ls vtec and b20 vtec?
#1
ls vtec and b20 vtec?
ok i probly mist the answer to the ls vtec, n defenitly not the first to ask this "?"
my ? is whats the different in a ls vtec n a gsr there both 1.8l....is it jux the low n high compression differences?
lsv are said to be stronger then gsr, but would it be in hp or torque?
if so, if doing a b20 vtec, which block between the b20z highcp or the b20b lowcp would be the better choice?
my ? is whats the different in a ls vtec n a gsr there both 1.8l....is it jux the low n high compression differences?
lsv are said to be stronger then gsr, but would it be in hp or torque?
if so, if doing a b20 vtec, which block between the b20z highcp or the b20b lowcp would be the better choice?
#2
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Re: ls vtec and b20 vtec?
I can't hardly understand a damn thing you said, so I am going to try to answer this as best I can.
The GSR has a better Rod x Stroke ratio, and it has a main bearing cap girdle, and rod bolts are 9mm as opposed to 8mm in the LS. So it can rev higher safely.
LSV is in no way "stronger", anyone will tell you it is unreliable unless you actually build it (rod bolt's or H-beam rods, balance rotating assembly), and build it right. But the LSVTEC will have more torque than the GSR because it has a longer stroke, but that means you lose out on top end.
If you are doing a B20VTEC, I would go for a regular *** B20, because I recommend upgrading the pistons anyway. But if you plan on keeping stock internals go for the Z for higher comp. but throw in ARP rod bolts. The B20VTEC will have more torque than both because it has more displacement (displacement = torque).
So basically you have to decide if you want to rev higher, or have more torque, but both equal more hp since hp is rpm x tq. An engine with a longer stroke gets more and more out of balance the faster it rotates, that is why you can't rev as high as an engine with a shorter stroke, this is why a B16 bottom end is ideal, it has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio. But I would definately bore out a B16, 1.6L is too small for me lol.
I hope I helped and hopefully you actually learned something. Edit: I hope you even know what the hell I am talking about.
The GSR has a better Rod x Stroke ratio, and it has a main bearing cap girdle, and rod bolts are 9mm as opposed to 8mm in the LS. So it can rev higher safely.
LSV is in no way "stronger", anyone will tell you it is unreliable unless you actually build it (rod bolt's or H-beam rods, balance rotating assembly), and build it right. But the LSVTEC will have more torque than the GSR because it has a longer stroke, but that means you lose out on top end.
If you are doing a B20VTEC, I would go for a regular *** B20, because I recommend upgrading the pistons anyway. But if you plan on keeping stock internals go for the Z for higher comp. but throw in ARP rod bolts. The B20VTEC will have more torque than both because it has more displacement (displacement = torque).
So basically you have to decide if you want to rev higher, or have more torque, but both equal more hp since hp is rpm x tq. An engine with a longer stroke gets more and more out of balance the faster it rotates, that is why you can't rev as high as an engine with a shorter stroke, this is why a B16 bottom end is ideal, it has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio. But I would definately bore out a B16, 1.6L is too small for me lol.
I hope I helped and hopefully you actually learned something. Edit: I hope you even know what the hell I am talking about.
Last edited by DirtyDA9; 01-09-2012 at 10:11 AM.
#5
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Re: ls vtec and b20 vtec?
Lol I have a feeling he doesn't. I felt like it was one of those middle school projects, where you had to explain to someone, in full detail, a certain subject, as if that person had never heard of it before... Same scenario.
He also believe that more hp or torque means the engine is stronger than one with less.... shakin my head.
He also believe that more hp or torque means the engine is stronger than one with less.... shakin my head.
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Re: ls vtec and b20 vtec?
also work it out it's not that hard
cylinder volume dived clearance volume (head volume)
449.3 + 49.7 divide 49.7 = 10.0:1 b18c
399.5 + 44 divide 44 = 10.0:1 b16a
449.3 + 44 divide 44 =11.2:1 b18c/b16a head
cylinder volume dived clearance volume (head volume)
449.3 + 49.7 divide 49.7 = 10.0:1 b18c
399.5 + 44 divide 44 = 10.0:1 b16a
449.3 + 44 divide 44 =11.2:1 b18c/b16a head
#10
Re: ls vtec and b20 vtec?
I can't hardly understand a damn thing you said, so I am going to try to answer this as best I can.
The GSR has a better Rod x Stroke ratio, and it has a main bearing cap girdle, and rod bolts are 9mm as opposed to 8mm in the LS. So it can rev higher safely.
LSV is in no way "stronger", anyone will tell you it is unreliable unless you actually build it (rod bolt's or H-beam rods, balance rotating assembly), and build it right. But the LSVTEC will have more torque than the GSR because it has a longer stroke, but that means you lose out on top end.
If you are doing a B20VTEC, I would go for a regular *** B20, because I recommend upgrading the pistons anyway. But if you plan on keeping stock internals go for the Z for higher comp. but throw in ARP rod bolts. The B20VTEC will have more torque than both because it has more displacement (displacement = torque).
So basically you have to decide if you want to rev higher, or have more torque, but both equal more hp since hp is rpm x tq. An engine with a longer stroke gets more and more out of balance the faster it rotates, that is why you can't rev as high as an engine with a shorter stroke, this is why a B16 bottom end is ideal, it has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio. But I would definately bore out a B16, 1.6L is too small for me lol.
I hope I helped and hopefully you actually learned something. Edit: I hope you even know what the hell I am talking about.
The GSR has a better Rod x Stroke ratio, and it has a main bearing cap girdle, and rod bolts are 9mm as opposed to 8mm in the LS. So it can rev higher safely.
LSV is in no way "stronger", anyone will tell you it is unreliable unless you actually build it (rod bolt's or H-beam rods, balance rotating assembly), and build it right. But the LSVTEC will have more torque than the GSR because it has a longer stroke, but that means you lose out on top end.
If you are doing a B20VTEC, I would go for a regular *** B20, because I recommend upgrading the pistons anyway. But if you plan on keeping stock internals go for the Z for higher comp. but throw in ARP rod bolts. The B20VTEC will have more torque than both because it has more displacement (displacement = torque).
So basically you have to decide if you want to rev higher, or have more torque, but both equal more hp since hp is rpm x tq. An engine with a longer stroke gets more and more out of balance the faster it rotates, that is why you can't rev as high as an engine with a shorter stroke, this is why a B16 bottom end is ideal, it has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio. But I would definately bore out a B16, 1.6L is too small for me lol.
I hope I helped and hopefully you actually learned something. Edit: I hope you even know what the hell I am talking about.
-ls vtech oil line kit
-84MM ls/vtech cosmetic head gasket .030"
-84.5 MM B series wiseco pistons 11.3 -12.0 compression
-eagle H beam rods b18a/b b20
-vtech dohc arp head studs
-machine shop bore/hone/deck, VAT clean
-integra ls acl rod bearings std
-b series acl main bearings race series
-b series thrust washer
-blueprint/assemble short block
-ls/vtech dowel pins
-super tech valves
-precision turbo injectors 440cc
-99+ civic si ahem cold air intake
-dc sports type r Oem headers
-hondata s300
My question is are these upgrades worth $5000 for the car and is it reliable now with these upgrades? Any guess on the HP it should be pulling?
#13
Re: ls vtec and b20 vtec?
I'm buying a EM1 and these are the upgrades done to it.
-ls vtech oil line kit
-84MM ls/vtech cosmetic head gasket .030"
-84.5 MM B series wiseco pistons 11.3 -12.0 compression
-eagle H beam rods b18a/b b20
-vtech dohc arp head studs
-machine shop bore/hone/deck, VAT clean
-integra ls acl rod bearings std
-b series acl main bearings race series
-b series thrust washer
-blueprint/assemble short block
-ls/vtech dowel pins
-super tech valves
-precision turbo injectors 440cc
-99+ civic si ahem cold air intake
-dc sports type r Oem headers
-hondata s300
My question is are these upgrades worth $5000 for the car and is it reliable now with these upgrades? Any guess on the HP it should be pulling?
-ls vtech oil line kit
-84MM ls/vtech cosmetic head gasket .030"
-84.5 MM B series wiseco pistons 11.3 -12.0 compression
-eagle H beam rods b18a/b b20
-vtech dohc arp head studs
-machine shop bore/hone/deck, VAT clean
-integra ls acl rod bearings std
-b series acl main bearings race series
-b series thrust washer
-blueprint/assemble short block
-ls/vtech dowel pins
-super tech valves
-precision turbo injectors 440cc
-99+ civic si ahem cold air intake
-dc sports type r Oem headers
-hondata s300
My question is are these upgrades worth $5000 for the car and is it reliable now with these upgrades? Any guess on the HP it should be pulling?
He may have spent that much money on it but that doesnt mean thats what its worth now. As far as power your guess is as good as mine
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