so my integra has been overheating it been geting between half a max h it starts doing it when i drive across town or on the freeway my fans both work pefect my radiatior fluid is good the temp will go between half and h and usal drops down to half/normal any ideas on what it is?

 

possibly air bubble in your cooling system

 

Sounds like maybe a sticking thermostat, replace the thermostat and bleed the system till all air is out of it. 94

 

not thermostat and I also blead the system what els could it be?

 

bad headgasket

 

thermostat and HG are the two most common causes of this

if it's a gsr/itr the headgaskets don't blow, they only leak if something is warped or bolts stretch

 

my car is not smokeing at all and I have perfect power

 

and no water in the oil

 

how old is your thermostat?

 

If you are sure it's not the thermostat, or the HG, and no air in the system, that only leaves the water pump or a restriction.

As asked, how old is the thermostat, and how do you know it's not the thermostat?

FYI, even a brand new thermostat can be DOA. 94

 

A good way to check for a blocked up radiator, try to feel for cold spots (with the fans off)

If you have access to one of those laser temp sensor thingies, you can find the cold spots really quick. My old Z had a blocked up radiator. Took me quite a while to figure it out.

 

How old is your water pump and timing belt? Sounds like it could possibly be related to a dead water pump not circulating properly at higher rpms than 2,700

 

Just a suggestion.

 

so I did some work on it today rebled the raditor and drove a took longer the usual to overheat it only got up to a tad over half after a long drive came back home to discover my fans were coming on and off non stop so I manualy had my fans on at all times and now my car doesnt overheat at all unless I come to a stop after a long drive and only goes to half and drops back down

 

never mind still overheats just takes a long time to now

 

Jumping fans to run constant is a bandaid lol. The fans were turning on and off constantly due to the flucatuating temps.

It would hit the temp to turn on, cool down to the "off" temp, then quickly see that the temp was rising again, turning them on.

Overheating only when driving on highwayIMO would be an air bubble in system, Tstat sticking closed slightly, air flow blockage (do you have a huge FMIC in front of the radiator?), or water pump. I deal with cooling systems all day everyday for work.

 

not my tstat and Im going to replace all my radiator fluid this weekend the only thing in front of my radiator is my ac thing.hopefully noten big because it overheats on the highway more

 

the fans helping are a good indication that it's the radiator that's the problem. since it's summer and you're doing a flush, just add water, no anti freeze. it lets you test the system and water is a better coolant than anti freeze anyway

sounds like you'll be getting a new radiator. scaling, blockage or being full of crap can kill their ability to relieve heat

when you replace the radiator make sure you take an air hose or garden hose to the AC condenser. they get plugged full of sand and debris which limits air flow to the radiator

koyo oem replacement radiator is like $100 so at least it isn't costing you much

 

dont use just water. itll ruin crap as there is no anti corrosion additives in water. i believe optimal mix for cooling is about 30% antifreeze and 70% water


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if u are flushing it out u should clean the heater core too

 

the engine will corrode in a day?

i'm not sure if you read the thread but the idea was to test, not permanently leave water in the system

 

How do you know it's not the thermostat? Don't tell me you just replaced it. The only way I'd accept that as an answer is if you just replaced it with a honda OEM one. Did you put the one you think to be good in a pot of water and test it. I've had brand new ones stick on me...

 

This is good advice if the rad is bad. Be sure to have the heat set to hot to properly flush out the heater core. Alot of the time they get the most gunky because most people dont circulate the antifreeze through them when it gets warm out. **** just brews in the heater core and gets nasty.

 

Just because the fans cut on doesn't mean they work "perfectly". Have you (VERY CAREFULLY) put your hand in front of it with it on to make sure it's moving a good amount of air? Even the slightest play in the bearings will allow it to wobble a little and can DRASTICALLY hinder air flow from it.

Just a thought...

 

i actually have two oem fans in outstanding condition along with various radiator hoses that have been on the shelf for years that i'd be happy to sell for $20 + shipping should anyone need them, or if you live around portland or, we can meet up.

anyway, cooling systems are easy to diagnose. the actual testing is a pressure test to make sure you don't have a leak somewhere. typically you start losing coolant if you do, so, if that's not happening you move on to the usual suspects

1. the thermostat. always use an oem honda thermostat! they aren't expensive and function correctly.

2. flush the system. this should be done when you pull the old thermostat for testing. what you do is pull the old stat, bolt the neck back on, put a garden hose in the radiator, fill, run the motor a few minutes, drain and repeat. when only clear water drains you have gotten all you can. now you have to get distilled water back in the system so you fill with distilled, run it, drain it then pull the stat housing to install the thermostat. next you get that garden hose and spray the **** out of the radiator and AC condenser to get anything trapped in the fins out. personally i'm a fan of removing the radiator since it's so easy to do and flushing it that way. you also have better access to the condenser. once this is done, fill again with distilled water and drive for a bit and see if the cooling system works. if the fans were suspect you can test them off a battery charger while on the bench during your flush to see if they grind or move air like they should. this flush cycle also lets you make sure the water pump is circulating like it should

3. if you still have heat problems and it's the radiator the car should run coolest about 50mph in 5th gear since you have forced airflow. when you slow down in traffic temps will rise and if the fans don't keep it in check you either have faulty fans or a faulty radiator. if you hard wire the fans and verify they are spinning at a good clip the radiator is all that's left. water scaling from not using distilled water is a major killer of radiators, when the tubes scale they do not work anywhere near as effective and rather than dissipate heat, they trap it

once you have identified the problem and replaced the parts get a gallon of coolant and gallon of distilled water, mix 50/50 and add.

the biggest reason i do not use coolant for testing is #1 it's $13 a gallon and #2 you have to be careful draining it, preserving it and making sure crap doesn't get in it. it also won't let you see as much crap during the flush cycle.

water you can drain in a bucket, on the ground, not a big deal