I pulled my car out the other day and it runs like ****. Everytime I step on the gas it boggs down, like a plug/s is not firing. I changed the plugs, and I ran a bottle of dry gas a fuel injector cleaner through it, so it isn't the gas. What the hell could it be? Plug wires? There is also no moisture in the distributor cap. Can you help??
gouger32sover.net

 

What year is your ride? Does the bog go away when the RPMs pick up? My GFs '92 Accord was starting to bog upon initial throttle, but the bog went away after about 2K RPM. Turns out it was the EGR that needed servicing. A little more info on the topic.

Happens when:
Warm/cold/both?
Low RPM/high RPM/both?
Accellerating/Decellerating/both?

Is the car auto or 5-spd?

~JDMB16DA6~

 

I wouldn't call dry-gas an 'injector cleaner'... Use something like Techron.

You can check the plug wires... Take off the cover over the plugs, wait till after dark, turn off all the lights. Start the car & look for arcing or a dim blue glow around your plug wires. If you see this, then your wires and/or distributor cap are bad. This works better if the engine is really cold. Some people spray water from a windex bottle to make the arcing more visible.

Just cause there's lots of lawyers out there... Be careful you don't get shocked, especially if you've got a pacemaker or something.

 

Check the distributor cap and rotor. Take the dist. cap off and check for signs of dust, arcing on the tabs and burning on the rotor. As you drive your car more (especially when driven hard, w/ ignition system or w/ turbo), the gaps on the plugs increase, thus increasing the resistance across the plugs. Eventually, this resistance will back up and cause sparking in the distributor. Then kill the dist cap and rotor. You WILL be left on the road. (speaking from personal experience.)

I replace these every year as general mantenance. I don't recommend Honda OEM stuff. I like the NAPA cap and rotor. Honda rotors are made of fiberglass w/ a thin layer of metal in between. These burn out quickly. NAPA rotors are solid metal and less prone to burn out. Cost $35 cap, $25 rotor.

This goes away after 2k rpm because now you are making enough amps in the coil to overcome the resistance across the plugs and distributor.


[Modified by gsirnj, 4:05 PM 4/1/2003]

 

My Teg was doing the same thing. Only problem is, its Intermittent. Sometimes, after driving around on the freeway, my RPM will jump up then go straight down. The engine will bogg.. if i press on the gas.. the car will shake or stutter. If i get off the freeway and let the car chill for bout 30mins or so, then it will start up normally again. Could it be the distributor? the TPS sensor? I have already replaced the spark plugs and my wires are fine. Checked under caps and rotors, they are ok. baffled!?!

 

Since your tach goes nuts when this happens, I'd go for the ignition control module, the sensors in the distributor, or their wiring.

 

Try coating the leads on the ICM and Coil (Both located inside the distributor) with some dialectric grease. At one point, my car would not remain started after a cap/rotor replacement. Coating the leads fixed the problem, and the problem with a 'crazy tach' as it was described. If you need photos to follow, let me know!

 

I had this problem myself mine turned out to be the whole distributor unit. So i had to change it out!