did a search and came up with nothing. long story short i got 3 broken wheel studs on my front passenger side. looking for a home DIY guide. thanks

 

when you find one let me know i need the same

 

bump, im curious if i can do the front ones too. Backs are easy

 

honda tuning this month with 2 tsx in cover has a wheel stud replace ment on nsx same as most hondas...

 

You will need to separate the hub from the knuckle and a press to put them back together. It can be done yourself but not without that equipment. When i had to replace mine i took the knuckle into a pep-boy's and had the machine shop do the separating/pressing. Cost $50 plus the studs which were like $2.... Probably not the answer your looking for but i hope it helps.

 

to save you money and to DIY person, i simply grind down the knuckles just enough (not too much) where there is room for the studs to come out. You then basically hammer the studs out but make sure your rotors are off first. The reason for the grind is so that when you put new studs (extended or stock), you wouldn't grind down your threads when putting it back in.. Thats if your trying to save money, and it works jus fine for me with extended studs!!

 

getting the bearing out of the hubs suck...

 

yeh i was asking to see if there was a DIY without equipment to get the hubs apart but i guess not, i dont like paying shops to do work

 

There's not a whole lot you can do, you need a press to get the hub out of the bearing, and then you'll have to cut the race off of the hub (the bearing always separates). You can pull the knuckles off of the car and take them to a shop and I doubt they'll charge you a ton to press them out and replace the studs.

I'm not too supportive of grinding down the side of the knuckle, but I suppose it wouldn't be a huge deal if you're careful not to take off too much material.

 

OK I am gonna catch some **** here, but I have done this without issue time and time again on the front of DC/EG's. Take the caliper and caliper bracket off which can be done using a 17mm socket on a ratchet or 17mm wrench. There are two short bolts on the backside of the spindle. After you do this...pound the studs out...they are junk, so just use a hammer. Yes they will hit the hub spindle slightly, but its no biggie. To get the new ones in, just grind one side of the lug flat, so you can slide it through the hole. I am talking about the round part at the opposite end of the stud, not the part where the nut goes on. Once you have that through, use a slightly larger nut than the lugnut, except make sure you can slide that nut all the way down the stud. Then using a lug nut, tighten it up as far as you can. If you have a impact this will be easy. This will pull the stud through the hub as needed. Just go until the stud is flush on the backside of the hub. I know this seems impossible, but I promise it is not. What would make it hard however is if you do not have an impact gun or a grinder. If you do, this process makes things very quick. Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK I am gonna catch some **** here, but I have done this without issue time and time again on the front of DC/EG's. Take the caliper and caliper bracket off which can be done using a 17mm socket on a ratchet or 17mm wrench. There are two short bolts on the backside of the spindle. After you do this...pound the studs out...they are junk, so just use a hammer. Yes they will hit the hub spindle slightly, but its no biggie. To get the new ones in, just grind one side of the lug flat, so you can slide it through the hole. I am talking about the round part at the opposite end of the stud, not the part where the nut goes on. Once you have that through, use a slightly larger nut than the lugnut, except make sure you can slide that nut all the way down the stud. Then using a lug nut, tighten it up as far as you can. If you have a impact this will be easy. This will pull the stud through the hub as needed. Just go until the stud is flush on the backside of the hub. I know this seems impossible, but I promise it is not. What would make it hard however is if you do not have an impact gun or a grinder. If you do, this process makes things very quick. Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is how my co-worker did when he was working at tire-place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by __oversea &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is how my co-worker did when he was working at tire-place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it does work, just grind the back of the stud to a D shape and they go in, use an open ended lug to pull it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes it does work, just grind the back of the stud to a D shape and they go in, use an open ended lug to pull it </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh and he mentioned using some washers on the back too. and yes, he said it works fine and he has done it like 10000000 times. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK I am gonna catch some **** here, but I have done this without issue time and time again on the front of DC/EG's..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

someone had told me to try this same method... I could not get the studs out by pounding them. Not sure how you guys manage to do that, it was a good 1/8"-1/4" of the stud that was being blocked by the knuckle. i hope you have better luck than i did!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tincam84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

someone had told me to try this same method... I could not get the studs out by pounding them. Not sure how you guys manage to do that, it was a good 1/8"-1/4" of the stud that was being blocked by the knuckle. i hope you have better luck than i did! </TD></TR></TABLE>
you again!? haha... j/k I'm sure glad I have what I need to press out those damn bearings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnamezerice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you again!? haha... j/k I'm sure glad I have what I need to press out those damn bearings</TD></TR></TABLE>

just becoming more active

 

haha... it's all good... i haven't posted this much in a while either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tincam84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

someone had told me to try this same method... I could not get the studs out by pounding them. Not sure how you guys manage to do that, it was a good 1/8"-1/4" of the stud that was being blocked by the knuckle. i hope you have better luck than i did! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You just bang it through the last 1/8 inch or so...its junk anyway, so it's no big deal.

 

Found these on the interwebz


1. purchase new wheel stud

2. locate jack and stands. loosen lug nuts. jack up vehicle and remove wheel.

3. remove caliper and disc. older tegs w/ drum brakes you must remove the drum.

4. Look for a cut out opening behind the hub Line the stud up with the opening so you have space to both remove and replace the stud

5. Hit the stud with a mallet to drive it back through the hub's hole. Replace the stud with your new one. Insert the stud as far as you can into the hole.

6. Tighten down the stud by placing two wheel bolts on the front and tightening them. This draws the stud through the hole as you tighten it. Seat it. You check this in the back. When the head of the stud is flush with the back of the hub, you have seated the stud.

7. Put the wheel assembly back on in the order that you removed it to replace the stud on your Acura Integra. Tighten the wheel nuts down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuzukaBlueAP2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. Look for a cut out opening behind the hub Line the stud up with the opening so you have space to both remove and replace the stud
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It'd be nice if a Civic/Integra/any double wishbone Honda had an access hole in the rear of the front knuckles. This wouldn't be a thread or an issue at all.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by __oversea &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is how my co-worker did when he was working at tire-place. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, thanks, 'cause I'm never going to visit that place. Grinding down the edge of the stud head compromises the integrity of the stud. He said he's done it a hundred times and he used washers, so the knurl isn't fully seated into the hub, which could lead to a failed stud again. But this time, the damn stud will spin and you won't be able to remove the lug nut. It's a HUGE pain in the *** to get rid of a stud with the wheel still attached to the hub. Just do it properly the first time, it'll save you a bunch of headache.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It'd be nice if a Civic/Integra/any double wishbone Honda had an access hole in the rear of the front knuckles. This wouldn't be a thread or an issue at all.

Agreed!


Well, thanks, 'cause I'm never going to visit that place. Grinding down the edge of the stud head compromises the integrity of the stud. He said he's done it a hundred times and he used washers, so the knurl isn't fully seated into the hub, which could lead to a failed stud again. But this time, the damn stud will spin and you won't be able to remove the lug nut. It's a HUGE pain in the *** to get rid of a stud with the wheel still attached to the hub. Just do it properly the first time, it'll save you a bunch of headache.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you use a washer it def. could do such a thing, however, just grinding down one side will not make your stud spin...the splines are still intact, and thats what keeps the stud from spinning.