<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR_YEAGER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not exactly true. i have lowered a BUNCH of hondas and i always use an impact, but when i did my gsr i used all 5 of my impacts and it never budged. i finally turned my big impact up so hight it snapped it off. i have tried most on the tricks stated but the best for me was to sawsall the bolts off and drill all the bolts out w/the drill press. if you are carefull enough, and step up in bit size. you will remove enough material that you can use a center punch, and knock it out. but i promise if it is REALLY seized, you can definetly NOT drive it out w/a hammer before drilling.

honestly if i had it to do over again id just replace the lca, w/the time it took to drill out all 6 i could have worked at my real for enough money to just buy new lighter ones </TD></TR></TABLE>

well I don't know, I was using a 12V electric impact that mustered up about 1 impact per second when I first lowered my car when it had about 105K miles on it... it was slow, but it eventually backed the bolts out. Now I did soak the bolts in PB Blaster beforehand, just to be safe, but nowadays I never even bother with that. I just zip em straight off w/ my Ingersoll-Rand impact, no sweat.

 

I just got done finishing my rear breaks and i just notice my left bolt was broken too. Question, does any body know what harms would be caused by not fixing it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghost face &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got done finishing my rear breaks and i just notice my left bolt was broken too. Question, does any body know what harms would be caused by not fixing it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your suspension could fall off and cause some umm... lets call them handling problems...

 

my titanium ingersol rand 1/2" impact will break loose any damn bolt. I recommend everyone to invest in one. This thing will pay for itself in saved time and frustration

 

got a lower control arm off of a 96 integra, will there be any trouble fitting it into a 2001 or is it the same

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRiWISH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your suspension could fall off and cause some umm... lets call them handling problems... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing will happen, the bolt wouldn't budge w/ tools in the first place (before the bolt head broke off) so I can assure you driving it won't cause the bolt to come out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kupras &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My question is, where can I order this part from and am I able to have it taken out myself or will I have to bring it somewhere to get it done?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my rear lca driver side shock bushing seized up as well, and after trying other ways of working around it...I finally had to give in.
Jus went to the dealership, and picked this up:


there are three bolts/bushings on the LCA, the outside two are listed as #19 with a part# 52365-SK7-A02
but the one you need is #24 with the stock number listed above in the pic (52622-SK7-A02)
had to pay $22 at the dealership today

 

well this post keeps going and im sorry to annoy you guys but i got the control arm and now i ran into another problem.......the abs sensor(i think) snapped and now my abs light is on....is this an easy fix? it looks like this part of the wire that was cracked can be unplugged....or would i have to replace the entire back wire on the car

 

I think you're lucky on your car. I ran into the same issue on my car 3 or 4 years back. Recently installed shock, springs and a rear sway bar on my buddy's 2001 Integra GS. We soaked everything or 2 weeks and still that shock bolt wouldn't budge. Used a pretty new IR 2135Ti (1000lb-ft in reverse) on shop air and that bolt wouldn't do anything. Just went at it with a sawsall and put a new bushing in. When we went onto the sway bar install, funny thing is the inner control arm bolt came out without any fuss, easy as pie.

To the original poster..


#25 or 26 is what you want... I would try repairing the damage before replacing the wire since it's pretty pricy. Strip back the insulation, repair the damaged wires with solder and either heat shink or electrical tape the section.