Well its that season we dread!...WINTER!....Dont have a beater so I have to drive m car....anyways I am going to be getting my car rust proofed soon...should I wax for the winter now or after the rust proof?

 

im not shure about that one. i would say after words. when you do look into a was called ZANIO im not shure of you spell it. if u have any questions about it just email me ill ask my dad. but all of the corvette guys love it. its better than liquid glass gr8_mvp@yahoo.com

 

define "rust proofing"

and wax afterwards (duh!) >> but you'll probably need a special wax for it.

 

Going to a Rust Check shop here that covers the car inside and out in dripless oil...

Something like that...Im just taking my car there...

 

i'm thinking after...not %100 sure on that one tho

 

hmm

I'm never hopped on the rust proofing thing.

I just wax the paint and be sure to wash the underbody a good deal (with soap). If something gets rusted or corroded then I'll deal with that particular piece.

 

how much does this "rust proofing" cost, also does it damage the paint

 

So you want to rust proof your car. You'll need to remove everything in order get ready to media blast (not sand blast, will hurt the panels) & remove all painted areas where the rust is.

COST $750 to $1000 for blasting

After that task is performed, you need needle blast all hidden areas of paint & rust to the bare metal. Then te metal can be preped for rust proofing with a sealant, PPG, STANDOX, DUPONT, ETC..... After that, take car of any dings, dents witha little bondo then use a primer. Then your ready to repaint & add your clear coat. This process ain't cheap friends. Just wanted to share.

Repaint Integra $3000.00 to $3500 (excluding engine bay)

Good luck

 

So you want to rust proof your car. You'll need to remove everything in order get ready to media blast (not sand blast, will hurt the panels) & remove all painted areas where the rust is.

COST $750 to $1000 for blasting

After that task is performed, you need needle blast all hidden areas of paint & rust to the bare metal. Then te metal can be preped for rust proofing with a sealant, PPG, STANDOX, DUPONT, ETC..... After that, take care of any dings, dents with a little bondo then use a primer. Then your ready to repaint & add your clear coat. This process ain't cheap friends. Just wanted to share.

Repaint Integra $3000.00 to $3500 (excluding engine bay)

Good luck

 

what are you guys talking about??????????????????????????

When your car is rustproofed, they drill access holes in you door jamb, rocker panels and back of the door and spray oil on the inside of the panels only. They use nice long rods and squigley hoses to spray the thin thin runny oil that runs into all the little cracks and crevaces.

They usually do the underside somewhat as well, depending on what kind of factory undercoat there is.

If you drive your car in lots of salt every winter, this is the only way to stop your car from rusting thru after about 10 years.

Makes no difference when you wax it, but might as well do it after, because you're going to want to clean off the exterior overspray anyway.

if its dripless, then it won't work, if its runny (like rust checks brand) and is doesn't seep out the weeper holes on the bottom of the door for a year, then they didn't put enough on.

I did oil spraying for a job last winter.

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DAVER...

Thats exactly what im talking about...cost about 100 cdn...

 

Somthing i'd recommend looking into, see if the shop does around the exterior mouldings, especially the windshield. I know the Krown dealership here doesn't, he says it dries out the rubber. Well, i'd sure rather a little dried out rubber than rust, like on my integra AND civic (took about 8 years to show around the windshield).

I they don't, just go buy a spray can of the stuff (rustcheck brand or whatever), get a rubber squeegie or spatula to hold back the rubber and spray some all aroudn the windshield and door handles and every moulding. Even if i didn't drive my car in winter i'd rustproof it, all cars rust, salt just speeds its up.

I have my work cut out for me pulling the windshield next spring to fix the rust, sand blasting the door bottoms, welding patches on the rocker panels, rear wheel arches and new patches behind the rear wheels so the the bumper will have somthing to attach too and stop hanging there. Still kicking myself for being cheap and not rustproofing it every year.

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Ontario weather + car enthusiast = oxymoron

 

Back when I purchased my GSR, I got some kind of rust proof done. And that was one of the stupidest thing I've spent my money on. The thing about rust is that your paint is already protecting the metal. The rust proof will not have anything to deal with the gaps where most of our Honda's rusting problem starts. Also rust starts when there is paint chips and scratch, which no rust proof can protect.

Conclusion - Wax your car regularly. Wash your car once a while in winter to get all the salt out. But DON'T wash your car too much.


[Modified by RedGSR, 10:56 PM 11/21/2002]

 

You know what too...the guy that owns the Rust Check shop i went to suggested i take off the rear fender liners...which i had already done!....because he said all hondas get rust in that area...and trap water...so if you havent taken it off...take them off now!....

he also said to always clean the dirt that accumulates around the fender where the rear bumper meets rear quarter panel....

Rust will always come...but these steps just slow it down

 

*cough*
http://www.hogens.com/car/default.ph...ning/index.php



Like I said. Just clean well and keep an eye on things.

 

Do you even live in a climate where they salt roads in winter? How old is your car? I gurantee you that the significant majority of rusting starts from the INSIDE out. Most of the damage is done before you even see it.

For rust to happen you need moisture, heat and oxygen of course. Add salt and i'm sure it magnifies it by 100x. The moisure (and salt) gets trapped in the door bottoms, rocker panels, behind door handles and underneath mouldings (and where the rear bumper fastens to the quarter panels - the absolute worst place for hondas) and just rots the metal. I have plenty of exterior stone chips that have been there for years and the rust is negligible (by comparison), because the exterior gets cleaned enough and is usually dry (try cleaning the crack on the inside of your door where the inner and outer skins are folded and welded).

When my cousin bought his 2000 civic he paid an extra 1g for a "good for life" rustproofing job; some yellow sticky stuff or somthing. Definately a waste of money. If its not wet it doesn't protect, if its not wet it doesn't run into all the cracks, if it runs then must be reapplied regularly (once a year)

When we put new body panels on cars, we always painted the inside first. They all came primed, but that alone won't properly seal the metal from moisture. that's all i can say, all else i could do is post pictures of rust damage from the three rusted hondas (1990 - '92s) in my driveway that have lived their lives bereft of rustproofing. As of last year, further progression has stopped dead.

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I wish Chicago doesn't snow. I had a 92 Civic which had no rust proof done to it. I took the penals out and looked at the inside. Looked brand new. There were a couple place where it started rusting. rear quarter panel and door jam.

 

what was the milage on that civic? I should take some pictures of my mothers high milage '92 civic and the amount of rust would make you faint. The only "panel" you can really take off is the fenders and all my honda fenders, even, are surprisingly immaculate (the plasic wheel well insert works good!). Its anywhere and everywhere around the back wheels along with the rocker panels that are the honda killers. Windshield surrounds are right up there too and doors are a distant third. ahve seen a few rotty hatch lids, but only on really old hondas. I believe the metal they used got much better in the '90s.

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