tekstyle

Hi there, I am having some problems with my 2000 integra gsr manual transmission. about a year ago, I noticed that the car doesn't crank every now and then. it first started in the middle of summer and it got worse. i replaced the starter twice and since then, it still had problems. unable to start the car via the ignition switch. i figured it can't be the starter again since i was on the 3rd starter, so I bypassed the car's wiring and connected the starter solenoid directly to the (+) battery terminal whenever I need to start the car. that solved the problem until a month ago when it would have issues again. i later changed out the wires for the bypass with a heavier gauge wire and it solved the problem. on to the next issue now.

recenty, it would stall whenever the car's RPM drops below 1000rpm, like when at idle. while driving and the car is moving, the car will sometimes feel like it stalls (no fuel syndrome) for a split second and starts back up again. I can see my radio blink too like it turned off and on. the reason why it doesnt stall while moving is because the momentum of the wheels is essentially push starting the car back up every time it 'stalls". This lead me to think it was my ignition switch going out. I replaced the ignition switch and still has the same problem. i still can't start it with the key, but i can start it with my bypass switch and it starts very strong so i don't think the battery is a problem. I also replaced the main relay too and reflowed all the solder joints.

when it does stall out. i need to give it gas and a few seconds of cranking it in order to get it to start up again. this is very weird.

to summarize:
car's ignition cuts in and out which causes it to stall at a stop, and sudden stall/start back up if moving.
replaced, cat with CA legal cat, second O2 sensor, fuel filter, OEM ignition switch, new dizzy, spark plugs, battery, fuel pump.
battery is at 12.5v.
main relay replaced with used and reflowed solder joints.

what else could it be?


update:
turned out not the main relay. i replaced the rotor cap, dissy cap, battery, spark plugs as well. previously replaced cat with CA legal cat, second O2 sensor, fuel filter, OEM ignition switch. the car starts fine for the most part. when it does run, it runs GREAT! then it would randomly but RARELY stall when it's normally cold or 2-3 mins from the time i start the car in the morning. it never stalled when the car is warmed up yet (knock on wood). then when i try to crank it, it sounds like misfire and sometimes i need to hold the key in the starter position for a second or 1.5 sec before it cranks. when it cranks, it is strong tho. then it would die again. i need to apply the gas pedal to get it started reving it to 2-3k rpm. there will also be the smell of gas associated with it. when it runs again, it runs and feels like normal.


update: 5/1/2015:
replaced fuel pump, new dizzy as well. problem is still there. running out of idea's what else can it be?

wunfstgsr

Check your alternator first sounds like its dying. Also check your Map sensor and engine temp sensor Map is on top of the throttle and egine temp sensor is on the side of the head under the vtec solenoid.

tekstyle

can you explain why a bad alternator or a bad engine temp sensor can give me the problem i am faced with? i am not disputing your professional opinion, but i just want to understand for my own knowledge. i understand how a MAP sensor can affect it. thank you!

wunfstgsr

Actually kinda forget what i said i was tired lol, I would think first regarding your starter issue it just might be a bad ground!

"recenty, it would stall whenever the car's RPM drops below 1000rpm, like when at idle. while driving and the car is moving, the car will sometimes feel like it stalls (no fuel syndrome) for a split second and starts back up again. I can see my radio blink too like it turned off and on sounds like"

This issue sounds like a bad alternator it sounds like its dying and cutting out, or a /dirty IACV, located on the back side of the intake manifold, when there dirty you can have idle issues, you can try cleaning it out with brake cleaner let it dry and start it up. Also could be a weak spark issue look into the distributor rotor it might be worn out and not making good contact with the cap.

"when it does stall out. i need to give it gas and a few seconds of cranking it in order to get it to start up again. this is very weird."

This sounds like a bad engine temp switch usually occurs with cold start issues and you have to hold the gas down a few sec to get it to idle and run.

my summary is check your contacts on the starter ground sometimes they can be dirty and not get good contact, clean out the IACV just unbolt the two bolts and pull it up as much as you can and spray it with brake parts cleaner and drain it out let it dry for a few secs and bolt it back up its easier to take out the coolant hose thats attached but you will get some fluid spilled out so its up to you, double check the rotor in the dizzy just take off the cap and inspect the rotor if its really worn and or loose replace it its very cheap any way.

tamboo

just put new brushes in my alt since i'm a cheap bastard.
used a zip tie to hold the brushes down to install it on the shaft.

1995 ACURA INTEGRA Alternator / Generator Brush

test all the ignition bits as well since theyre 100% guaranteed to buy the farm at some point. i have 2 coils and 3 icm in the glove box and a extra crappy brand x dizz in the trunk lol.

Starting Problems

tekstyle

I am checking my alt right now. Battery at 12.51v and after pulling the negative terminal with car running, the alternator is at 14.56v... seems like the alt is fine. Will have to check the main relay next with another one. Will a obdii scan tool tell me engine temp?

tekstyle

finally figured it out:
first off. i removed the dizzy cap and found that the rotor was completely incinerated along with the inside contacts on the cap. the rotor lock screw fell out. i have since replaced them both, no problem. however, that was not what's causing the sudden stalls.

turns out it was a faulty main relay. i thought it was the solder joints that needed to be reflowed, but i just replaced it completely and it works like new again!.

it was just amazing the car was still running even with a destroyed dizzy rotor and cap

wunfstgsr

lol so i was right about one thing haha good to hear its fixed!

tekstyle

problem is back. after 3 days

cetcivic

My brother is having similar issues with his 98

tekstyle

changed the coil few days ago. did not solve the problem.

the car would stall out when the car is warmed. it still stalls out when it's cold but just less so. when it does stall, the starter would crank, but it won't start unless I step on the throttle. this lead me to think maybe it was a fuel problem but it just doesn't seem like it's right because the car does not have signs of a weak fuel pump. there's no weakening of the acceleration at WOT or high RPM and there is the click of the main relay along with the the humming of the fuel pump.

tekstyle

bump. updated problem. new dizzy, new fuel pump. problem persist. anyone can chim in on this?

K20.ek

Try checkin ur valve lash and timing

tekstyle

valve lash checked. no problem.
can you explain why timing can cause random stalls?

tony_2018

Ect sensor probably. Any cel codes after it dies?

tekstyle

No cel. I haven't thought about the ect sensor. Ill test it tonight