ECU Conversion
Hey
I searched a bit about this but its hard to sift through the number of searches that come up when you search for ecu
. I was wondering what were the steps invovled in doing a obd2.2 to obd1 conversion? I have a 95 GSR ecu as well as a ob2.2 -> obd1 harness. What I am asking is what exactly do you do, ie disconnect battery, etc etc. The actual process i am familiar with (remove plastic cover from passenger side door, remove ecu, plug new ecu into harness, plug harness into wiring etc etc.), i just want to know what your supposed to do before and after.
Thanks!
I searched a bit about this but its hard to sift through the number of searches that come up when you search for ecu
. I was wondering what were the steps invovled in doing a obd2.2 to obd1 conversion? I have a 95 GSR ecu as well as a ob2.2 -> obd1 harness. What I am asking is what exactly do you do, ie disconnect battery, etc etc. The actual process i am familiar with (remove plastic cover from passenger side door, remove ecu, plug new ecu into harness, plug harness into wiring etc etc.), i just want to know what your supposed to do before and after. Thanks!
You can just plug it up like you explained. When you first turn the car on, let it idle for a few minutes, then turn it back off. You should be good to go after that.
I pull the negative battery cable as well as the ECU and backup fuses before I disconnect my ECU, but just the battery cable should be enough. Like the man said, let the car idle for a few after you're done reconnecting the adaptor and new ECU. Make sure you have your radio security code handy if you have the stock radio too.
So i did the conversion everything seems fine except for this one irritating thing. It seems my dash light gets brighter after 4000 rpm and gets lighter when the revs drop. Not sure on exact rpm but its around there. Any idea why this would be happening?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Rotational Speed of the alternator?!? Sorry, am a newb here
How would I do that? Is that ecu related?
I felt a big difference since I have a CAI and my ecu was already correcting for the extra air. I was loosing torque low end with CAI and i regained it with the switch.
How would I do that? Is that ecu related?I felt a big difference since I have a CAI and my ecu was already correcting for the extra air. I was loosing torque low end with CAI and i regained it with the switch.
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can i jump in with questions...what ecu does a 96 ls(se) come with and what ecu swap would give me a lil more power..right now its bone stock just a k&n drop in,but plan on i/h/e performance clutch..nothing being done to the engine other than maintenence...im would like to get maximum power out of the i/h/e like the intial post stated...thanks
just get a OBD1 version of your ecu. Thats what I would think would work best so a 94/95 LS ecu. Since the LS/RS/GS had the same engine maybe the ecu would be the same for those? I dunno. Anywho just waiting for the response to my question.
I'm merely suggesting that the problem with your dash lights is unrelated to your ECU swap since to my mind I don't see how it could be. Have you done anything that may have changed the speed at which the altornator turns? Like underdrive pulley or crank pulley?
Ohh no, it pretty much was a before and after. It didnt do it before and started doing it right after the swap. Everything else done to my car is totally unrelated in my eyes, like Hid kit (changed out the fuse), Intake, and Tie Bars + strut bars.
sounds good to me...how bout a 94/95 se ecu...if theres even a difference in the se ecu as to a regular ls...a guy i know that works in a performance shop here in jerzy told be just putting a gsr ecu would make a hell of a difference...but, my cel will be on constantly until a gsr head was swapped with the ls head and additional things were done...
Will by changing it to OBD1 will I really feel a difference? I drive a 2001 GS-R... that's an OBD II, right?
Thats why i did it. Total cost to me was approx 400$, but its worth it for hondata tuning when you get the I/H/E and starting doing engine work like cams, pistons, and such.
Is the obd1 ecu that you're using chipped? My friend had a similar probably with his lights after he put in a chipped ecu. If not, look into your battery and alternator.
The problem seems to still be persisting and now i have noticed a idling problem. Sometimes after i start it it will idle really really low (500-600) and then it will just die. I have to gas it otherwise it will sometimes just die like that. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks, im thinking of just swapping back to the old ecu
Thanks, im thinking of just swapping back to the old ecu

If the ecu is chipped, that might be the problem. Some programs aren't too good. Did you try swapping it with another obd1 ecu? Also, when you first put in the ecu, did you let the car idle for a few minutes (without touching anything), then turn the car back off.. to set the ecu?
I let it idle for about 10mins wihtout touching anything then I took it for a spin, I dont know if I turned it off or not. Should I just reset the ecu?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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