dc2monkey

So is this considered fully compressed?
Couldnt take the swing arm of so I just jacked it up with a jack

So basically all the free play of the shock is just in the top hat when the red thing hits the tower
Wich is the camber kit right?

Got to take it of and measure the top hat for bumpstops

Still got to figure out what to do about tje metal in the fenders...

dc2monkey

90_EX_Civic

you're going to have to hammer that flat, or your tires are going to get cut up. all honda's have this. the integra's are just a little bit more protruded.

just trim the plastic, and use a good hammer, and flatten the tap.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

The exposed metal is caused from the tires rubbing. My OEM wheels with 195/55-15 tires rubbed bad when the wheels were turned when going up uneven driveways. So I cut out the portion of the fender liner covering that metal seam, and hammered the seam. I also have the same areas inside the fender that come from the tire rubbing when turning at full steering wheel lock in parking lots and driveways.

rash

The bouncy ride could also be because the suspension needs time/miles to settle. That and you may need to preload the springs a bit, especially if you're dropping the car as low as it is currently.

rhymeshark916

I had GC/Koni on my old DC4. It was stiff but bouncy. I thought coil sleeves are known to bounce. (I had 5-lug conversion with rear itr sway bar)

TunerN00b

Suspensions don't "settle". If you failed to clock the bushings, then they will stretch and tear until they re-orient themselves. While this can look like settling, it was an install error if that is the case.

Preload has nothing to do with bouncy, and preload can't be set with a fixed length shock body, such as using a threaded sleeve on a Koni Sport.

Sigh. Again, bounce is from having insufficient shock damping (aka under damped). Coil sleeves are no different than the stock coil spring. Either you have adequate shock or you don't, and if you don't it will be bouncy.

With that camber kit in there, you're really going to slam the UCA into the shock towers on large suspension movements.

But yes, with the UCA resting against the shock tower (like it looks like there), that is full suspension compression.

You want the bumpstop to be fully compressed right before this happens. Since the shock body is slightly up inside the upper shock mount, measuring the remaining shock travel is next to impossible. Mark the shock body at the end of the upper mount, measure the distance from the mark to the end of the shock, measure the distance available inside of the upper mount, and subtract the total space from the length of the shock body pushed up inside to find the total available distance. This distance is different for each UCA used.

Or just buy the GC bumpstops and expect periodic UCA slams, which is what most of us do.

dc2monkey

Alright, so I did my front
Drove around and it was good.
I just put the stiffness all the way up and rides fine.

Now onto the rear...
The rear is a lil difficult bc of the way the sway bar is bolted.
Do sway bars usually bolt up to the lca?
Check out the pics.

TunerN00b

To ^

If you want to move a single side of a suspension system without the other side influencing it, you need to disconnect the swaybar.

And if that is a DC2 being pictured, you have rather non-stock swaybar setup there. They normally attach the endlink to the LCA (on those aftermarket LCAs, it would be in the middle hole that isn't being used, but that isn't really the "correct place" either due to the design), not to a hanger attached to the shock bolt.

dc2monkey

So the way its done is not correct?
I ended up getting the rear coilovers in...just finished a bit ago

But I mean if thats not done right I want to get a dif sway bar and do it right...

90_EX_Civic

im wondering what his subframe looks like.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Looks to be a Suspension Techniques 19mm rear sway bar, which comes with mounting components almost identical to the old BSQ sway bar mount kit (longer bolts, spacers, bushing mount plates, etc). If that's the case and this is an Integra, then the subframe is likely just fine.

Also, mounting the end links to the shock bolt like that actually gives the effect of a larger sway bar, since the mounting points are farther outboard from the subframe. So the 19mm ST bar could possibly perform similar to an OEM ITR 22mm bar mounted to the "normal" mounting points. I have no proof of that, it's just a conjectural example.

I personally am not a huge fan of that design, but some people believe it to be superior to the OEM design.

dc2monkey

O well, guess the sway bar will stay like that for now..

Well I finished the suspesion...and it rides great for how low its sitting...

Thanks honda tech

dc2monkey

Did you just hammer the vissible metal or all of it?

90_EX_Civic

i did all of it just to safe.

rash

Well I have a lot to learn when it comes to suspension I suppose.

rhymeshark916

How can I be under damped when the yellows were maxed out?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

What you perceived as "bouncy" was probably just the car riding very rough and harsh over bumps in the road, following every hump and dip, etc. I doubt you were underdamped unless you were running higher than 500 lb/in springs, which is about the limit of OTS Koni Sport shocks. You could have actually been "overdamped".

TunerN00b

Or the car is using the bumpstops during normal suspension movement, artificially raising the spring rate to the point where the Koni shock can no longer adequately control it.

DC2, 400/400 rates, GC sleeves, OTS Koni Sports, and it was bouncy as all hell when I first lowered the car because I dumped it to the point of sitting on the bumpstops at ride height. Raised up to a reasonable lowering, the bounce is completely gone and the car corners better.

And Patrick is correct, overdamped is very harsh.

rhymeshark916

Yes, you are on point. I was overdamped to the point where I can feel each bump and bruise. My back was getting stiff.