IDLE PROBLEMS
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,388
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From: Wilm, DE
Re: IDLE PROBLEMS (94SHOWLS)
could be many things. i suggest you search for bogging/surging idle threads. i just had this problem and fixed it with the help of honda-tech. try checking for vaccum leaks by spraying carb clean around the intake mani, tb, and coolant hoses. if your car doesn' bog when doing that then i'd check the IACV (idle air control valve) on the back of the intake manifold or the FITV (fast idle thermo valve) under the throttle body.. if you have one. clean the plug on the IACV & unbolt it and clean out the screen. Same with the FITV.. take it off and it might need to be tightened.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 236
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Re: IDLE PROBLEMS (94SHOWLS)
(sorry for a long answere and endless paragraph action)
most likly the Fast Idle Thermo Valve FITV. Allthough numerous things can cause irratic idle, i.e. vaccum leaks,IACV etc. my car idled like the way you described and only got worse over time.
Search: Fast idle, Fast idle thermo.. on H-T
Search: weird idle, erratic idle,strange idle on.. team-integra.net
To test for the FITV, begin by removing your intake pipeing. Then examine your throttle-body. There should be two holes in close proximity of each other.
One is at 6 `o clock the other at 8 `o clock. (from passenger side of vehicle) Ok, now the hole at 8 `0 clock/farest to the left is the hole running from the FITV. Begin by starting the vehicle and waiting for the idle to go up n down. Then plug your finger over the hole, it will create a sealed vaccum and the car will idle normal. (now if i screwed up and it's not the left side..then common sense up and plug the other hole) One of the holes is the right one and only one works.
Remedy: if the test worked turn off your engine. Examine the throttle-body, just under it rests a metallic valve with a coolant line running into it. (it's square-based shaped and is immediately under the throttle-body, bolted on) You will be required to remove this peice to fix the problem. I dont remember the bolt size but a small torque wrench w/ a short extension will be needed. The valve is being held by 3 bolts. Disconnect the hosing first. (be careful w/ coolant temps, dont let the car run forever beforedoing this and/or let the engine cool) with the hoses removed unscrew the bolts. When the seal breaks coolant will escape so dont freak out.
When you have the part in hand you'll first notice that not all the grooves have o-rings in them. that is normal. Now on the side of the valve is a copper cap w/ 2 screws. Unscrew them and remove the cap. AT THIS POINT you will find the actual valve, mine just "fell out". WHAT happened is the valve shook itself loose over time from engine vibration, And you will need to screw it back in. The end of the valve has 2 line-grooves in it. Screw the valve back on by hand as far as you can go. Then screw it in some more with a makeshift tool (i used a flathead screwdriver) when it all screwed in you will see the valve close itself. When it's fully closed re-assemble everything and your good to go.
most likly the Fast Idle Thermo Valve FITV. Allthough numerous things can cause irratic idle, i.e. vaccum leaks,IACV etc. my car idled like the way you described and only got worse over time.
Search: Fast idle, Fast idle thermo.. on H-T
Search: weird idle, erratic idle,strange idle on.. team-integra.net
To test for the FITV, begin by removing your intake pipeing. Then examine your throttle-body. There should be two holes in close proximity of each other.
One is at 6 `o clock the other at 8 `o clock. (from passenger side of vehicle) Ok, now the hole at 8 `0 clock/farest to the left is the hole running from the FITV. Begin by starting the vehicle and waiting for the idle to go up n down. Then plug your finger over the hole, it will create a sealed vaccum and the car will idle normal. (now if i screwed up and it's not the left side..then common sense up and plug the other hole) One of the holes is the right one and only one works.
Remedy: if the test worked turn off your engine. Examine the throttle-body, just under it rests a metallic valve with a coolant line running into it. (it's square-based shaped and is immediately under the throttle-body, bolted on) You will be required to remove this peice to fix the problem. I dont remember the bolt size but a small torque wrench w/ a short extension will be needed. The valve is being held by 3 bolts. Disconnect the hosing first. (be careful w/ coolant temps, dont let the car run forever beforedoing this and/or let the engine cool) with the hoses removed unscrew the bolts. When the seal breaks coolant will escape so dont freak out.
When you have the part in hand you'll first notice that not all the grooves have o-rings in them. that is normal. Now on the side of the valve is a copper cap w/ 2 screws. Unscrew them and remove the cap. AT THIS POINT you will find the actual valve, mine just "fell out". WHAT happened is the valve shook itself loose over time from engine vibration, And you will need to screw it back in. The end of the valve has 2 line-grooves in it. Screw the valve back on by hand as far as you can go. Then screw it in some more with a makeshift tool (i used a flathead screwdriver) when it all screwed in you will see the valve close itself. When it's fully closed re-assemble everything and your good to go.
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