Electrical gremlins?
Hello,
I'm having a bit of a problem with my integra GSR. The other day the car wouldn't start (no crank, just clicking when you turned the key) and I had it towed to Tuffy (I don't have the time to work on my car much any more). After some diagnostics they said it was the starter... so I thought "Oh, I'll push start it then drive it home"...
... but then it died two blocks after I left. My father and I tried to push-start the car again but were unsuccessful. I ended up replacing the starter on the side of the road with another one I had and the car now cranks but will not start. I checked and double checked the grounds, made sure all the connections were tight, etc, but the car will simply not start. The starter engages and disengages and cranks strong, so that doesn't seem to be the issue. We ended up pushing it two blocks back to the Tuffy I had it towed to originally, which was a fantastic endeavor.
I'd think it was some other part of the ignition but I replaced pretty much everything recently. New distributor, wires, fuel pump relay, fuel pump. I've checked all the grounds I know of... any ideas of what it might be? I'm baffled.
I'm having a bit of a problem with my integra GSR. The other day the car wouldn't start (no crank, just clicking when you turned the key) and I had it towed to Tuffy (I don't have the time to work on my car much any more). After some diagnostics they said it was the starter... so I thought "Oh, I'll push start it then drive it home"...
... but then it died two blocks after I left. My father and I tried to push-start the car again but were unsuccessful. I ended up replacing the starter on the side of the road with another one I had and the car now cranks but will not start. I checked and double checked the grounds, made sure all the connections were tight, etc, but the car will simply not start. The starter engages and disengages and cranks strong, so that doesn't seem to be the issue. We ended up pushing it two blocks back to the Tuffy I had it towed to originally, which was a fantastic endeavor.
I'd think it was some other part of the ignition but I replaced pretty much everything recently. New distributor, wires, fuel pump relay, fuel pump. I've checked all the grounds I know of... any ideas of what it might be? I'm baffled.
Obviously to have spark you need to have a good ignition coil and good ICM (ignitor) I know you said you replaced them, but when you say ''new'' distributor what do you mean? Brand new from the parts store? Brand new from laying around the garage? 
I say this because i know people who have received bad parts and bad distributors from parts stores.
Have you checked every fuse under the engine bay? Checked the fuses under the dash?
You can/need to test the coil & the icm.. Then i would go from there
If you are mechanically inclined enough to do any of this.. or ''if you dont have the time to work on my car anymore'' then you need to just take it to the shop and be prepared to get charged out the ***.. So i would make time unless you just have cash laying around
this might help

I say this because i know people who have received bad parts and bad distributors from parts stores.
Have you checked every fuse under the engine bay? Checked the fuses under the dash?
You can/need to test the coil & the icm.. Then i would go from there
If you are mechanically inclined enough to do any of this.. or ''if you dont have the time to work on my car anymore'' then you need to just take it to the shop and be prepared to get charged out the ***.. So i would make time unless you just have cash laying around
this might help
Originally Posted by Taken from Gen 3 specs thread
Ignition related:
No spark?
Check your ignition coil..
-Make sure ignition switched is turned to off position
-Remove the dizzy cap
- Disconnect the primary electrical connectors to the coil
- Using an ohmeter touch the probes and compare your results to the values listed.
Testing Ignition coil
Primary resistance 0.6 to 0.8 ohms
Secondary resistance 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms
Also test your Ignitor (ignition control module)
- Check for battery voltage to the ignition module
- Check the ignition circuit and related componets if there is no voltage to the ICM check the circuit from the ICM to the battery. First check the ignition switch fuses (under the hood fuse box)
- If you get no voltage from the ICM.. Trace the wires down.. See if there is a break in the wire..
- Still no voltage? Your Ignitor has took a crap on you.. Time to replace the ICM.
No spark?
Check your ignition coil..
-Make sure ignition switched is turned to off position
-Remove the dizzy cap
- Disconnect the primary electrical connectors to the coil
- Using an ohmeter touch the probes and compare your results to the values listed.
Testing Ignition coil
Primary resistance 0.6 to 0.8 ohms
Secondary resistance 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms
Also test your Ignitor (ignition control module)
- Check for battery voltage to the ignition module
- Check the ignition circuit and related componets if there is no voltage to the ICM check the circuit from the ICM to the battery. First check the ignition switch fuses (under the hood fuse box)
- If you get no voltage from the ICM.. Trace the wires down.. See if there is a break in the wire..
- Still no voltage? Your Ignitor has took a crap on you.. Time to replace the ICM.
I checked pretty much every fuse under the dash, yes. As for the distributor, it had been running 100% fine until now... I got one from here brand new:
http://www.distributorking.com/
I suppose that they will probably test the coil and stuff at Tuffy and figure out what's going on.
Thanks,
Sean
http://www.distributorking.com/
I suppose that they will probably test the coil and stuff at Tuffy and figure out what's going on.
Thanks,
Sean
I checked pretty much every fuse under the dash, yes. As for the distributor, it had been running 100% fine until now... I got one from here brand new:
http://www.distributorking.com/
I suppose that they will probably test the coil and stuff at Tuffy and figure out what's going on.
Thanks,
Sean
http://www.distributorking.com/
I suppose that they will probably test the coil and stuff at Tuffy and figure out what's going on.
Thanks,
Sean
I've never purchased one thing from distributor king, but to be honest i have seen a few threads about them and i remember seeing a few threads particularly where people had problems with there dizzys from them.. I've also seen where people have had 0 problems. Seems sort of like a ''hit or miss'' transaction with them.
Interesting. The only thing is that the distributor was working just fine and started right up on Saturday before I got the no-crank issue. Though the starter going bad may well have caused the distributor to go too somehow... I'm not sure.
I suppose that we will find out tomorrow what they find. I wish I didn't work so much or go to school full time so I could actually fix it myself... oh well.
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
- sean
I suppose that we will find out tomorrow what they find. I wish I didn't work so much or go to school full time so I could actually fix it myself... oh well.
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
- sean
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Low and behold the distributor went bad. Interesting because it was working before... oh well. Guess I'll slap on my old one and then RMA the other one.
Drove it home today, so it seems to be working alright. Question though:
The bearing in my distributor is making a fair bit of noise, which is why I had originally replaced it. Do you think that it is safe to drive with the bearing? The car starts up (sometimes it takes a little bit more "oomf" to do it, but it always does) but I'm just wondering the dangers of the bearing going out. I'm RMA'ing the DK distributor, but I don't really like driving my civic since it needs the brakes worked on
The bearing in my distributor is making a fair bit of noise, which is why I had originally replaced it. Do you think that it is safe to drive with the bearing? The car starts up (sometimes it takes a little bit more "oomf" to do it, but it always does) but I'm just wondering the dangers of the bearing going out. I'm RMA'ing the DK distributor, but I don't really like driving my civic since it needs the brakes worked on
There is a bearing in the distributor.. I believe it is sealed though... I remember i had a distributor a few years back go bad on my old '92 si hatch.. It made alot of noise.
I would try to replace as soon as possible.. I'd imagine it wouldn't be good if it decided to lock up.
I would try to replace as soon as possible.. I'd imagine it wouldn't be good if it decided to lock up.
There is a bearing in the distributor.. I believe it is sealed though... I remember i had a distributor a few years back go bad on my old '92 si hatch.. It made alot of noise.
I would try to replace as soon as possible.. I'd imagine it wouldn't be good if it decided to lock up.
I would try to replace as soon as possible.. I'd imagine it wouldn't be good if it decided to lock up.
yeah, the bearing's pressed onto the shaft. not designed to be a replaceable part. they go out, all kinds of rust-lookin powder fills up the dizzy cap (the first sign of a dry bearing- it's gonna go out). i always just give distributor king a call for a new complete unit when this happens... (i've heard a few things on here about possible negative comments about them, but i've had roughly 10 or 12 perfect experiences on cars that get beat on, so... i dunno, works for me?
Oddly enough my distributor doesn't have a bunch of dust in it, so I'm not sure. And DK was quite nice about it and I shipped it back yesterday, so I should have a new one next week.
Thanks all
Thanks all
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