Im new in the honda world so my knowledge is very limited. I have a 97 integra GS-R and recently I have been experiencing some issues with the car mainly in V-TEC by way of it not engaging. I have a V-TEC controller but have had no issues up to this point at about 7000RPM the car will bogg out and not accelerate anymore almost like a fuel cut off or governor, but in neutral the car will only rev up to 6600-7000 and bounce almost like hitting a rev limiter and will then bogg down. I hooked the car up to a scanner and checked to see if the V-TEC solenoid was opening cause according to the controller it was and low and behold the scanner said otherwise. So please and insight will be greatly appreciated like I said my knowledge is very limited.

 

First of all welcome to H-T. Be sure to do lots of searching and reading because the wealth of knowledge here is plentiful Secondly, it's VTEC, not V-TEC, and most definitely not V-TECH (phone brand ). Just look at your valve cover.

You said you hooked up a scanner, were you getting any CEL trouble codes at any time? Are the intake secondary runner butterflies opening at the proper RPM, around 5750? VTEC should be engaging at 4400 rpm.

How is your oil level? Any smoking out of the tail pipe?

 

Oil level was perfect that was the first thing i checked like i can hear VTEC kick in at 4500 but the computer doesnt know its on.. No VTEC codes.. and a little smoke out of the tail pipe but seems like its just fuel no oil

 

Nah man, the ECU controls VTEC operation. So if you hear it activating at 4400, then it's the computer making it happen, and so it must be working properly. And no CEL codes just further proves that it's working properly.

 

did you forget to check your vtec fluid?

does your speed sensor work? it could be that

 

Than any ideas on the bogging out issue? And to why the scanner would say it's not on? I'm wondering if the VTEC controller is messing it up?

 

Could be. Why do you have a VTEC controller anyway? Do you have other engine mods that require moving the VTEC engagement point, and has it been dyno tuned for optimal engagement RPM? If the engine is basically stock, I would just get rid of the VTEC controller altogether, as it's totally unnecessary and could be causing these issues.

 

get rid of that piece of junk!!!

 

I have the skunk 2 pro air intake and after I installed that the VTEC engaged RPM was way sparatic so I wanted to make it more precise

 

wait, are you referring to the Skunk2 intake manifold? So you have no secondary butterflies now. How did you deal with not having those anymore?

 

Yea i got a new manifold To be honest I didn't. Any ideas on that?? I'm confused I guess on what they do? And why they are required like I have the stock throttle body.

 

Confused about what the secondary butterflies do? The stock B18C1 engine has a dual-runner intake manifold. Normally the air comes in through the longer runners during low RPM operation, for more low end torque. When you get up to 5750 rpm (after the VTEC system has engaged at 4400 rpm), the butterflies in the intake manifold open to allow the air to enter the engine through the shorter runners for more high end power. Normally on a GS-R the VTEC crossover is nearly imperceptible, but the intake butterflies opening is VERY audible just below 6,000 rpm.

The Skunk2 intake manifold is more similar to the B18C5 Type R's single-runner intake manifold. This is a more conventional single-runner intake manifold made for more high end power gains. To effectively make use of the Skunk2 manifold, you need something like a chipped ECU or piggyback system like Hondata to allow a dyno tuner to move the VTEC crossover higher up and also change fuel maps to compensate for changes in air flow. If you leave the VTEC engagement point at the stock 4400 rpm while using a single runner intake manifold, the engine will likely bog down until you get past 6,000 rpm or so.

I suggest looking through the All Motor forum as there is plenty of knowledge in there on this type of setup. Dyno tuning is also a must. You can't just go around blindly changing the VTEC crossover point.

 

Ok I removed the VTEC controller and it stopped bogging out and seems faster now. So you think like a hondata S200?

 

That's getting beyond my knowledge. Have a look around in the All Motor forum.

 

Alright thanks for your insight I'm going to have to look around for ecu's now I'm kinda curious if I can just get an ECU out of a type-r?

 

No. Wrong fuel maps for your valvetrain.

 

I do have the Greddy 4-2-1 exhaust manifold & Greddy EVO2 exhaust as well I was kinda wondering if upping the fuel pressure would help me any? cause i have high flow intake with the Skunk2 manifold and AEM V2 cold air intake.

 

Sounds like you're just throwing parts at the car. To really see HP gains you really need some dyno tuning.

jeez loweez can't anyone else chime in here with USEFUL info??

 

You need a chipped ecu. The p72 ecu that You have is tuned for a GSR Mani, You have the TypeR style. You have no butterflies so Get a chipped p28 and jumper harness and hit up a tuner.

 

Fixed all the issues I'm going to go dyno the car soon I found a dyno shop locally that will dyno my car for the price of lunch thanks for your help

 

If its for the price of lunch, make sure they know what they are doing.

Patrick, I Lol'd when I read one of your posts towards the end. Haha

 

Must be a very expensive lunch...

Did you even get an OBDI ECU yet?

 

Just to he thorough, check your fuel filter. Bogging under load but not in neutral could also indicate insufficient fuel flow right when you need it the most...

Good luck - Mark

 

Yeah seriously, if that's the price they charge everybody I'd be pretty skeptical. Good dyno time with a good tuner usually runs a few hundred bucks I think.