Idle problems Please help
Hey guys I have a 98 GSR, all stock other than header and test pipe, and i am having some problems with it. My idle is messed up. Itll idle around 1500 on start up, then when it starts to warm up it'll drop to 750 like normal, but then after about 30 seconds it'll jump up to around 1500 for around 5 seconds, then down to 500 and right back up to 750. Im sorry if this is confusing but i couldn't find an easier way to describe it. Also my car will not run with the iacv valve unplugged. ive bled the coolant system so no problems there, and changed out my iacv with a known good one and it still has the same problem. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
i'd lean towards a vacuum leak. especially since it dies with the iacv disconnected.
check for vacuum leaks with a can of quick start.
other possibilities are engine coolant temp sensor. you can test resistance of it first cold, then hot. see if it falls within spec.
another possibility is the fitv. test/clean it.
also, check ignition timing
check for vacuum leaks with a can of quick start.
other possibilities are engine coolant temp sensor. you can test resistance of it first cold, then hot. see if it falls within spec.
another possibility is the fitv. test/clean it.
also, check ignition timing
I believe OBDII teggys do not come with FITV, automatic integra's have a FITV though. How long did you let it bleed out for? Mine took long as 30 mins AFTER running operating temperature to fully finish bleeding.
Check your tps as stated above, you might even have a bad thermostat.
Most likely sounds like a vacuum leak. Do a vacuum leak test, some shops do it for free.
EDIT: Is your car pulling any codes? You did not say if there were any.
Check your tps as stated above, you might even have a bad thermostat.
Most likely sounds like a vacuum leak. Do a vacuum leak test, some shops do it for free.
EDIT: Is your car pulling any codes? You did not say if there were any.
Last edited by 01oemTeggy; Jan 15, 2012 at 11:21 PM.
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I believe OBDII teggys do not come with FITV, automatic integra's have a FITV tho. How long did you let it bleed out for? Mine took long as 30 mins AFTER running operating temperature to fully finish bleeding.
Check your tps as stated above, you might even have a bad thermostat.
Most likely sounds like a vacuum leak. Do a vacuum leak test, some shops do it for free.
EDIT: Is your car pulling any codes? You did not say if there were any.
Check your tps as stated above, you might even have a bad thermostat.
Most likely sounds like a vacuum leak. Do a vacuum leak test, some shops do it for free.
EDIT: Is your car pulling any codes? You did not say if there were any.
Ok, so i replaced the tps sensor to no avail, the only code it's pulling is for the cat. I tried bleeding mine for about 15 minutes but then it just started boiling and spewing everywhere, i live in ohio which is very very cold right now, and ive never overheated. I don't know what this boiling over means? Any ideas?
When your fans turn on your car is about normal operating temp. Bubbles still appear aroung this time. Make sure you have the heating system at full blast on HOT air so it will help circulate better. Try doing it in the garage with the door opened just a little so you don't get carbon monoxide poisoning.
Get a overleak bottle (something like that) so that you won't over boil or your coolant won't boil out of the radiator. Patience is the key here.
then whats wrong with mine, it will idle surge 700-1400 every now and then, but it will only surge 3-4 times then idle high for 1 second then drop to normal..should i check my ficv?
another trick though is to pull the intake boot off and cover the throttle body completely. if it doesn't die, it's pulling vacuum through a leak
it could also be a collapsed line, in which hunting for leaks won't help
but if there were a vac leak, wouldn't pulling a line off cause even a greater drop in vacuum, thus causing more of an erratic idle? i've never tried that trick, so i'm not sure. but in theory, i would think it wouldn't be effective.
another trick though is to pull the intake boot off and cover the throttle body completely. if it doesn't die, it's pulling vacuum through a leak
it could also be a collapsed line, in which hunting for leaks won't help
another trick though is to pull the intake boot off and cover the throttle body completely. if it doesn't die, it's pulling vacuum through a leak
it could also be a collapsed line, in which hunting for leaks won't help
I have checked vacuum leaks and found none. And with the whole bleeding my system, my fan never seems to come one, but i never overheat. Also i do live in ohio which is about 10 degrees right now. So i dont know how to get all the way up to operating temp just sitting there. Any ideas?
I have checked vacuum leaks and found none. And with the whole bleeding my system, my fan never seems to come one, but i never overheat. Also i do live in ohio which is about 10 degrees right now. So i dont know how to get all the way up to operating temp just sitting there. Any ideas?
Ohio? Then sounds like its gonna take longer to heat up. Drive it around till you see needle go up a little then park in the garage and it should heat up much faster.
Just make sure you slowly open the radiator cap. Then do exactly as i posted earlier.
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