Help! Car won't start
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Help! Car won't start
I have a 97 GS-R. Last night going home from work on a steady cruise on the interstate at 70 in 5th gear all of a sudden I try to accelerate and the car starts studdering like it was only running on 3 cylinders. So I start to exit onto my exit ramp going home I stop to see what's up and my car just dies. I coast to a gas station and pop the hood and just like I thought one of the spark plug wires had popped off. This has happened to me before and all I did was pop it back on and it was good to roll. Nope not this time. The car just turns over and over and over. No Spark!! I put the spark plug wire next to something metal to see if it would arc while turning over the motor and it didn't do anything. So I checked my spark plugs, check the fuel filter to see if I was getting fuel pressure and check the distributor cap. Once I seen the rotor was burnt I went to the store and bought a new one and changed it out. Still does the same. Just turns over and won't start. So I got fuel but no fire. I tried to push start it and it still did not start. I did hear the fuel pump buzz and the dash lights and everything works. The starter will turn the motor over and over but I'm not getting any spark. Like I said... the spark plug terminals that plug into the cap did NOT arc when I did the screw driver trick. I'm definately getting fuel because when I loosened the nut on the filter and turned over the motor gas sprayed everywhere. I changed the rotor but not the cap because no one had it in stock. I did however do a little sand job on the terminals inside the cap to get more metal surface. Still no luck. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks
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Re: Help! Car won't start (ElectronGS-R)
it might be your distributer.... and that thing can be expensive.. i think... it might be like 150 plus, im not sure... if worse comes to worse.. its the ecu.. but im not to sure.....those are some of the things i would check... OH the fuses.. as well... inside and the engine bay
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Well as my luck would have it, it couldn't have been something simple like a fuse. I checked them all under the dash and hood and they are all fine. So I guess now I need to test the coil. I just tried starting it again this morning after it sitting for a day and it still just turns over and over pretty strong like normal but just won't start. I can also still hear the fuel pump buzz.
**Update**: I did a ohm test on the coil and I got 0.8 (0.6 - 0.8 in Helms) on the primary and 11.35 on the secondary (12.8 - 19.2 in Helms). So I think my coil is good. The secondary looks low but it's about 68-73 degrees outside right now so I don't know. I have 12 volts with the ignition ON to the black/yellow wire going to the ICM. I also tested the volts to the coil with the ignition ON after I put back all of the wires on the ICM and I'm getting 12 volts there too. We pulled off one of the spark plug wires and did a test for fire turning the motor over and I still get nothing. What next?
**Update**: I did a ohm test on the coil and I got 0.8 (0.6 - 0.8 in Helms) on the primary and 11.35 on the secondary (12.8 - 19.2 in Helms). So I think my coil is good. The secondary looks low but it's about 68-73 degrees outside right now so I don't know. I have 12 volts with the ignition ON to the black/yellow wire going to the ICM. I also tested the volts to the coil with the ignition ON after I put back all of the wires on the ICM and I'm getting 12 volts there too. We pulled off one of the spark plug wires and did a test for fire turning the motor over and I still get nothing. What next?
#6
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Re: (ElectronGS-R)
its your coil or ignitor my car did the same thing as yours and it turned out to be the coil try changing your dizzy with a buddy and see if that helps
#7
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Well if it is one of those two I need to know which one because I don't want to waste money on a $170 ICM and it's not the problem. I'm gonna try to jump the service connector to see if I can get a code.
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I was just doing some more thinking and I'm thinking it could have been something so simple like the distributor cap. When I pulled the cap off remember.. the rotor was burnt. When I checked out the terminals inside the cap they were a little toasty as well. But not knowing if it was like that before I just replaced the rotor because no one had the cap in stock in town. So what if the terminals inside the cap are fried? That's why I ordered one from the parts store today and I'm gonna change it out tomorrow and see what happens. If it still doesn't start I'll do the service connector trick to see what the code is.
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Well I changed out the distributor cap this morning and of course that did nothing. I also tried jumping the service connector to see if I had a code and the only thing that happends is when I turn the key to ON all of the lights come on for a few seconds like normal... but then the check engine light goes off. I then jumped the connector and the ABS light goes off and the check engine light comes on and stays on along with the other lights. It doesn't flash or anything. So I don't know if that's a code or not.
#12
Re: Help! Car won't start (ElectronGS-R)
Do a spark test. Buy those inexpensive spark tester from an auto store. Read the instructions or ask me and i'll tell you. If you get no sparks it mean you gotta replace your ignitor. If your still skeptical look at your ignitor and see if there any crack around it. If it is then that's your problem. The ignitor.
Since you see stuff burn around the spark area then most likely it's not the ICM.
Since you see stuff burn around the spark area then most likely it's not the ICM.
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*****UPDATE******
I got the car started!!! I went ahead and bought a new coil at AutoZone for $70 and changed it all out in about 5 minutes and she cranked right up like nothing ever happened. Thanks for everyone's input! It really helped alot with my decision making and I learned a lot.
But here's another problem:
After it running for a while I still have a check engine light on. So I once again I jumped the service connector and here's the sequence of flashes I got but I need to know which code it is. I got 4 long flashes and the 5th one was fast. Then a very long pause and the sequence started over again. So is it 41?
I got the car started!!! I went ahead and bought a new coil at AutoZone for $70 and changed it all out in about 5 minutes and she cranked right up like nothing ever happened. Thanks for everyone's input! It really helped alot with my decision making and I learned a lot.
But here's another problem:
After it running for a while I still have a check engine light on. So I once again I jumped the service connector and here's the sequence of flashes I got but I need to know which code it is. I got 4 long flashes and the 5th one was fast. Then a very long pause and the sequence started over again. So is it 41?
#15
Re: (ElectronGS-R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ElectronGS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK I'm playing dumb here.. but I thought the ICM was the ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
HEH... Sorry I fergot. I was more like thinking ICU.
HEH... Sorry I fergot. I was more like thinking ICU.
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I know what the problem is. The harness that plugs in the second o2 sensor on the cat is broke. I'm pretty sure the sensor is fine I just need the male / female harness. The wires came out of the clip. I think there's what.. like 3 or 4 wires in one? White Black Green and another one.
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