Ignition/starting issues
I did my searching and researching and checking, and here's what I'm left with.
I've been noticing a metal-on-metal clicking noise coming from my distributor for the past while, so last week I decided I'd investigate a little bit. I started of by taking the distributor cap off, and before getting further than that I noticed there was corrosion all over all four of the leads...thinking that corrosion was bad and that it should go, I proceeded to scrape it all off with my exacto blade. At that point, I put it all back together cause I just felt like driving my car...crank, crank, crank, crank...no start.
Here's what I checked/verified/did:
- checked spark plug wire order on distributor = good
- checked all fuses
- slightly bent the leads inward thinking that scraping the corrosion off had made the distance between them and the rotor contact too great for it to arc = didn't help
- tried my older distributor cap and older rotor = no good
- tried my older distributor cap and newer/current rotor = no good
- unplugged the spark plug wires, took one spark plug out and tested it in all four wires with my friend cranking the motor over = no spark on any of them (yes I did ground the plug properly each time)
- main relay clicks and fuel pump primes...I also smell un-burned fuel while trying to start
- took the distributor off and tested the conductivity as per the FSM and this is what I got:
Primary winding resistance:
spec = 0.6-0.8 ohms
my result = .8 ohms
Secondary winding resistance:
spec = 12.8-19.2 K-ohms
my result = 9 K-ohms
Does this absolutely necessarily mean that my ignition coil coincidentally died at the same time as when I decided to clean the corrosion off my distributor cap? I'm really not a very clumsy person when working on my car, but is it possible I messed something up in the process? I don't think I did, but I just figured I'd ask.
Whenever I get the time I'm going to put the distributor back on the car and follow the FSM's instructions on performing an ICM test...first I need to find someone with a multimeter though...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...I really wanna get my car on the road before this weekend's autocross.
Modified by KaBlookie at 2:11 PM 4/24/2007
I've been noticing a metal-on-metal clicking noise coming from my distributor for the past while, so last week I decided I'd investigate a little bit. I started of by taking the distributor cap off, and before getting further than that I noticed there was corrosion all over all four of the leads...thinking that corrosion was bad and that it should go, I proceeded to scrape it all off with my exacto blade. At that point, I put it all back together cause I just felt like driving my car...crank, crank, crank, crank...no start.
Here's what I checked/verified/did:
- checked spark plug wire order on distributor = good
- checked all fuses
- slightly bent the leads inward thinking that scraping the corrosion off had made the distance between them and the rotor contact too great for it to arc = didn't help
- tried my older distributor cap and older rotor = no good
- tried my older distributor cap and newer/current rotor = no good
- unplugged the spark plug wires, took one spark plug out and tested it in all four wires with my friend cranking the motor over = no spark on any of them (yes I did ground the plug properly each time)
- main relay clicks and fuel pump primes...I also smell un-burned fuel while trying to start
- took the distributor off and tested the conductivity as per the FSM and this is what I got:
Primary winding resistance:
spec = 0.6-0.8 ohms
my result = .8 ohms
Secondary winding resistance:
spec = 12.8-19.2 K-ohms
my result = 9 K-ohms
Does this absolutely necessarily mean that my ignition coil coincidentally died at the same time as when I decided to clean the corrosion off my distributor cap? I'm really not a very clumsy person when working on my car, but is it possible I messed something up in the process? I don't think I did, but I just figured I'd ask.
Whenever I get the time I'm going to put the distributor back on the car and follow the FSM's instructions on performing an ICM test...first I need to find someone with a multimeter though...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...I really wanna get my car on the road before this weekend's autocross.
Modified by KaBlookie at 2:11 PM 4/24/2007
well the starter works cause it cranks over fine, and I smell unburned gas after trying to start it and hear the main relay clicking/fuel pump priming, so I know I'm getting fuel.
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