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Engine Check Light ON Code

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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:37 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine Check Light ON Code

CAR : Acura Integra 1998 LS model( Base model)
Experience Level : Novice

Current Symptom: I have to turn the key between 6-8 times before it starts and i recently got the Check Engine Light . I got it diagnosed the code that came is 1359 ( manufacturer controlled ignition system or misfire)

The mechanic said that i have to change the whole distributor cost $700 or so.

I started reading about the problem and for some people changing the distributor cap has helped not sure whether its the right thing or not. but i though when the cap only cost 50 or so cant hurt too much.

I have bought the distributor cap from the dealer then i read i need the rotor as well so i plan to pick it up before i do anything.

I was wondering if someone can help me in deciding is it a good idea or not? and how complicated the steps are to change. What else i need to keep in mind before doing anything in the car( I thought may be disconnecting the terminal from battery might be a good idea)

Thanks in Advance.


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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (harvinder)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harvinder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The mechanic said that i have to change the whole distributor cost $700 or so.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Did he say the distributor was $700?
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (Byaaah!)

Yes that's the price that the mechanic quoted me to get it fixed. and he pointed to distributor the silver block with black housing attached. Again i am novice so that can be a factor as well.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (harvinder)

A distributor is expensive yes, but $700?! Thats crazy.

Try the Market Place, search in your area, and you can find a distributor. I see them go for about $80-120.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:49 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (Byaaah!)

700 for sure sounded crazy that why i wanted to see if changing the distributor cap and rotor will help or not in my situation. I am trying to see how hard it is going to be or should i let professional deal with it?
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (harvinder)

i think your mechanic had about 700 beers when he told you that price lol.
there a bit pricey but sadly they do wear out.

there not hard to change either 3 bolts and two plugs.. you say your a novice so if you follow the book you will not have a problem
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (stocker2shocker91)

You are right there are just 4 screws that holds the distributor cap so that should be easy to open. Cap is connected with 4 spark plug wires. Are they in any order? I might label them when i take them off just to be safe. Only thing i am not sure is about changing the rotor thing.

Is it like a that you just snap on? is there any angle that it needs to be at?

Please bear me if my questions are too common. This is my first adventure so just have too many questions.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (harvinder)

yes labeling is key, if you have the book its easier but if not thats fine to thats where we are here. mark where each wire goes and just hook them back up to the new cap.

if your going to replace the rotor as well its easier just to take the dizzy off which is not a hard task. i would just do the cao for now and see what happens
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:12 PM
  #9  
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (stocker2shocker91)

Thanks stocker. I will keep the thread updated to let you know the results of my adventure.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (harvinder)

this should be the same firing order there is a pic a couple posts down

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2124588
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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Default Re: Engine Check Light ON Code (stocker2shocker91)

Hmmm, I thought the cap was held on by three?

Anyways, if you don't want to do it yourself, I would get another quote besides the $700 man.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 02:19 PM
  #12  
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Default

here ya go http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...54747

lifetime warranty
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 03:17 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: (egsleepercivic)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here ya go http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...54747

lifetime warranty </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear they are actually pretty good.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 03:21 PM
  #14  
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Default Re: (Byaaah!)

ya i heard that too i will be gettin one for when i go obd1
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 03:56 PM
  #15  
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Default Re: (Byaaah!)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Byaaah! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hear they are actually pretty good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no personal expierence with them but I haven't read any bad reviews on here, plus lifetime warranty and they have been around for a while not like its a super new company or anything like that
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #16  
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Default Mission succesfull

The Engine check light is gone( One reason could be that i had to disconnect my battery before doing anything) so that might have reset the light.

But also i succesfully replaced the distributor cap. ( Somone right pointed it only has 3 screws to undo) The old one did had one point that was worn out. So far so good my car starts in one crank.

Thanks all for your pointers and help.
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