pdiggitydogg

This is driving me crazy...

GSR Tranny
Bearing #: 91005-P80-E31

Measuring for shims is a huge pain for me right now...I cant seem to get this right...

Here is a shot of the vss gear, with no shim on the clutch housing side (not supposed to shim there, right??)

Its sitting ON the housing, and not spinning freely, because of that. Shouldnt it sit at least a little higher???
Can I put a shim under it to raise it?
I have a feeling the bearing is pressed on too far...

Clearance between gear and bearing is .015"

Also, with no shim on the clutch housing side...this is the gap I have on the opposite side:

HUUUGE gap! Almost .09"!
BUT when I use one of the old shims from the tapered bearings, that is about .06, I cant spin the diff. at ALL.

WHAT THE HELL?!

Cliff notes:
Can I use a thin shim, on the clutch housing side, to raise vss gear, so diff spins freely?
Why is my gap on the gear side so massive, YET, when I use a .06" shim , its too tight?


Modified by pdiggitydogg at 4:03 PM 7/23/2006

1turbodc2

iTrader: (1)

honda sells the shims, u need to go with a feeler gague and see waht size shim u need, they sell a **** load of them(sizes that is), and then i belibe its suppose to be the clearence of 5 thousands (not a 100 percent sure)

pdiggitydogg

yes, i know about the shims...im measuring to buy them
...im having a hard time.....

InfamousDC2FI

you sure you have the right bearings? What tranny is this on?

pdiggitydogg

yeah, theyre the right bearings
its a gsr trans, itr lsd

pdiggitydogg

i should clarify
bearing #s: 91005-P80-E31

pdiggitydogg

help...need to get this done SOON

Dogginator

I put a thin shim on mine first to measure the clearance and adjusted to the proper shim. That is strange thet the differential is hitting the clutch housing. Are both bearings mounted with the shields facing outwards?

Check out this thread for a good rebuild write-up:
Tranny Overhaul & JDM ITR Final Drive/LSD Install (56k...not so much)

pdiggitydogg

i was going to use that thread....but all the pics are dead (im a visual person)

the bearing on the bottom of the unit is facing with the shield facing in, instead of outward...but i wasnt aware there was any difference
It doesnt look like flipping the bearing would change anything though.
How close does the bearing need to be?

tech8

See if this link might help you:

http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/lsd/

Good luck.

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bearing on the bottom of the unit is facing with the shield facing in, instead of outward...but i wasnt aware there was any difference
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a slight difference, as the unshielded side protrudes beyond the outer bearing race. That is your problem.

96 GSR-T

Maybe I am a little to fucked up to be making a post, but isnt the OEM ITR Diff supposed to be used with the B16/ITR Tranny and not the different GSR Tranny? Do you have the ring gear for the ITR?

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 GSR-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe I am a little to fucked up to be making a post, but isnt the OEM ITR Diff supposed to be used with the B16/ITR Tranny and not the different GSR Tranny? Do you have the ring gear for the ITR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The casings are the same for the DC GSR and ITR. All ITR LSDs are the same. You just need to swap the ring gear if it came from a 4.785 FD.

pdiggitydogg

crap...
I hope youre right
Now I just need to figure out how the hell Im going to flip the damn thing over

96 GSR-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The casings are the same for the DC GSR and ITR. All ITR LSDs are the same. You just need to swap the ring gear if it came from a 4.785 FD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just looked at Quaife's website and the part numbers for the GSR/ITR are the same.... you should be ok there, sorry to create a stir.

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crap...
I hope youre right
Now I just need to figure out how the hell Im going to flip the damn thing over</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need a bearing splitter. You will most likely destroy the bearing in the process. Even if it does seem OK, you will pull the bearing by putting force through the ***** onto the races. This could damage the races and lead to problems later. (I assume that you do not want to repeat this installation anytime soon.)

This link has examples of bearing splitters.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/car....html

pdiggitydogg

I actually own one of those, but I cant get it under the bearing, because of how close it is to the speedo gear

Dogginator

I see what you mean from the picture. The slight standoff on the unshielded side would have prevented that. Perhaps you could clamp the outer race (vice) and use a driver to remove the differential.

pdiggitydogg

hmmm.....i'll try that tomorrow perhaps

InfamousDC2FI

heres a thread i made when i thought honda gave me bad bearings (i ordered the wrong ones doh):

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1626891

theres some good pics of how the inner race sticks out a little more then the outer which if installed upside down could be why your having your problem.

pdiggitydogg

GOT IT!
Yep, bearing being on backwards was the problem! (duh!)

thanks a lot!

Dogginator

That's good to hear. How did you pull the bearing?

pdiggitydogg

I used the bearing separator, and just gripped the sides REALLY tightly
I was worried that it would damage the bearing, but it seems to be just fine

pdiggitydogg

Ok, one more question
Probably pretty obvious...but I want to be sure

Looking at the part numbers online, and after each is 1.#
Are these the metric measurements?

AND...if mine is 1.346, I should just get the 1.30