what's the normal price for a compression test? i was quoted at pep boys for $72.95, but that seems high. dont know though.

 

Find a buddy with a compression tester then look in the haynes manual and it shows you how to do it...real simple and btw thats WAY to high.

 

Autozone........$24.95........and do it yourself. Very simple. Search for it and you shal receive!

 

Yes, do it yourself. I did mine by myself for the first time and had 0 problems. The hardest part is removing your spark plugs.

 

yeah man its easy if you do it urself. make sure engine is warm, remove spark plugs, disable ignition system and let it click 4-6 times per cylinder

 

i c thx for the help. imma go research and do it myself. wish me luck =P

 

Not much to it bro, here's a how-to for ya.

1. Run engine until it gets to normal running temp.
2. Remove spark plugs (Be careful)
3. Remove ECU fuse (in the under-hood fuse box, make sure u have ur stereo security code)
4. Put compression tester hose into a cylinder and crank the motor 6 or so times by turning the key like you would normally start the car.
5. Record the results and do the next cylinder.
6. Put anti-seize on plugs and put them back in.

Be careful when taking out the plugs and when you are putting in the compression tester hose. You do not want to strip the threads on your head or snap a plug and have half a spark plug stuck in there.

Any other questions feel free to IM or PM me.

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com

Has instructions on how to do the compression check and many other helpful DIY for a G3 Integra.

 

thx, im enlightened now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECorona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not much to it bro, here's a how-to for ya.

1. Run engine until it gets to normal running temp.
2. Remove spark plugs (Be careful)
3. Remove ECU fuse (in the under-hood fuse box, make sure u have ur stereo security code)
4. Put compression tester hose into a cylinder and crank the motor 6 or so times by turning the key like you would normally start the car.
5. Record the results and do the next cylinder.
6. Put anti-seize on plugs and put them back in.

Be careful when taking out the plugs and when you are putting in the compression tester hose. You do not want to strip the threads on your head or snap a plug and have half a spark plug stuck in there.

Any other questions feel free to IM or PM me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good stuff

 

you also dont want to use an adapter when you dont have to. especially when the adapter was designed with the collective intelligence of a roomful of feces throwing monkeys. the adapter that i used was not reversed threaded so when i tried to unscrew the tester (with adapter on the end) there was less friction on the adapter-to-tester then there was adapter-to-park plug threads. so phsysics being a cruel mother, the adapter stayed put in my cyl head. took several hours (with many attempts and several pre-noon beers) to finally call a local shop and have them take it out. bastards said they had to charge me for a half hour because that was the shop min. then they harrased me on choosing to mod MY car. apparently honda/acuras last for a long time until we "kids" start messing with them. AAA aproved my ***.

sorry for the long post, it kinda of hits a nerve. be careful

 

Instead of removing the fuse, I unplug the injector clips and the distributor connector.

 

Thats a good tip....DONT use the adapter if you dont have to.

Compression tests are cake...just dont overtighten the plugs or the tester. It needs to be firm, not tight. I checked mine the other day with a lot of fear...over 40k of boost, ~111k on the motor and perfect 220 all across! Woohoo!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notsure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you also dont want to use an adapter when you dont have to. especially when the adapter was designed with the collective intelligence of a roomful of feces throwing monkeys. the adapter that i used was not reversed threaded so when i tried to unscrew the tester (with adapter on the end) there was less friction on the adapter-to-tester then there was adapter-to-park plug threads. so phsysics being a cruel mother, the adapter stayed put in my cyl head. took several hours (with many attempts and several pre-noon beers) to finally call a local shop and have them take it out. bastards said they had to charge me for a half hour because that was the shop min. then they harrased me on choosing to mod MY car. apparently honda/acuras last for a long time until we "kids" start messing with them. AAA aproved my ***.

sorry for the long post, it kinda of hits a nerve. be careful</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true, I found this out the hard way. It took me awhile to get the adapter piece out but thank god I didnt tighten it alot or I would have been screwed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Instead of removing the fuse, I unplug the injector clips and the distributor connector.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i do

 

I personally take out the fuel injection relay from to the left of the interior fuse box but it's easier to explain how to remove the ecu fuse.