I guess a way to slim this down would be to ask how difficult it is to install an LSD. I haved installed my clutch myself, so I can pull the tranny no problem. I am worried about working inside the tranny??? How much would it cost to have someone install it if I brought them the tranny??

 

if you can do a clutch, you can do a LSD.

 

Are their any "how to's" on the web that any of you know about?

 

Also, I am going to do my clutch at the same time. When I am at the track it sometimes slips in second and once in third. It ruined my run, the car just stayed at redline until I let off the throttle and the tires were not spinning. I now have an Exedy 3 puck thin ceramatallic with a Stage 1 pressure plate. For the next clutch I am thinking maybe a Exedy 3 puck THICK cerametallic with the Stage 2 pressure plate. The clutch I have now has lasted a little over a year and they say the thicker cerametallic lasts longer along with the stronger pressure plate for more clamping force. Some friends are telling me to go with a 6 puck??? I defenitly want a sprung hub. Want do you all think I need?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I am going to do my clutch at the same time. When I am at the track it sometimes slips in second and once in third. It ruined my run, the car just stayed at redline until I let off the throttle and the tires were not spinning. I now have an Exedy 3 puck thin ceramatallic with a Stage 1 pressure plate. For the next clutch I am thinking maybe a Exedy 3 puck THICK cerametallic with the Stage 2 pressure plate. The clutch I have now has lasted a little over a year and they say the thicker cerametallic lasts longer along with the stronger pressure plate for more clamping force. Some friends are telling me to go with a 6 puck??? I defenitly want a sprung hub. Want do you all think I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, what you describe does not sound like clutch slippage. It sounds like you shifted hard and just spun out going into gear. Pretty much if your tires are spinning, your clutch isn't slipping.

 

What I was saying is that the tires were NOT spinning, it was the clutch. It was the only pass that I made right after another pass without waiting in between... the clutch was hot so it gave. A sign of things to come

 

oh ok, yeah i guess i read it wrong.

stop your car, rev it up to 6 or 7K and then drop the clutch and slam the gas with the shifter in second gear. An aftermarket upgraded clutch and pressure plate like what you have should hold. maybe try it at lower rpms if it doesn't hold at 6 or 7. if it doesn't hold at like 4K, it's fucked for certain. I guess not holding at 6 or 7K might be questionable.

I guess you really just want that ************ holding (and gripping) no matter what, so put some better **** in there. Your pressure plate probably is fine, but you could do with a better disc.

I see by your sig you got some serious torque going through it, so you need some serious ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatBlackTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would save up some more and do some block or head work.
What about getting some spray for it, most of the nitrous is $500 usually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, your pushing it with 10 psi on a stock block.

My .02

 

I did a compression check over the weekend and they are all 249 to 255. Isn't that a good indication that the motor is still pretty healthy? When I pulled the spark plugs they were pretty black after not that many miles, the guy that tuned my Hondata tuned it really rich.

 

I realize the engine it at its limit, that is why the 3 inch exhaust is the only thing I am going to do to acheive more horsepower before I build the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I pulled the spark plugs they were pretty black after not that many miles, the guy that tuned my Hondata tuned it really rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

MOTHERFUCK HONDATA!!

clear enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drussell4801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

MOTHERFUCK HONDATA!!

clear enough? </TD></TR></TABLE>

then what do u suggest for engine managment?

 

uber

 

Running rich doesn't cause any harm right? I know it is better than running lean.

 

Save the money build the block, IMO it's only a matter of time before the block blows to pieces. High compression plus boot risky over time. If not 3 inch piping will yield a few ponies. Just my opionion. I use to have an 88 300zx limited edition turbo and put a boost control on, the car ran strong with no problems for a little bit then I blew the block to pieces and purchased my GSR.

 

When I build the motor I think I might start with a B20 short block and build it. Didn't some of the B20's come as a solid deck? I so then I would save money not having to sleeve it. I would have it rehoned.

 

i would get that exhaust to 3" first, reason for saying this is that your backpressure is restricted at 2.5"

don't get NOS!!

Hondata baby

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Running rich doesn't cause any harm right? I know it is better than running lean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im no expert but its always been my understanding that you run rich to be safe until you get the ignition right. Then you lean the fuel out(up to a certain extent), while watching your a/f ratio on your wideband.

someone else will come along no doubt and give an indepth explanation

anyone?

 

The tuner also said that an intercooler sprayer could actually be harmful to the engine if used on a really hot day because the intake air tempature sensor will not match the other temp sensors in the engine?????

 

What about doing type r cams on a turbo? I know you don't want very much duration on a turbo but the type r cams shouldn't be to much and should help spool the turbo. Could I do these on the factory valve springs?

 

bump