Hello all im in need of some help. I have a 1997 civic and i recently dropped an B18 into it the car runs great when its cold but when the engine gets warms up and i hit the accelerator the engine bogs down and almost dies after a couple of seconds the RPMs shoot up like normal.

And after i turn off the car it will not start back up unless i hold the throttle wide open

Things that i have replaced so far
plugs
injectors
fuel pressure regulator
distributor, cap, rotor

i did test the TPS tested out fine

what else should i look for

also i do have a walbro fuel pump on the car would that cause an issue?

I have posted a video of the issue on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52ZP...ature=youtu.be

the check engine light is on due to both O2 sensors heating units

 

fuel filter sounds like its the issue.

 

Sounds more like an ECT sensor problem, engine is running rich when warm.

Symptoms of a bad ECT switch

1- Starts and runs OK when cold.
2- Hard starting when warm and runs like crap.
3- Poor gas milage.

Although the fuel filter may also be a problem, [symptoms do not match exactly] so if you do not know how old it is, replace it, it can't hurt.

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Have you confirmed valve and ign. timing? 94

 

Timming is good and fuel filter is good, and the car runs great when cold or warm but I just keeps havin that issue I will try to test fuel pressure and also how do I test the ECT sensor?

 

Bump

 

http://112.imagebam.com/download/V0t...8/page1232.jpg

http://www.spooledupracing.com/downl...dfbd31fb819d41

 

Timing is off.

 

Can the car run and start fine with no missfires when cold with the timming off???

also when the car is at idel when hot it does idel fine and the car runs great after the initial bogging I just dont see how this can be a timming issue.

would having my timming belt too tight cause an issue?

 

If it runs "great after the initial bogging" I can't see it being a timing issue either.

It will be fuel or spark, the PGM-FI Main Relay, fuel pump and coil are all suseptable to heat failure and can be intermittent...
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94

 

Ok so I replaced my fuel filter again and it seems that the bogging got worse... Any Ideas?

 

Just because, redo the main grounds, batt./batt. to chassis and chassis to engine, also do the VC ground and thermostat housing grounds, DO NOT just eyeball them, disconnect/clean/reconnect.

Also still need to know what fuel pressure is when engine is "bogging".

I would also test the TPS to make sure it has no "dead" spots. 94

 

redid all grounds, also changed my walbro fuel pump to a stock fuel pump and no change...

also i am getting code P0112 and i just dont know what the readings are supposed to be to the plug (volts and resistance) If someone can help me out with this?

 

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...e-P0112-page-1

 

will get a fuel pressure tester tomorrow and i will post the results

 

fuel pressure test was a bust. the kit didnt have the fittings that i needed to test the pressure at the fuel rail but im not sure i may be able to test it before the filter (the filter is 2weeks old) but i will check for sure after work.

 

also i did change my walbro fuel pump back to stock and no change. After the car is warm it still bogs down for a split second when i hit the accelerator and if the engine is turned off its hard to start back up unless I have the engine at WOT (wide open throttle). its like it floods its self when i turn it off.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52ZP...ature=youtu.be

 

I say at this point before you going spending a ton of money keep replacing whatever people are telling you. Take it to a shop and let them have a look.. By the time you are done replacing everything that is ok it will cost more, just saying...

 

thanks for the input but the only thing a shop has that i dont have is time. and everything that i have been replacing is stuff that i already own so its not costing me anything to at least try. I just want more ideas because im out of probable causes

 

so i did more testing with the TPS and i noticed and i tried it with 3 different TPS that when i spin the sensor ( as if it was on the throttle body ) the voltage goes up fine until about 3 to 3.2 volts at that point voltage drops off and then comes back... and basically i have no idea why

I also posted a video on youtube take a look and let me know what you think and sorry for the music lol

 

there's a lot of bogus tp sensors out there,
looks like you need a new one. whenever the topic comes up
i cant wait to bash blox again for failing to stand by their craptastic
products- eff you blox! 8( grab a dorman, mine's doing great so far.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-911-753-Throttle-Position-Sensor-/310873480279?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AIntegra&hash=item486180dc57&vxp=mtr

 

ill repost when it comes in