would get a block guard. It serves a purpose. That turbo package doesnt sound bad. What kind of manifold do you get with it? And i see that the turbo package doesnt include an upgraded fuel pump, make sure you get one, either inline or intank will do. I've been through 3 turbo setups, one on a built b16a and two setups on a single cam, and this summer, im going to help MugenGtr with a custom setup on a sohc vtec crx.

patdemps

walbro 255 fuel pump

also, i don't see a manifold there either on that setup. there are a number of good choices out there, are you going to be keeping your AC?....If so Inline Pro is a great choice (its a great choice even if your not keeping your ac )


shoot me a pm if you have any questions. i just went from a huge all motor setup to a tuned turbo setup. so your in the same boat as i was. trust me, your going to love your decision

T-RO

Yeah I say you keep the Chipped P28 and run Crome/Uberdata instead of getting the VAFC

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I say you keep the Chipped P28 and run Crome/Uberdata instead of getting the VAFC </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed...also don't limit yourself to boost numbers. Don't set your goal @ 10psi, If you want 300whp use that as your goal. the boost it will take to make it will vary with the kit (ie. you might need to run 13-15psi with a greddy kit compared to 10-12psi with a t3/to4e based kit), in th end 300whp is 300whp.

B00ST2nR

I'm gonna sell the VAFC and go with Hondata. The p28 ecu is chipped with a Custom All-Motor program. I don't think it'll be that great with a Turbo setup.


As for the head gasket, head studs and block guards... I really don't wanna open up the head. I wanna leave it intact the way it is. Again... I'm just gonna run 10psi, and I've heard ALOT of people boosting higher with stock internals for awhile. If it's necessary, I will go ahead and get those in, but if the stock internals are fine on 10psi, I'll most likely not.


And I forgot to add the Spoolin performance manifold on the list above. Pretty much their whole turbo kit, installation and Hondata. I'll most likely buy a Turbo Timer, Boost controller, and the guages elsewhere and get those in at the same time as well. Then I'll be off to DSR for some Dyno Tuning. After everything is up and running, tuned and reliable... I'll be one HAPPY man!

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm gonna sell the VAFC and go with Hondata. The p28 ecu is chipped with a Custom All-Motor program. I don't think it'll be that great with a Turbo setup.


As for the head gasket, head studs and block guards... I really don't wanna open up the head. I wanna leave it intact the way it is. Again... I'm just gonna run 10psi, and I've heard ALOT of people boosting higher with stock internals for awhile. If it's necessary, I will go ahead and get those in, but if the stock internals are fine on 10psi, I'll most likely not.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

not being a dick but did you read my post above? power dictates the limit of the stock internals, no psi. If your making 300whp @ 15 psi it is putting NO more stress on your internals than if your making 300whp @10 psi. Boost as a soild number is very relative (what size turbo, tune, etc) and essentially means nothing.

As for the ecu you can keep it, pull the Skunk 2 chip and have some local that knows uberdata/chrome burn your a chip. Your ecu is already socketed, you just have to pop the new chip in

hybrid93SIvic

in all honesty...you should get a thicker headgasket and the headstuds just for insurance.....the lower compression will be easier on your motor especially when you talk about running upwards of 10 pounds.....BTW gsr motors are excellent for boost

TRE_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

for $3000 you get installation, FMIC, RFL BOV, 2.25 to 2 inch charge piping, brand new garrett t3/t4 turbo, tial 38MM wastegate, 2.5 downpipe, hondata S200B, seimen deka 440CC injectors, dump tube, ss oil feed/return line
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that sounds like a really nice setup to me i had pretty much the same exact setup on my 2000 GSR motor and i loved it.

i'd do the cometic HG, and arp studs just to be safe, but for 10psi you dont really "need" a block guard. 10psi, tuned, with hondata, and everything else you listed will yield some really nice numbers, and be super safe.

good luck

The Crow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid93SIvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in all honesty...you should get a thicker headgasket and the headstuds just for insurance.....the lower compression will be easier on your motor especially when you talk about running upwards of 10 pounds.....BTW gsr motors are excellent for boost </TD></TR></TABLE>

For 10 psi I won't worry about a thicker headgasket.

fullracegsr

just throw the gsr cams back in the motor with the stock cam gears... they work great without messing with them... here was what my old setup was... it this thing moved out!!

stock gsr motor w/ arp headstuds...
fullrace stage 2 turbo kit...
440 injectors... vafc hack w/ fmu
act max extreme ckutch combo...
boosted 12.5 psi daily mostly on race gas...
see sig for et numbers...

you can run 10psi on 93 octane and be fine... and to be honest you coudl run 12s with slicks at 10psi... being that you 'll be getting hondata you be a step ahead of where i was...

Quad-Damag

go get a custom kit, contract philip at spoonin for price quotes

he does dam good work

B00ST2nR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go get a custom kit, contract philip at spoonin for price quotes

he does dam good work

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Already did. I plan to get the kit and installed by him.


He might just chip my current ecu with Uberdata or Crome, instead of Hondata tho.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Crow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For 10 psi I won't worry about a thicker headgasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And for anything above 10 psi I would never run a thicker headgasket. Messy head gasket jobs to install something that kills your quench for a false feeling of security are nothing I'd recommend to anyone.

B00ST2nR

also, I heard stock Headgaskets are one of the strongest ones out there.

91civicDXdude

keep the stage 1 cams.. dial out some of the overlap. the higher lift will help out. stage 1 cams are very mild.

keep the cam gears.

keep the valve springs and retainers.

keep the flywheel. i have an 8lb clutchmasters on my sohc vtec turbo setup and its awesome.

some people just repeat **** that they heard about turbo and have no idea what they are really talking about. IM running a comp 59300 cam on my sohc vtec on boost and it SCREAMS. .455/.430 lift, 220/216 duration.

its not the duration that causes problems, its the valve overlap which is a byproduct of longer duration. with cam gears you can dial this out and use the high lift to your advantage.

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the stage 1 cams.. dial out some of the overlap. the higher lift will help out. stage 1 cams are very mild.

keep the cam gears.

keep the valve springs and retainers.

keep the flywheel. i have an 8lb clutchmasters on my sohc vtec turbo setup and its awesome.

some people just repeat **** that they heard about turbo and have no idea what they are really talking about. IM running a comp 59300 cam on my sohc vtec on boost and it SCREAMS. .455/.430 lift, 220/216 duration.

its not the duration that causes problems, its the valve overlap which is a byproduct of longer duration. with cam gears you can dial this out and use the high lift to your advantage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but in the end hes still stuck with a stock bottom end which will lose daily reliability after 300whp. Why not just throw the stock GSR cams/gears back on (they are plenty proven on high hp b series) and sit on the $500+ you will get from selling the skunk's

patdemps

definately sell the skunk2 ****...no need for it. plus you'll have extra money kicking around.

the kit your looking at getting with the installation looks like a great deal, you'll be very happy with the results...

Quad-Damag

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Already did. I plan to get the kit and installed by him.


He might just chip my current ecu with Uberdata or Crome, instead of Hondata tho.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't buy a greddy kit, they are crap (Not crap but custom is so much better, the small 18g when u get use to ur kit, u will want more)

Go with a FULL Custom Kit, I wish i did this in the 1st place

Kit
spoolin Log Style Manifold
SC32 (T3/T4 of your choice of trim ask philip he gets deals on turbos)
with spoolin dumptube
Tail Wastegate 8 pound spring
spoolin 3 inch downpipe or 2.5 if 3 won't fit
Intercooler of your choice get one supporting 300 + hp (if ur poor like me jonnyracecar 6 inch is up to 300 or 350, if u don't plan on building
blow off valve HKS (LOVE MINE)
spoolin oil lines
boost gauge (anything but autometer)
etg gauge
Oil gauge *bitch to install ask philip*
spoolin charge pipes painted high temp heat black


all spoolin becuase philips work is the mad shitzzzzels


Will it be OK and Reliable for me to boost 7-10lbs with Stock internals with 91 octane gas? I don't wanna build the internals (sleeves, pistons/rods, etc.) because it'll cost me TOO much money. I'm most likely gonna get a thicker head gasket from Cometic, ARP Head studs, and block guards and that's about it. 7-10lbs should be ok right?

with the tail wastegate and a 8 pound spring, and some dyno time at DSR/DNR , u will be good to smoke most people, easyly 13's, 12 might be no prob with slicks

Run Urberdata or Hondata both great system.

also sell ur vfac unless u plan on going with the hack (Im not a huge fan of)

B00ST2nR

no no, I'm not gettin the Greddy kit. I'm gettin the custom turbo kit from Phil at Spoolin.

B00ST2nR

Also, I guess I'll be getting a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, but when I browsed around for it, I saw that they only had 94-99 Integra Applications. Will it work with a 2000 Integra? Also, what's the difference between High Pressure and Regular?