don't answer if you don't know!
#1
don't answer if you don't know!
this is my setup...
b18b obd1
Act stage 4 clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing
AEM Cold air intake
AEM fuel rail
AEM tru time pulleys
B&M fuel pressure regulater, with gauge
Crower stage 1 cams
Golden eagle adjustable cam gears
GSR DC Sports 4 2 1 one piece header
GSR Cat, and DC Sports Cat back exhaust
GSR obd2 injectors
GSR transmission Phantom Grip LSD with LS 5th gear
Hondata intake gasket
Mr. Gasket distributor cap and rotor button
Nopi brand - lightweight flywheel
Optima Battery
Performance chip tuned by crome
Prothane engine mount bushings
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Unorthadox Crank pulley
i want to add a bigger throttle body....but don't know what size to get...and what brand...could someone help me that actually knows what they're talking about...
b18b obd1
Act stage 4 clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing
AEM Cold air intake
AEM fuel rail
AEM tru time pulleys
B&M fuel pressure regulater, with gauge
Crower stage 1 cams
Golden eagle adjustable cam gears
GSR DC Sports 4 2 1 one piece header
GSR Cat, and DC Sports Cat back exhaust
GSR obd2 injectors
GSR transmission Phantom Grip LSD with LS 5th gear
Hondata intake gasket
Mr. Gasket distributor cap and rotor button
Nopi brand - lightweight flywheel
Optima Battery
Performance chip tuned by crome
Prothane engine mount bushings
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Unorthadox Crank pulley
i want to add a bigger throttle body....but don't know what size to get...and what brand...could someone help me that actually knows what they're talking about...
#3
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Re: don't answer if you don't know! (DARKTEG_)
the inlet size of the skunk2 intake manifold is 65mm
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold
#4
Re: don't answer if you don't know! (DC2 Mang)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inlet size of the skunk2 intake manifold is 65mm
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
...what if i were to just buy an after market... are you saying that i would have to buy a 65mm?
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
...what if i were to just buy an after market... are you saying that i would have to buy a 65mm?
#5
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Re: don't answer if you don't know! (DARKTEG_)
most TB's taper, try to find on arounf 65-67mm at the inlet, intake manifold can be TB matched, but it is on your car then it would be a pain in the *** taking it off and putting it back on to have it enlarged. so i would just buy one that is the exact same size as the manifold
anything bigger than 66-68mm at the inlet and you may start losing power
anything bigger than 66-68mm at the inlet and you may start losing power
#6
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Re: don't answer if you don't know! (DC2 Mang)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2 Mang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the inlet size of the skunk2 intake manifold is 65mm
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Skunk2 IM Opening Is Actually only 64mm, I Am Using A JG 65mm TB Off Of My S2 IM On My Gs-R The 1mm Lip Wont Make Much Of A Difference.
I would send the stock TB out to maxbore and get it set to a 68mm with a taper to 65mm where the tb meets up to the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Skunk2 IM Opening Is Actually only 64mm, I Am Using A JG 65mm TB Off Of My S2 IM On My Gs-R The 1mm Lip Wont Make Much Of A Difference.
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getting the jg 65mm or send your stock one out to maxbore to get bore'd would be the idea thing to do.
if you want something like a 70mm, then you'll have to port match your IM to it. just simply use a dremel and a shop vac to suck up the shavings.
i think ideally, you'd want your intake to be the same size as the TB and for the IM port to be the same size as the TB too.
if you want something like a 70mm, then you'll have to port match your IM to it. just simply use a dremel and a shop vac to suck up the shavings.
i think ideally, you'd want your intake to be the same size as the TB and for the IM port to be the same size as the TB too.
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Re: (DARKTEG_)
I would get some 81mm b16 pistons before anything else. They are only 140$ from rsmachines.com
That skunk2 IM isnt doing you any good. They are designed to make power from 7k-10k RPMs and are completely worthless for an LS.
That skunk2 IM isnt doing you any good. They are designed to make power from 7k-10k RPMs and are completely worthless for an LS.
#12
Re: (shutupnskate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That skunk2 IM isnt doing you any good. They are designed to make power from 7k-10k RPMs and are completely worthless for an LS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would they make them if they are completely worthless?
read this graph and you'll see the difference it makes it peaks at 5700rpm
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=275681
AS I STATED AT THE TOP DON'T ANSWER IF YOU DON'T KNOW!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get some 81mm b16 pistons before anything else. They are only 140$ from rsmachines.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow i can tell you probably don't have any of this stuff done to your own car... ok so 140 for pistons, then labour to rip apart the block hone the block and if you want to do everything right, rings, wrist pins, valve seals, just to name a few, and while its out you might as well get the crank lighten balanced and micropolished, then more labour so it doesn't end up costing 140, you twoit
why would they make them if they are completely worthless?
read this graph and you'll see the difference it makes it peaks at 5700rpm
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=275681
AS I STATED AT THE TOP DON'T ANSWER IF YOU DON'T KNOW!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get some 81mm b16 pistons before anything else. They are only 140$ from rsmachines.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow i can tell you probably don't have any of this stuff done to your own car... ok so 140 for pistons, then labour to rip apart the block hone the block and if you want to do everything right, rings, wrist pins, valve seals, just to name a few, and while its out you might as well get the crank lighten balanced and micropolished, then more labour so it doesn't end up costing 140, you twoit
#13
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Re: (DARKTEG_)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DARKTEG_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why would they make them if they are completely worthless?
read this graph and you'll see the difference it makes it peaks at 5700rpm
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=275681
AS I STATED AT THE TOP DON'T ANSWER IF YOU DON'T KNOW!
wow i can tell you probably don't have any of this stuff done to your own car... ok so 140 for pistons, then labour to rip apart the block hone the block and if you want to do everything right, rings, wrist pins, valve seals, just to name a few, and while its out you might as well get the crank lighten balanced and micropolished, then more labour so it doesn't end up costing 140, you twoit</TD></TR></TABLE>
They make those manifolds for high-revving ITR/GSR applications. Not for LS's. A turbo GSR has nothing to do with a bolt-on LS. Go read up on Skunk2s website it says their b-series manifolds are designed to make power over stock from 7k-10k RPMs. In fact just search around H-T and you will see that anyone who puts a Skunk2 Manifold on an LS is thoroughly flamed.
As for b16 pistons, you're a complete dumbass for wasting money on a fuel rail, fpr, and many of your other worthless parts ( stage 4 clutch on a bolt-on LS?). More compression= more power. It wouldn't cost you that much to do all the work if you had a half a brain, a set of tools and a helms manual.
Btw wtf is a twoit? Learn how to spell and build engines correctly, kthx.
PS- FYI I have a 1.9 LS with I/H/E, 403s, Exedy stage one/ITR flywheel, GSR trans. So I'm not just making this up. When I get the P30 pistons in and get a good tune, I'll be making more power than your build for roughly half the cost. Who's the "twoit" now?
Modified by shutupnskate at 7:20 PM 9/21/2006
why would they make them if they are completely worthless?
read this graph and you'll see the difference it makes it peaks at 5700rpm
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=275681
AS I STATED AT THE TOP DON'T ANSWER IF YOU DON'T KNOW!
wow i can tell you probably don't have any of this stuff done to your own car... ok so 140 for pistons, then labour to rip apart the block hone the block and if you want to do everything right, rings, wrist pins, valve seals, just to name a few, and while its out you might as well get the crank lighten balanced and micropolished, then more labour so it doesn't end up costing 140, you twoit</TD></TR></TABLE>
They make those manifolds for high-revving ITR/GSR applications. Not for LS's. A turbo GSR has nothing to do with a bolt-on LS. Go read up on Skunk2s website it says their b-series manifolds are designed to make power over stock from 7k-10k RPMs. In fact just search around H-T and you will see that anyone who puts a Skunk2 Manifold on an LS is thoroughly flamed.
As for b16 pistons, you're a complete dumbass for wasting money on a fuel rail, fpr, and many of your other worthless parts ( stage 4 clutch on a bolt-on LS?). More compression= more power. It wouldn't cost you that much to do all the work if you had a half a brain, a set of tools and a helms manual.
Btw wtf is a twoit? Learn how to spell and build engines correctly, kthx.
PS- FYI I have a 1.9 LS with I/H/E, 403s, Exedy stage one/ITR flywheel, GSR trans. So I'm not just making this up. When I get the P30 pistons in and get a good tune, I'll be making more power than your build for roughly half the cost. Who's the "twoit" now?
Modified by shutupnskate at 7:20 PM 9/21/2006
#14
Re: (shutupnskate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shutupnskate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They make those manifolds for high-revving ITR/GSR applications. Not for LS's. A turbo GSR has nothing to do with a bolt-on LS. Go read up on Skunk2s website it says their b-series manifolds are designed to make power over stock from 7k-10k RPMs. In fact just search around H-T and you will see that anyone who puts a Skunk2 Manifold on an LS is thoroughly flamed.
As for b16 pistons, you're a complete dumbass for wasting money on a fuel rail, fpr, and many of your other worthless parts ( stage 4 clutch on a bolt-on LS?). More compression= more power. It wouldn't cost you that much to do all the work if you had a half a brain, a set of tools and a helms manual.
Btw wtf is a twoit? Learn how to spell and build engines correctly, you illiterate shitstain on the fabric of American society.
PS- FYI I have a 1.9 LS with I/H/E, 403s, Exedy stage one/ITR flywheel, GSR trans. So I'm not just making this up. When I get the P30 pistons in and get a good tune, I'll be making more power than your build for roughly half the cost. Who's the "twoit" now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Your right, alot of the stuff i have is just for show.
2. i'm not american, i'm canadian
3. skunk2's website doesn't say anything about the whole 7-10 rpm range
4. i'm not saying pistons is a bad idea, i'm doing that next year, and i'm doing it right, but the point of this thread was to find out which aftermarket tb will match up to my im... get it, got it...good
They make those manifolds for high-revving ITR/GSR applications. Not for LS's. A turbo GSR has nothing to do with a bolt-on LS. Go read up on Skunk2s website it says their b-series manifolds are designed to make power over stock from 7k-10k RPMs. In fact just search around H-T and you will see that anyone who puts a Skunk2 Manifold on an LS is thoroughly flamed.
As for b16 pistons, you're a complete dumbass for wasting money on a fuel rail, fpr, and many of your other worthless parts ( stage 4 clutch on a bolt-on LS?). More compression= more power. It wouldn't cost you that much to do all the work if you had a half a brain, a set of tools and a helms manual.
Btw wtf is a twoit? Learn how to spell and build engines correctly, you illiterate shitstain on the fabric of American society.
PS- FYI I have a 1.9 LS with I/H/E, 403s, Exedy stage one/ITR flywheel, GSR trans. So I'm not just making this up. When I get the P30 pistons in and get a good tune, I'll be making more power than your build for roughly half the cost. Who's the "twoit" now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Your right, alot of the stuff i have is just for show.
2. i'm not american, i'm canadian
3. skunk2's website doesn't say anything about the whole 7-10 rpm range
4. i'm not saying pistons is a bad idea, i'm doing that next year, and i'm doing it right, but the point of this thread was to find out which aftermarket tb will match up to my im... get it, got it...good
#17
Re: (Dartanian)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dartanian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you list GSR injectors and cat as mods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, i just did a copy and paste from one of my other sites...
sorry, i just did a copy and paste from one of my other sites...
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