slvrstns2000

Well i picked up a comepletly bone stock 95 special edition integra last week. 2 owner and only 150k on it. I notice a slight hesitation and kinda a rough idle so when i get it home i start by pulling wire off one by one to see if theres a change in idle and sure enough. Each one caused a change in the idle except for number 2! So i change plugs to factory ngk. Properly gapped. Bc i realized whoever did the last ones didnt gap them or have all the same brand/part number. So i got it back together and the hesitation went away a little bit but the smoke didnt and when i pull the wire off number 2 it still has no change in idle. So im thinking it could be fuel. So i ended up changing out injectors also. What could be wrong w it. Is it possibly a leaking headgasket and compression is my issue. Please let me know what u think it might be

Thanks
Dan

nospoolDC2

What color is the smoke?
First you need to figure out why its running on three cylinders. Check the cap and rotor if you haven't already to be safe. Do a compression test and if it comes out bad, do a leakdown test. If you can get it running on all cylinders and the compression is good still then it is probably your valve stem seals causing the smoke, assuming its oil smoke. Smoke is most likely from a bad headgasket or bad valve seals. Could be your piston rings too but I doubt it. The leakdown test will tell you.

meda215

I agree with nospool

slvrstns2000

Smoke is white w a little bluish tint. Smells like fuel in the smoke. Cap and rotor should be good. Im getting spark all the way throught the wires and to the plug. I was thinking of needing to do a comp test and or leak down test. Just been out of the honda scene for so long i feel like ive forgotten how to work on them.

JDL2Z

if the smoke is blue or white then the motor needs to come apart and put together with new gaskets and head bolts. and possibly valve stem seals or piston rings depending on the damage

MasterFunk

Blue/Gray Smoke: Bluish gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:

Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine turned off.

Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide will allow oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.

Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

PCV System: A stuck closed PCV system will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke exiting the tailpipe.

Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:

Fuel Injectors: A leaking fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.

Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.

White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:

Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.

slvrstns2000

So an update. Got the car to smoke at a min. A little at start up and thats about it. Next issue im having is in a rough idle. Almost seems like a misfire in #2 cylinder. I can pull the plug wires off and no change in idle. But i do get spark though the wire. I can also disconnect that injector and no change in idle. No check engine light. Nothing. Just a little rough and not so great mpg? Anythoughts on this

Thanks again for all the help

TheRealTegger

Most likely you have a broken ring and/or a scored bore.

But have you checked the valve clearances? There's a tiny possibility of an exhaust valve that's hanging open (and is now burnt) due to insufficient clearance. If that's the case, you may get lucky with just a head rebuild.

el crapitan

absolutely zero testing has been performed. aside from spark in open atmosphere. don't know why anyone would try and call this.
check for injector pulse at that cylinder. use a 194 bulb and peel the pins back to insert them in the injector socket. start the car. bulb should flash while running/cranking. injector drivers blow all the time. hell, did the plug have raw fuel on it? are you down any coolant? and if you're wondering, your o2 readings on a 1 cylinder dead misfire are going to cause a heavy rich condition guaranteed. since o2 is a product of the misfire, so the ecm believes the vehicle is running lean and so fattens up the mixture. would explain the smoke. just a possibility, among many

matter of fact, use an HEI tester to test for spark at that cyl. in the atmosphere, the spark can jump the gap like nothing. no resistance at all. inside the engine, with resistance of cyl pressure, the difference for that gap is actually comparable to about 3 inches. get the HEI tester and try it out. they're like 15$ and you should have one anyways for future use.

test. spark. fuel. compression

slvrstns2000

thanks

ill have to try hei thing out. need to pick up one for sure... if you guys cant notice, ive been out of the honda game for a few years and i wasnt really ever messing with stock cars so these problems are a little new since i can just look at a laptop w my aem.. but anyways.. i just pulled all my plugs to take a look at them and looking down in cyl. 2 their is def unburned fuel sitting on the piston and the plug was wet. the others looked alright.. this again is where im going to sound like a jackass and ill be the first to admit it.. with the hei tester thing, what exactly is that going to tell me.. and if it is spark related the guy i bought the car from said in the past year or so he replaced "something in the distributer" he had no idea what tho.. really need this car on the road. cant afford to drive my f350 and tired of driving my gmas 88 corolla wagon.

JuicedUpRice

rings.or(less likely based on info given) valve stem seals.probably burnt up valves too.

el crapitan

the hei tester places a level of resistance equivalent to that found inside the cylinder.
if it were spark related, it would be narrowed down to cap, wires, plug. that is all it could be with respect to ignition.
try checking for injetor pulse. it's free to do. grab one of your marker bulbs (194), peel the tangs back and insert it into the injector connector. crank and watch for pulse. injector drivers don't normally fail closed, but it is possible.
lastly, check for compression. dry, then wet

slvrstns2000

Alright. Well bought an hei tester. Im getting proper spark according to that thing. Car has lost most all of the hesitation that it once had. Still smoking. Tryingto get my hands on a compression tester now. But all in all. Felt the exhaust today. No oilly feel to it or anything like that. Just seems rich. When the car fully warms up(which takes forever) even in this heat. The smoking almost stops completely. Even pulls to 6k very little smoke. So thats my update so far.

Thanks

el crapitan

disconnect the injector for that cyl. if the smoking stops, it's probably compression

honda-dummy1

Test the compression. If less than 100 psi, game over. It is never going to properly fire. If the plug is wet then the injector is firing. Could have gas washed the rings, but I doubt that is the real problem. If the compression is low, do a leak down. Listen for the air to come out the intake, exhaust, and the oil cap. That will tell you where the problem is. Also how is the blow by? If you open the oil cap running, does it pump out like an air compressor?

grjr

This car is new to you? Might want to check that there is a thermostat in place. You should be able to get a compression tester from Autozone through their 'loan a tool' program. Do the compression check. Most everyone else who's posted in your thread so far is just guessing since you haven't done this yet.