rev-matching
thank goodness for this thread. i've been wondering how to downshift because since i've learned clutch, i've just been coasting on neutral.
so how much practice do you need to at least get the hang of this? just an average estimate? sorry, i'm a noob girl at clutch
so how much practice do you need to at least get the hang of this? just an average estimate? sorry, i'm a noob girl at clutch
i'm getting my new 6puc clutch n flywheel put in next week and I hope I can get comfortable with the clutche's clamp load quick.
As for the heel n toe, stock pedals really suck to be workin with. imo.
As for the heel n toe, stock pedals really suck to be workin with. imo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hype Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard that if you have a too of a light flywheel then you can lose torque when driving regular b/c you lose ur revs to fast??????</TD></TR></TABLE>
no.
no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only time you need to double clutch downshift is if you
d) drive a car with a transmisison that is on its way out (grinding when going into gear), and you just need to prolong its usable life a bit longer until you can afford to replace or rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that's me. poopy tranny 4 me, y0. but i don't have trouble with it b/c i double-clutch every downshift. except i can't get it into first, even double-clutching. bad for autoX, not so bad now with nice LS cams + nice LS low end.
The only time you need to double clutch downshift is if you
d) drive a car with a transmisison that is on its way out (grinding when going into gear), and you just need to prolong its usable life a bit longer until you can afford to replace or rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that's me. poopy tranny 4 me, y0. but i don't have trouble with it b/c i double-clutch every downshift. except i can't get it into first, even double-clutching. bad for autoX, not so bad now with nice LS cams + nice LS low end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As I have said several times already, it is not necessary to double-clutch downshift on modern synchronized transmissions, unless your synchros are already shot (from prior abuse, not normal driving and downshifting).
My transmission has 191,000+ miles on it, the past 101,000 put on by me, and I always rev-match when I downshift. It is second nature to me. However, I pretty much never double-clutch downshift. I've done it a few times, just to try it, but I really had to think and make it intentional. And yet my transmission works just fine. It doesn't grind at all, and shifts are just as smooth as could be.
Seriously, nobody with a transmission in good condition should concern themselves with double-clutch downshifting. I don't give 2 turds that it was said in F&F, they didn't even get it right.
Double-clutch downshifting will not make you have m4d tYt3 skrillz y0.
The only time you need to double clutch downshift is if you
a) drive a really old car that doesn't have a synchronized transmission
b) drive a car with a racing transmission with straight-cut gears (dog gears)
c) drive a semi-truck (although I think some of them might even be coming with synchronized transmissions), or
d) drive a car with a transmisison that is on its way out (grinding when going into gear), and you just need to prolong its usable life a bit longer until you can afford to replace or rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never said you NEED to do it. It is just a preventive way to save the bearing and sychro so they don't wear out too fast. Just because your tranny last 191k doesn't mean every single one of them will. Especially if you ever open up the tranny and look at how weak the sychro is.
As I have said several times already, it is not necessary to double-clutch downshift on modern synchronized transmissions, unless your synchros are already shot (from prior abuse, not normal driving and downshifting).
My transmission has 191,000+ miles on it, the past 101,000 put on by me, and I always rev-match when I downshift. It is second nature to me. However, I pretty much never double-clutch downshift. I've done it a few times, just to try it, but I really had to think and make it intentional. And yet my transmission works just fine. It doesn't grind at all, and shifts are just as smooth as could be.
Seriously, nobody with a transmission in good condition should concern themselves with double-clutch downshifting. I don't give 2 turds that it was said in F&F, they didn't even get it right.
Double-clutch downshifting will not make you have m4d tYt3 skrillz y0.The only time you need to double clutch downshift is if you
a) drive a really old car that doesn't have a synchronized transmission
b) drive a car with a racing transmission with straight-cut gears (dog gears)
c) drive a semi-truck (although I think some of them might even be coming with synchronized transmissions), or
d) drive a car with a transmisison that is on its way out (grinding when going into gear), and you just need to prolong its usable life a bit longer until you can afford to replace or rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never said you NEED to do it. It is just a preventive way to save the bearing and sychro so they don't wear out too fast. Just because your tranny last 191k doesn't mean every single one of them will. Especially if you ever open up the tranny and look at how weak the sychro is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir boostalot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the heel n toe, stock pedals really suck to be workin with. imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea its better to have one of those wings at the bottom of the gas pedal so you wont hafta break your ankle to heel-toe.
As for the heel n toe, stock pedals really suck to be workin with. imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea its better to have one of those wings at the bottom of the gas pedal so you wont hafta break your ankle to heel-toe.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,151
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ol’SkoolDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea its better to have one of those wings at the bottom of the gas pedal so you wont hafta break your ankle to heel-toe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess I need something like that, because I can't heel-toe downshift to save my life w/ my big@$$ size 13 shoes. I sure can't rotate my foot/ankle like those Japanese race drivers can.
But one problem is that if I set my seat back farther (which helps when trying to rotate the ankle to heel-toe), my arms are extended too far for the steering wheel. The lengths of my legs and arms don't really allow me to be in the optimum driving position. I can push the seat back, and then lean the seat forward more, but it's still not the best position. Makes me wish I had an aftermarket steering wheel w/ hub extender.
I guess I need something like that, because I can't heel-toe downshift to save my life w/ my big@$$ size 13 shoes. I sure can't rotate my foot/ankle like those Japanese race drivers can.
But one problem is that if I set my seat back farther (which helps when trying to rotate the ankle to heel-toe), my arms are extended too far for the steering wheel. The lengths of my legs and arms don't really allow me to be in the optimum driving position. I can push the seat back, and then lean the seat forward more, but it's still not the best position. Makes me wish I had an aftermarket steering wheel w/ hub extender.
hey, i wear 13's, and you don't even need "heel and toe". it's more like the left and right sides of my right shoe. my heal stays by the floor, though not always touching. just takes getting used to i guess, but it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than trying to teach your foot to turn 90 degree in a direction it's only meant to turn 20. oh yeah, and i'm 6'2", and i'm comfortable in my car even for long drives, and the position is perfect for shifting, hard corners, autoX, etc. maybe i should relay you my seat settings. i'm territorial. anybody who dares touch my seating position risks death, b/c it's terribly hard for me to find again.
when i slam my brakes hard, sometimes, maybe once a month or so, i notice the revs climb to about 2000 or 2500 and hang there until i let off or until i purposly try to get off the gas. but that just goes to show you how easy it is to use the two sides of your right shoe to do the "heel-toe" bit.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,151
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, i wear 13's, and you don't even need "heel and toe". it's more like the left and right sides of my right shoe. my heal stays by the floor, though not always touching. just takes getting used to i guess, but it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than trying to teach your foot to turn 90 degree in a direction it's only meant to turn 20. oh yeah, and i'm 6'2", and i'm comfortable in my car even for long drives, and the position is perfect for shifting, hard corners, autoX, etc. maybe i should relay you my seat settings. i'm territorial. anybody who dares touch my seating position risks death, b/c it's terribly hard for me to find again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My seat is set at 2 notches forward from all the way back, and the 4th notch back from straight up. It's good for everyday driving, but not as good for autox. I think the last time I raced I put the seat all the way back, and straight up.
My seat is set at 2 notches forward from all the way back, and the 4th notch back from straight up. It's good for everyday driving, but not as good for autox. I think the last time I raced I put the seat all the way back, and straight up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
haha, that's me. poopy tranny 4 me, y0. but i don't have trouble with it b/c i double-clutch every downshift. except i can't get it into first, even double-clutching. bad for autoX, not so bad now with nice LS cams + nice LS low end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you can't get into first gear .. then maybe you're not double-clutching right? or you're not matching to the right rpm. its hard to get into first gear, i'll admit, and often, i have to rev a little higher and then clutch in and try to get it in first .. sometimes it slides right in .. other times, it'll hesistate a bit, then pop in. the only time i ever really downshift to first is for AutoX .. or when i'm teaching someone what double-clutching really is
i also double-clutch when downshifting 2 or more gears [ i do it out of habit ].
haha, that's me. poopy tranny 4 me, y0. but i don't have trouble with it b/c i double-clutch every downshift. except i can't get it into first, even double-clutching. bad for autoX, not so bad now with nice LS cams + nice LS low end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>if you can't get into first gear .. then maybe you're not double-clutching right? or you're not matching to the right rpm. its hard to get into first gear, i'll admit, and often, i have to rev a little higher and then clutch in and try to get it in first .. sometimes it slides right in .. other times, it'll hesistate a bit, then pop in. the only time i ever really downshift to first is for AutoX .. or when i'm teaching someone what double-clutching really is

i also double-clutch when downshifting 2 or more gears [ i do it out of habit ].
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i'm territorial. anybody who dares touch my seating position risks death, b/c it's terribly hard for me to find again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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