Motors don't care wether they are turned CW or CCW, the camshaft dictates the direction which it WILL operate.
2 cycle motors (as with golf carts) are simply started in reverse for reverse and do not have camshafts that dictate motor direction.
Oil pumps and water pumps have to be correctly matched with motor rotation.


The ONLY reason that one should not fully rotate an unattached cam and crank is that there ARE by design, SOME valves that are near full open wherever the cam is placed. This is the only concern that piston to valve conatct "could" occur and likely will if the crank were pushed past some difficult spot. The crank should NEVER be placed at TDC until the cams are properly alligned and held and should never be fully rotated untill the belt is installed.

Both of you were partly correct and the other part was cry baby ****.

 

Ya I think I understand what your saying. I don't want to rotate the crank the whole way around because a piston will hit a valve somewhere, because some valves will be open at the position the cams are at? correct? But turning the crankshaft a tooth or two wont hurt anything since im not going completely around, just a tiny amount. Am I correct?

 

You got it.

It might take a little finesse to line all the things up. The crank always wants to move when you're trying to put the stupid belt on. Just keep at it and double/triple check timing is 100% before putting it back together.

 

Sweet... ill check that thing like 6 times being my first time... lol

 

Good plan! Hopefully the timing components are new or have plenty of life? Belt, tensioner, front crank/cam seals (I'm sure the new oil pump came with a crank seal), water pump, tension spring. All good things to replace while you're all up in the car's gutz anyway.

 

Well my buddy did the timing belt literally right before I bought the car so it only has 1000 miles on it if that, and I guess he never did the water pump cause he gave it to me brand new so ill be putting that on, new oil pump, with the crank seal, new o ring and gasket where it connects to pickup coming tomorrow from Honda. I might get the belt tensioner as well. And ill prob get new spark plugs since I pulled those to make crank easier to turn... haha... Do I need to drain the coolant before pulling the water pump? I forget... haha

 

Yeah. Pull the block drain plug. It's a big 19mm head bolt that sits behind the header/manifold. It's closer to the trans side.

Just make sure you refill the block before turning it on. You can fill it via the upper rad hose. Remove the hose from the radiator and pour coolant down it (into the block).

Get a new tensioner and spring if it's old. You don't want that bearing seizing. I use bernardiparts.com for honda OE parts.

Coolant tips:
-Honda coolant works best
-Prestone 50/50 is 2nd choice.
-Peak is awful. Unless you like silted up cooling systems.

 

Alright... thanks for the help buddy... ill probably have another thread up soon as ill probably have another problem or question... haha... thanks again to everyone that helped out in this thread!

 

No problem. Good luck

 

Yes, finely a correct answer, instead of a pissing contest . 94