i have a b18b1 with a unorthodox pulley and aem cam gears and on my cam gears when i went to look at the timing i tried to line up the marks on the cam gears and but the in take was retarded by a tooth, but it runs fine or maybe not? could it run better if i fixed it when i get my new timing belt?

 

try getting the lines as close as possible, i dont really think it will make much of a difference though.

 

even being a tooth off? im new to the b series.

 

when i had changed my timing belt i couldnt get them to line up perfectly, i think it was a half tooth difference between them.

but it runs fine and strong

 

good to know. i appreciate the help man.

 

So I have the aem gears on my c1 and I've never been able to get them to line up either. I eventually bought a degree wheel kit and after all that, with it at exactly 0 the lines were off by half a tooth.

 

ANY ONE CAN HELP ME???I JUST WANNA KNOW IF THE SUB FRAME BRACE N LOWER CONTROL ARM FOR 94 INTEGRA CAN FIT ON 93 INTEGRA DA???

 

im pretty sure it wont, but try google

 

No, NOTHING on the front suspension will work on a DA from a DC. They completely changed the design of the suspension.

And I've got AEM 3 bolt timing gears on my LS engine and I can get them lined up perfectly. It's just kind of tricky. I found out that when you first put the timing belt on, it's best to actually have the intake cam rotated about one tooth counter clockwise compared to the exhaust. using a socket wrench on the cam gear bolt helps hold it there. Then when you have the belt on (still holding onto that wrench cause the springs will push the cam) use your other hand to hold tension on the belt, then use your leg on a breaker bar to rotate the engine counter clock wise to pull out some of the slack. What you'll find, is that by having the belt off by one tooth counter clock wise, actually ends up being perfectly aligned once the slack between the gears is pulled out. After you get to that point, get out as much slack as you can from the intake side. This whole time by the way, you have to use a hand to hold some tension on the belt, otherwise it'll jump the intake gear.

Once you get some of the slack out, continue rotating the engine around and pulling out any slack you run into as the engine rotates. Once you are certian you got it all out, go ahead and bring it back up to TDC cylinder 1 and it should be lined up perfect.


I'm sure a lot of this work isn't needed, but my head has Rocket motorsports valve springs in them, and a gates racing belt, so the extra spring pressure and stiffness of the belt made the whole thing a bit tricky.

At first I would line up the gears to TDC, pop in some nails to hold them, and put on the belt. But no matter what I did, the intake gear always ended up being off one tooth clockwise. So I ended up making it off by one tooth counterclock wise, and the end result was perfect.

I also had to use a coat hanger to pull on my tensioner since the stock spring isn't strong enough and no matter what there was always way too much slack.

 

Lol I've been doing that for years. Back when I first started doing that, I told ppl about it on ht and I caught a lot of flack. Lemme see if I can find the post.

 

Lol man, I HAD to do it it. I couldn't figure out WHY my damn belt would not get the slack out like the stock one did, and figured that my heavy springs and stiff belt were the culprit. Went inside looking for something to use to grab it, found a coat hanger, bent the ever living **** out of it, and spent about 10 minutes trying to hook it. Once I had it hooked I loosened the tensioner, pulled it with all my strength and rotated the engine a little bit using my leg on a breaker bar, then used my one free hand to tighten the tensioner, then rotated the engine around a few times till I found a little more slack, and just kept doing that till there was none. Tightened it down to 40ftlbs (which is a LOT more than you would think. Using a standard 1/2 socket wrench it almost feels like it'll strip out the block)

So now my belt is slightly on the tight side, has a little bit of timing belt noise, but has very minimal deflection. IMO it's better to be a little on the tight side when you have stiff valve springs and a gates racing belt.

I found out while I was initially trying to tighten the belt that the valve springs are actually so heavy, that they tend to try and counter rotate the cams, that coupled with the fact that whenever I did it to what the specs are and the factory instructions are, I was having massive deflections, I figured it would be smarter to get every bit of slack out of the stupid thing as possible.

 

I do almost the exact same. I went through so many valves and a head cuz the belt wasn't getting tight and it would skip teeth. Eventually I realized the tensioner spring had rusted away to nothing inside the sleeve it was in.

 

I bent all my supertech valves in my built head because I didn't torque the tensioner enough. Didn't even ding my pistons though cause it managed to bump the cam out of interference after it bent them.

Then I had the timing belt come loose after replacing all the valves, and proceded to slap the **** out of the timing belt cover. After that I spent two hours making sure the belt was 100% perfect, just litterally rotating the engine by hand and feeling the belt tension throughout the entire rotation of the engine, then triple checked that it was actually torqued to spec (and not just tightened to whatever I think it should be)