Just received my Brembo drilled and slotted rotors and planning on swooping them out tomorrow. Any have step-by-step directions on how to do this? I never did it before and i'm also going to go ahead and install new brake pads.

 

Do a SEARCH, it has been gone over many times lately. Or check out bseries.net, I think they have some step by step info on how to so this.

 

Why don’t you do a SEARCH and then post the links because i DID do a search and got nothing.

 

did you try archived topics?

 

Yep

 

ok, i'll give you credit....i just did one for the integra forum in both archive and recent and tried a bunch of different keywords and didnt get much pertaining.

 

Yes unfortunately

 

The search function here does suck. I have done searches on stuff that I posted the same day and have come up with nothing before.

Anyway, it's not too hard, but can be a pain. It's pretty much:
1-remove wheel
2-unbolt caliper (2 bolts) Can't remember if I took out the pads first though. It'll be easy to decide when you're doing though. Make sure you have something to set the caliper down on that is tall enough so that you don't tug on the ABS lines. A lot of people ruin an ABS sensor that way. Careful.
3-(This part can be a biatch) remove the 2 screws that are holding the rotor to the hub. They are probably seized, so go buy a impact driver for ~$15. If you try to turn seized screws with a screwdriver, you will strip it. The impact driver turns when you hit it with a hammer so that it's ahrder to strip. Use the flathead piece, not the philips 'cause I did that and it stripped it anyway. So I drmeled another slot into the screw and then used the flathead piece and that loosened it.
4-Remove rotor. You'll probably have to hitit with a hammer from the back 'cause it'll probably be seized to the hub. Not hard though.
5-Put on new rotor
6-Some people leave off the screws and leave the rotor floating. I coated one with anti-seize and then put it in. Some people replace both. Your call.
7- Replace caliper. You'll probably have to push the pistons in first since the new rotor is probably thicker.
8- Done. Do the other 3. You might want to bleed the brakes too. Since sometimes pressing the piston back in can get air in the line. I didn't do it till 3 months later. Your call.

Good luck. Won't be hard, except for the seized screws part.

 

ok thanks for the info

 

hmm thats really wierd that you found nothing. .because I KNOW i've posted links and info on brakes over the past week into other peoples brake threads... anyway heres a link that should help you out and get you through the job.. good luck

http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/brakes.php

just a few corrections/addition to the above.. raise and support the car on jack stands.. remove wheel... spray brakes w/ brake cleaner... well you can't remove the pads w/o removing at least 1 bolt of the caliper and pivoting it up... so yeah you remove the caliper bolts and then get a bungee cord or something to support/hang the caliper on the spring or upper control arm so that it doesnt hang on the brake lines.... since your doing the rotors.. remove both the caliper bolts.. then support the caliper... now remove the pads and remove the caliper mount/pad cage and lift it out...

now your rotor is exposed and unobstructed.... use an impact screwdriver (you can buy this at sears) and hold the screwdrier in place while you hit the impact driver.. the impact will turn the screw.. once the screws are out.. you lift the rotor off.. of that doesn't work give it a smack w/ a rubber mallot and it should come off.. make sure u dont damage the lug bolts when u smach the rotor or lift it out... install is reverse ... your going to have to compress the piston so that it fits over the new/thicker pads and rotor.. just get a C-clamp.. and back one of the old pads into the piston w/ the C clamp... now install everything back... and make sure you torque everything down to spec... you might want to apply some anti squeal to the back of your pads/shims and get some high temp brake grease for your caliper pin bolts...

the back is similar except to compress the piston you'll need to turn it instead of just compressing w/ a C -clamp.. there is a cube looking tool w/ protrusions/teeth that attaches to your 3/8" ratchet that you can buy to compress it.. i've also seen people use hex keys, needle nose pliers, or screwdrivers to turn it... good luck..


[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 3:07 PM 6/21/2002]

 

Do '94 and newer Integra's have pressed on hubs?