Engine Problems! Please help
Today I started up my 1996 integra for the first time in maybe 2 months. It ran fine for awhile with a little idle adjustment. Then I was reading codes with the service connector(it’s the only way I can read codes with the aftermarket ecu, so I tried it for the first time today) and I got a code 9. The check engine light has come and gone when I drove it so I never worried about it. As I got the code the idle started dipping and it eventually stalled. I didn’t think anything of it and started it again. It took a couple extra seconds and the car sounded off like it was missing or something. I tried to steady out the idle and it backfired loud. It usually only backfired in the top end when driving. The backfire was louder than anything I’ve heard before. I revved it up some more to clear it up and it wouldn’t go above 2,000 rpm and it backfired very loud again. I don’t know what the issue is but it has me very worried. I thought maybe a timing issue but idk. The cams are lined up right and the timing belt is tight. Any help please?
you have a misfire in one or more cylinders for any number of reasons, but code 9 is a faulty top dead center sensor issue from what I've read of that code, might be a damaged or faulty sensor. , likely the internals of the distributor.
The TDC sensor is built into the distributor, you can replace it or get a replacement distributor, I did that for my nephew's Del Sol and solved the issue. Other sources of misfires can be sparkplugs, wires, or injectors but I think you will find the issue within the distributor.
Your in limp mode! its why it wont rev past a certain RPM, its preventing you from reving the **** out the engine and blowing it up.
What aftermarket ECU do you have? I never heard of someone using a scan tool to get ecu codes when using a aftermarket ECU! If its a Hondata ECU ect you should be able to pull the codes from hondata from your laptop. But if your using a scan tool that means you have a stock ECU!.. Distributors are hit or miss there most all refurbished. I recommend you buy a Richporter distributor they are much more quality and are made from all new parts not rebuilt like all the rest!
Unplug the battery and ECU from under the dash for 5 min and re connect, this should clear the ecu cell and let you rev past 2k rpm unless the issue is more serious.
Try a simple tune up, plugs, wires and cap and rotor, then grab a timing gun and check the ignition timing! you said the mech. timing was good arrows on the cam gears line up then all that's left is checking ignition timing with the timing gun. If it still has a misfire and wont rev then try another distributor.
What aftermarket ECU do you have? I never heard of someone using a scan tool to get ecu codes when using a aftermarket ECU! If its a Hondata ECU ect you should be able to pull the codes from hondata from your laptop. But if your using a scan tool that means you have a stock ECU!.. Distributors are hit or miss there most all refurbished. I recommend you buy a Richporter distributor they are much more quality and are made from all new parts not rebuilt like all the rest!
Unplug the battery and ECU from under the dash for 5 min and re connect, this should clear the ecu cell and let you rev past 2k rpm unless the issue is more serious.
Try a simple tune up, plugs, wires and cap and rotor, then grab a timing gun and check the ignition timing! you said the mech. timing was good arrows on the cam gears line up then all that's left is checking ignition timing with the timing gun. If it still has a misfire and wont rev then try another distributor.
Your in limp mode! its why it wont rev past a certain RPM, its preventing you from reving the **** out the engine and blowing it up.
What aftermarket ECU do you have? I never heard of someone using a scan tool to get ecu codes when using a aftermarket ECU! If its a Hondata ECU ect you should be able to pull the codes from hondata from your laptop. But if your using a scan tool that means you have a stock ECU!.. Distributors are hit or miss there most all refurbished. I recommend you buy a Richporter distributor they are much more quality and are made from all new parts not rebuilt like all the rest!
Unplug the battery and ECU from under the dash for 5 min and re connect, this should clear the ecu cell and let you rev past 2k rpm unless the issue is more serious.
Try a simple tune up, plugs, wires and cap and rotor, then grab a timing gun and check the ignition timing! you said the mech. timing was good arrows on the cam gears line up then all that's left is checking ignition timing with the timing gun. If it still has a misfire and wont rev then try another distributor.
What aftermarket ECU do you have? I never heard of someone using a scan tool to get ecu codes when using a aftermarket ECU! If its a Hondata ECU ect you should be able to pull the codes from hondata from your laptop. But if your using a scan tool that means you have a stock ECU!.. Distributors are hit or miss there most all refurbished. I recommend you buy a Richporter distributor they are much more quality and are made from all new parts not rebuilt like all the rest!
Unplug the battery and ECU from under the dash for 5 min and re connect, this should clear the ecu cell and let you rev past 2k rpm unless the issue is more serious.
Try a simple tune up, plugs, wires and cap and rotor, then grab a timing gun and check the ignition timing! you said the mech. timing was good arrows on the cam gears line up then all that's left is checking ignition timing with the timing gun. If it still has a misfire and wont rev then try another distributor.
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"usually/backfired/top end" are not things you want to hear in the same sentence. This does not sound like a backfire to me, this sounds like a cylinder that was not firing, filled up with gas and exploded. More like a cannon fire than a backfire pop. At this point, I'd skip the compression test and go straight to a leakdown, the chances of this having sealed combustion chambers is close to zero.
[QUOTE=thewrai6th;51825564]You're not supposed to put more than 1 tsp of oil in for a wet test. It should start right up and burn off right away. Sounds like you might have screwed something else up in the process.
What do you think I could have screwed up? I don’t have the tools for a leak down test. So I’m going to need something else to figure it out.
What do you think I could have screwed up? I don’t have the tools for a leak down test. So I’m going to need something else to figure it out.
You can't get it started so you have to go from the basics. Are you getting a properly timed spark, are you getting fuel, are you getting compression?
Your plugs are fouled, start there. Clean them or buy new ones, super cheap and part of normal maintenance.
Next verify your cam timing lines up with TDC. You might have broken a timing belt or it slipped a tooth.
You can rent one from almost any auto parts store. Where are you from? You might find someone local to help for a 6 pack or so.
You can't get it started so you have to go from the basics. Are you getting a properly timed spark, are you getting fuel, are you getting compression?
Your plugs are fouled, start there. Clean them or buy new ones, super cheap and part of normal maintenance.
Next verify your cam timing lines up with TDC. You might have broken a timing belt or it slipped a tooth.
You can't get it started so you have to go from the basics. Are you getting a properly timed spark, are you getting fuel, are you getting compression?
Your plugs are fouled, start there. Clean them or buy new ones, super cheap and part of normal maintenance.
Next verify your cam timing lines up with TDC. You might have broken a timing belt or it slipped a tooth.
I once used a long screw driver and wrapped a paper towel or shop towel around the screw driver or extension for a ratchet and stuck it down the hole and soaked the oil up until it was dry.
Had something similar happened to me. Come to find out the tdc sensor came in contact with the trigger. A gun shot like back fire came out of the exhaust. Say away from afternarket distributors I had nothing but bad luck with them. At least get yourself an oem base it will come with all the sensors you need.
I finally got around to working on it. I soaked up some oil with a rod and a rag. I put new spark plugs in and she fired right up. There was lots of blue smoke which I expected. Now I just have to figure out why I’m getting gas in my oil. Thanks all for your help
gas shouldn’t have gone into the cylinders. I pressed the gas pedal to keep it from flooding. And there was gas before I tried starting it. There’s at least a quart or 2 of gas in there
@ wunfstgsr
Richporter sold out to Spectra Premium. They will not sell directly to customers, I think advance auto carries their product.
If anyone cares, Spectra does not make the "race" version of distributors like Richporter used to.
Richporter sold out to Spectra Premium. They will not sell directly to customers, I think advance auto carries their product.
If anyone cares, Spectra does not make the "race" version of distributors like Richporter used to.
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