i have a 94 integra. and i just to ask you guys a question about piping mods (intake, headers, exhaust).

i mean i was shopping for headers and i notced so many different brands and how great the cost varies.

theres the cheap ebay ones you can get for $40, the good DC ones for around $250, and ur super expensive $500+ headers.

my question is, what seperates these headers? a pipe is a pipe right? theres no mechnical components inside these headers, so whats the difference? thanks.

 

that is a true question

 

it could be length of the header and the size of the collector.

 

You pay for quality and the brand name. Cheap headers will break and not put out any good hp gains. "You get what you pay for"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmda7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You pay for quality and the brand name. Cheap headers will break and not put out any good hp gains. "You get what you pay for" </TD></TR></TABLE>

i realize that. but that just cancels out the cheap ebay headers.

but wat seperates those $500+ headers to the good $250 DC headers?

is it like the difference between Shaq sneakers versus Jordan sneakers? you pay for the brand name? lol.

and again, wats the "hp gain" difference between those headers, like i said... a pipe is a pipe right?

im not saying anyones wrong, just letting you know whats been on my mind.

 

and on a side note

my friend bought those $40 ebay headers maybe 2 years ago for his B18a, still going good. hehe

 

Cheap ones will break on you and I think weight is an issue too.

 

well if that is the case, id rather have the extra 2-3lb and save $300+.

im not doubting the hp gain differences, i kno different headers have different "proven hp gains." (not actually test by me, just read them off headers websites and other HT forums)

wat im saying is wat makes these differences (if theres even any significant ones hehe)

i mean in the end theyre all just bent pipes...

...just rele rele expensive bent pipes...

 

Go with a DC header you'll feel a significant difference and they last long, ebays cheap headers are heavier and will break

 

the difference is the thickness and types of metals used.

performance wise a lot of knock offs are just as good but heat and resonance can destroy just about anything.

when buying parts dont go for

"you get what you pay for"

that was orifinally coined by people running their little shops on sites like honda tech and ti...

thats utter bull ****.

whats the truth is you get out of it what you put into it.

so if you learn and can figure out what makes the bad parts fail and the good parts succeed then you will know where you can cheap out and where you have to pay to play.

there are lots of ebay parts that are good. and many that are terrible. its all about knowledge.

humanity doesnt mean **** in this country. people will rip each other off and say that buyer beware is the law of the land.

i think thats bs and it needs to change. we need to work together or we will go down together.

just know that lots of ebay parts fail because of engineering woes. they have the right designs but not the right materials. but like i said above. it doesnt fly across the board. some name brand parts are over engineered so the knock off brands can be just as good.

 

$100 megan 4-1 header made 7whp more than $245 4-2-1 DC header.

then again the megan only lasted a good 3 weeks before it cracked.

 

More expensive headers tend to have better quality materials and welding. There isn't too much different between a 500 dollar header and a 1000 dollar header, but the more expensive one could be customized for your particular engine package, because only a single person puts them togetehr (smsp, hytech). for example, the 500 dollar comptech header has excellent fitment, weld quality, stepped exhaust design, and is one of the best headers out there for NA applications. The cheaper 40 dollar headers may not fit quite right and the welds may crack.

 

You're closer on topic if this was about Intakes.

When it comes to a header, there's a little more involved.

 

ooo.

so in the intake's case, its not really the pipe thats the true HP gainers, its the filter? (correct me if im wrong)

so wat, just buy some intake piping from ebay, throw the filter away and get urself some K&Ns or AEM dryflowz??

 

WOW. im pretty shocked that no one has told you its "header" not "headers."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20acura &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW. im pretty shocked that no one has told you its "header" not "headers."</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah you are right, great. What are your thoughts on the topic, or are you just here to correct spelling?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're closer on topic if this was about Intakes.

When it comes to a header, there's a little more involved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like...?????????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like...?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

The length of the primaries and secondaries, the diameter of the primaries, secondaries, and collector, the inclusion of steps, the quality and design of the merges and collector, the pairing of the cylinders, the bends, et cetera....

This is in addition to characteristics like the quality of materials and fabrication, as well as the design, packaging and fitment.

All of these aspects can combine to differentiate a superior header from a decent header or a truly poor one.

 

are you really going to make your decision based on packaging....? Is this really what its comming to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like...?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's a good example.. http://www.hytechexhaust.com/


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The length of the primaries and secondaries, the diameter of the primaries, secondaries, and collector, the inclusion of steps, the quality and design of the merges and collector, the pairing of the cylinders, the bends, et cetera....

This is in addition to characteristics like the quality of materials and fabrication, as well as the design, packaging and fitment.

All of these aspects can combine to differentiate a superior header from a decent header or a truly poor one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a Lot more into a header then an intake,
Could you do that much as stated above with a smaller Single tube for an intake?

 

ok bascially it depends on how big the headers are and how big in diameter the collector is. brand name headers are good for a reason. you get quality and you get what you pay for. cheap ebay headers will sooner or later crack on you depends on the metal used. thats why id go with a brand name becuz your getting something good that will last and perform, a pipe is a pipe but depends what kinda a pipe dc sports are popualr ive always had um tons of people i knew had dc sport headers but there are good or better headers out there depends on your budget- dont buy ebay header!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you really going to make your decision based on packaging....? Is this really what its comming to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

By packaging, I was referring to the way in which the tubes are "packaged" beneath the oil pan, which can dramatically affect ground clearance. So yes, that would certainly be part of my decision-making process.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pennywise. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$100 megan 4-1 header made 7whp more than $245 4-2-1 DC header.

then again the megan only lasted a good 3 weeks before it cracked. </TD></TR></TABLE>

for the difference in price you can alsmost buy a welder to fix it yourself...

 

If you want horsepower spend the money its hard to do but there will be more bang for your buck